Engine Install Problem!

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Thanks everyone for replying!

I got in contact with the ace mechanic I mentioned earlier. He said something like you have to fit the bushing to the input shaft. I didn't get it so he said to bring the bushing and he will show me. He mentioned that he has a old input shaft that I can use I guess. I'll find out how and why.

I pullled the transmission out today when I got off of work.

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Can't stress enough about checking your bellhousing alignment, especially given your symptoms & the bell you are using. Installing or removing the bushing is really no big deal, I prefer using an old input shaft to verify fit rather than using the pilot tools. The bellhousing alignment basically insures the bellhousing & crank centerlines line up. If they don't line up a number of problems can occur including difficulty installing the trans. You need to mount a fixture to the flywheel & check the runout on the bellhousing hole using a dial indicator. Any service manual should tell you how to do this, its a PITA but must be done. One last thing, the bearing retainer MUST be a tight fit in the bellhousing hole for everything to work properly. Good luck!
 
a real simple bushing puller .....a tap just a little bigger than the shaft and a piece of all thread or a long thread bolt the same size......tap the bushing ,then run the bolt or all thread in and as it hits the end of the crank it will push the bushing up the bolt ...keep turning untill bushing is out.simple cheap and works every time .....
the tap you need is called a bottoming tap ...it has very little taper on the starting end...some times i just keep turning the tap also, it will do the same thing as long as the bushing comes out easy... taps break easy so be carefull doing it the last way.
 
I went by the friend mechanic of mine and he had a tool he let me borrow. The bushing went in with no trouble and is in better condition than when I installed the first one with a socket. LOL!

In the picture the transmission is all the way in the motor and is hitting the back of the crankshaft. I took a measurement from the motor to the transmission and it is 6 3/4" .... the bellhousing is 7 13/16" so that means the transmission input shaft has to come back out a little bit over a 1" which is super.

The mechanic and I talked about the situation and he really thinks I had it almost together. But the clutch was off enough to not let it fall into place. The idea of leaving the pressure plate loose until the transmission is in place sounds very inviting.

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Its in!

Put it all together then tightened the pressure plate. Jacked the car in the rear, dropped the motor in, jacked up on the trans, set it down on the motor mounts, relieved all the pressure on the lift.

Did it by myself and I'm tired.

Thanks everyone for helping my out!
 
Ohhh, Looky what I get to look forward to in the somewhat not too distant future.
I learned much from this.

Thanks for going through it all for me Ax'...LOL!
 
What did you need the jack for? Just set it on your chest and bench press it in. lol I used to that when I was young and dumb. Glad you got it together. Jeff
 
Ohhh, Looky what I get to look forward to in the somewhat not too distant future.
I learned much from this.

Thanks for going through it all for me Ax'...LOL!

Your welcome. :thebirdm: just'kidding

I tell you the truth I would have spent the rest of my life trying to install the motor with the trans in the car. Even with the clutch, pressure plate and bellhousing mounted to the motor I had to work the trans in until it meshed up with the bellhousing. Its a tight fit. If it did go together with the trans still in the car the motor would had to be aligned perfect and I mean perfect.

It might would have been different with a automatic trans.
 
sure loks like an A body transmision looking at the shifter location
 
Glad to hear it all finally worked out mullinax95.

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My 2c's. Get rid of the bushing, and put a roller bering in from a magnum motor. Lots easyer on the input shaft. Should be in stock at local dealer.
 
good idea on the freezer trick,,,

while the bushing is out,, put the bell housing back on,,bolt up the tranny,, if it goes all the way in,, its your bushing that is the problem,, if it does not go all the way in measure the depth of the crank hole and the length of the input shaft,,

also there are 2 different pilot bushings for mopar,,some cranks have a bigger hole,, i dont remember the demensions,,, but i think they are very close,, the difference on the bushing would be the outer diameter,,if you are pounding in the bigger bushing to the smaller hole,, it will deform the bushing causing it to be out of round,,or have a burr , or just plain be a tighter fit,,,

but i do have a dumb question,, since ive never removed a pilot bushing,, how did you get it out?? did you split it??? if you did you may need to deburr the crank hole before installing the new one,,

Old school tip

Pack the entire pilot bearing and crank shaft hole with axle grease (no air pockets). Find a shaft the same size as the tranny input shaft, insert it and beat it with a hammer. The old pilot bearing will pop right out.
 
Know you got it all together & in but one last time, did you check bellhousing alignment? Usually aftermarket bells are WAY off! You could be looking at replacing your pilot bushing soon again, as well as wear to trans bearings, hard shifting, & clutch chatter among other things.

http://www.priveye.com/images/lakewood.htm
 
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