manuel or automatico?
Engine of barn find-steps to evaluate/save
- Thread starter packrat56
- Start date
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manuel or automatico?
1- make sure it's in neutral
2- jump under there and pop off the trans inspection window and while somebody bars the motor over, see if there is something broken, hitting or amiss.
2- jump under there and pop off the trans inspection window and while somebody bars the motor over, see if there is something broken, hitting or amiss.
OK,..... so it's not the starter, or frozen valves, & You can rotate the mill "several times" clockwise......but not once counterclockwise.
Questions;
1) If You stop turning the engine in a different position, does the amount of rotation before locking change, or is it the same each time?
2) You stated it turned smoothly & quietly, so no light scratching/scraping, clinking/ticks at all..correct?
3) When it stops w/a clunk, turning slowly, does it feel like it binds up..or an abrupt/rock hard stop?
At this point, I'd pull the trans shield, & give one of the flexplate ears/screw/converter lugs a squirt of bright paint to line it back up. Then take the converter screws out & push the converter back & make sure it's free from the crank, then repeat the crank roll & see what You've got.
OK:
All the valves open and close as they should. Multiple rotations, no scraping sounds at all. I do hear, while rotating, the sound of maybe a lifter falling and bouncing slightly once in a while, prolly sticky and maybe normal?
Counterclockwise, binds at the same spot every time and the "clunk" really does seem to be from the back, most likely trans or converter.. SEE PIC: almost looks like this is hitting inside? I am soaking the cables/shift buttons with silicone. I've no idea what gear it might actually be in. Should it rotate backwards if its in gear?
All the valves open and close as they should. Multiple rotations, no scraping sounds at all. I do hear, while rotating, the sound of maybe a lifter falling and bouncing slightly once in a while, prolly sticky and maybe normal?
Counterclockwise, binds at the same spot every time and the "clunk" really does seem to be from the back, most likely trans or converter.. SEE PIC: almost looks like this is hitting inside? I am soaking the cables/shift buttons with silicone. I've no idea what gear it might actually be in. Should it rotate backwards if its in gear?
Look at the 6th rocker arm back. The pushrod is out.
It sure looks like it's out in that picture I was talking about.
que es esto?
Nevermind. I blew the picture up. What I saw was a head bolt.
Looks like the others, que piensa?
pushrod is tight in the ball/cup?
it looks like it mighten maybe just be chilling out there?
it looks like it mighten maybe just be chilling out there?
¿Podemos mantener esto en inglés, muchachos? Algunas personas no son tan geniosas como nosotros. Gracias.
jajajajaja. claro que sí puedes.
back to the mystery clunk: well... it only happens in CCW rotation, right? well good thing a slant turns clockwise then. pour some gas in and light 'er off!
if it's coming from the bellhousing area literally, that clunk could be anything: an old mud dauber nest, nuts a squirrel stashed in there, diamonds from a heist in the late 60's, a rock that got kicked up in there from bombing around in a fiend, a small knife used to slay the man that killed my father in cold blood that hot and sticky july night.
anyway, i'd yoink the plugs and throw some penetrating oil down the bores and then get that thing turning over to see if it's making any big ugly noises-- you'll know right away-- and do a quick and dirty finger compression test to determine if i should waste any more time attempting to get the darn thing running.
In My 36+ year career pro-wrenching, I've seen multiple dozens of broken rods that didn't go through the block, and they'll do exactly this...they lay against the block left bank or rear bank, rotating CW the throw pushes it out of the way & it clinks when it falls back once clear, but turn it CCW & the throw pins it to the block & stops dead...every time....in the same spot.
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
See post #17
Ja, now that evidence is pointing there, I figured a little explanation was due.....
Pull the plugs & start at the back, put a length of 3/16" brake tubing in #6 plug hole as 'upright' as poss., then turn the engine CW....does it move, if yes move towards the front 1×1...if You get a no,...well then You KNOW....no Fuke-arown.
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Well shoooot... I tried the "hose in the cylinder" test. The front 5 seem to show up and down movement, BUT that last cylinder, in the back, seems to be staying in the same place. The hose, on cylinder rotation, jiggles a little, but that could be a valve moving it. How difficult is a rebuild on these? For all I know the auto trans could be trashed as well.. Body has plenty of rust to fix. At what point is it just not worth dumping money into?
Folks practically give Slantys away stock, the problem is the proximity of the parties usually, & the timing. It's worth throwing a pick-up stock mill in for what they go for, to make it a runner, the only thing to watch for is any '68&^ crank needs a spacer ring to center the smaller '67& down torque converter's smaller hub nose. They pop up here all the time, & FB-MP, from free to $$$ depending. Look back through the Mechanical Parts for Sale forum, & use the search function there as well.
P.S. That engine would've had a road-draft tube, not a PCV system originally in that car, so either the engine or the valve cover & related PCV components were changed out.
Just saw a 67 /6 motor with 904 Trans, running, for $400, here
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