Engine reseal suggestions (possibly cam too)

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Carlb87

Carlb87

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So I just yanked the motor out of my duster. It had a bad leak on the backside of the engine. Among other minor leaks. I'm going to buy a full gasket kit for it was thinking felpro unless you guy's suggest a different brand. Also I was wondering if I should go ahead and replace the head gasket while I have it out or should I leave it alone? It runs fine.If I pull the head I was thinking I might do a cam swap. I'd like a little more agressive cam something with a little more lope that can run in a mostly stock engine. It's a 225 with 2.5" exhaust. I do have a 4 barrel manifold that will eventually get put on. Any suggestions on profile and has anyone had any problems with the comp cams recently? I know they used to eat up one of the gears.
 
if the head gasket is not causing a problem, perhaps leave it alone,

however, since you are taking the engine out to do a re-seal,, now would be a great time to pull the head and do a cut on it to raise compression,, since the head is off, also a great time to pull the valves, do some minor porting and get a nice multi angle valve grind..

since you are pulling the timing cover to properly re seal the oil pan, also a great time to replace the timing chain,, with the timing chain off, also a great time to pull the cam, send it to Oregon Grinders for a re grind,,,

since the motor is out, great time to replace the water and fuel pumps, as well as the motor mounts...

and the list goes on..

may be best for you to get a firm $ amount that at this point in time you can stick in the motor.. ahead of the 4 bbl,, the best performance upgrade is to raise the compression,,
cc the head, measure piston recession, use an online calculator,, get then static up to 8.5, you will still run regular gas. Addressing the compression ratio is the best 1st performance move on a slant six.

for safety sake,, I would change out motor mounts and address any brake (front drums) issues next.
 
my68barracuda said:
if the head gasket is not causing a problem, perhaps leave it alone,

however, since you are taking the engine out to do a re-seal,, now would be a great time to pull the head and do a cut on it to raise compression,, since the head is off, also a great time to pull the valves, do some minor porting and get a nice multi angle valve grind..

since you are pulling the timing cover to properly re seal the oil pan, also a great time to replace the timing chain,, with the timing chain off, also a great time to pull the cam, send it to Oregon Grinders for a re grind,,,

since the motor is out, great time to replace the water and fuel pumps, as well as the motor mounts...

and the list goes on..

may be best for you to get a firm $ amount that at this point in time you can stick in the motor.. ahead of the 4 bbl,, the best performance upgrade is to raise the compression,,
cc the head, measure piston recession, use an online calculator,, get then static up to 8.5, you will still run regular gas. Addressing the compression ratio is the best 1st performance move on a slant six.

for safety sake,, I would change out motor mounts and address any brake (front drums) issues next.
Click to expand...

Thanks! that's kind of what I was thinking. And since I won't be taking the head off I won't be opening the can of performance worms that should be done. So im thinking I'll do the reseal minus the head gasket, timing chain, water pump motor mounts and clutch for now.
 
Pull the head, get it shaved (.040-.060 ballpark-really should measure things first).
If you do nothing else, raise the compression ratio. It will be the best money you spend.
 
Replace the head gasket for sure; the original is a metal shim type, and there are a couple of coolant holes in the head and block that get blocked off by the head gasket. Over all these years, the metal shim gasket usually corrodes out at these points and the coolant flow starts to bypass the full flow route to the back of the block and through the whole head rear-to-front. The result is degraded cooling in the rear of the head and block.

Once you do the head gasket, unless you find a NOS metal shim type, then the newer head gasket will be thicker and so the compression ratio will go down a bit. So that is another reason to shave the head.

Timing chain replacement is a must; they really stretch and retard cam timing to a point where the performance is really dogged down. No new info on Comp that I am aware of with these cams, so I'd stick with the more tried and true from Oregon or Doug Dutra.

Felpro is good unless you want to find a thinner metal shim head gasket. Pay a lot of attention to the rear seal area installation.
 
yep, one thing always leads to another. like said, get a plan ( blueprint) to ful fill your GOALS, don't just randomly do this and that to cam, compression, value springs etc. and figure how many $$ you want to spend and how long it will be off the road!

sorat like body/paint/ get that done and then all that chrome/stainless/bumpers look out of place, then that average looking interiuor looks out of place, then the wheels/tires etc ha!
 
As for cam replacement, I found lately that Hughes Engines has several cams listed for the Slant Six. Just a FYI.
Remember it takes just a snow flake to start a avalanche.........
 
Food for thought, replacing a head gasket on a good running motor can also cause or open up problems if the work isnt meticulous.
 
Thanks everyone. That is a lot of good information. I guess I'll have to figure out a budget and go from there. Originally it was just going to be to fix the massive oil leak which looks love it was caused by a ba pan gasket. Went and changed the oil and it wouldn't even hold the full capacity atleast a quart just leaked out the back. I just don't want to go overboard on it and not be able to afford to put it all back together for a while. So it looks like there is a couple votes in both directions for replacing the head gasket and not fixing something that isn't broke so I'll look into what it'll cost to get the head milled and see how that'll fit in my budget and go from there. Thanks again for the suggestions
 
Yep, replace the head gasket while it's out, even if you don't spring for the head milling a new gasket is good peace of mind. Just remember if you go with an .040 composition gasket it will lower compression from the stock .020 steel shim gasket. Also make sure your breather and pcv/hose are not clogged and functioning properly or you will start pushing oil past your newly sealed engine.
 
Are there still .020 gaskets available? Or will I have to use a thicker one? I did a quick Google search but it wasn't pulling anything up. But I'll look again when I get some more time
 
I found a NOS .020" steel shim gasket from a source in Canada about 1.5 years back at a price of around $50. I think it was Gasket City.
 
NOS thin steel head gaskets are out there - I got one from a .org member not too long ago.
 
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