Yep...all good.
Engine shake and shimmy...
- Thread starter nodemon
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This ones a 72..Had it 4 years now and never driven it.. Hopefully soon.I love the car by the way. I had a '72 Demon... once upon a time
Have not put a vacuum gauge on it.. All that blow by...could it be from something not so serious..?
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I pulled each plug at the cap.. some had no change, and some made noticeable change...unfortunately, I'm too much of a novice to understand the difference .
It's also hard to tell, but the plug cables don't look like they're correct either, at the dizzy...but this phone doesn't have the best screen..
Well, you could put a pcv valve on it and see if that calms it down.
I agree! They look out of order.
dano
Evil Handy Man
If it has any cam at all its going to want more than 10 deg. Try 12-16. If you pulled a wire and no change then its a dead or weak cylinder. Whats the age or story on the plug wires and plugs?
pull.the.plugs.
this will tell you if you've got a dead hole or one that's just down.
i also agree with @RustyRatRod on 100% confirming that your firing order is correct and all the components are up to snuff: wires properly seated, cap on correctly, not cracked, rotor is good, etx.
but this could be any number of things, getting a read on the plugs will tell you a whole bunch real quick and should set you on a path or at least give you a hint which direction to head in.
this will tell you if you've got a dead hole or one that's just down.
i also agree with @RustyRatRod on 100% confirming that your firing order is correct and all the components are up to snuff: wires properly seated, cap on correctly, not cracked, rotor is good, etx.
but this could be any number of things, getting a read on the plugs will tell you a whole bunch real quick and should set you on a path or at least give you a hint which direction to head in.
This ^^. Some had no change and some had noticeable change. There is your issue. Each cylinder working properly will change/lower the engines rpm's some when unplugged. A dead or misfiring cylinder will not, or not as much. Now, mark those that don't make a difference and see what's the problem. Faulty wires? Spark plugs? Bent distributor shaft causing the pickup to hit or gap too far?
Hard for me to see, but it looks as if your plug wires are wrong. Correct will be 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 clockwise on the cap. Driver side cylinders from front of car to back will be 1-3-5-7 and passenger side will be 2-4-6-8
Like the one here on the left
Like the one here on the left
I double and triple checked, and then checked again... They're in correct order.. I wish it had been something that simple...and I guess now, I'm more concerned with the blow-by issue and what's causing that...unless it's connected in some way..
I have a classic car master mechanic buddy coming over tomorrow.. He too was questioning the firing order, distributor etc... also wants to do a compression test and bringing another carburetor...he was concerned with mine running so rich...He said that can cause an issue with burning the oil out of the cylinders...I could be wrong, but I think that's what he said..
Thanks for all your, and others input... I'll update as soon as I know something, unless I decide to just find the nearest bridge and jump...
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I could be wrong but, #1 on TDC, compression stroke, the rotor should point to the FRONT LEFT (Drivers side) intake manifold bolt, & that's where #1 plug wire should be, then, clockwise from the front of the car, standing at the grill area, it's 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2. Bring the engine up on #1 TDC of the compression stroke, pull the cap off & see where the rotor is pointing. It should point directly at that intake bolt. If not, the distributor is not in correctly & the oil pump drive shaft may need to be clocked right. If so, pull the distributor, look inside the hole & see where the slot on the oil pump drive shaft is pointing. It also should point directly at the same intake bolt. If not, just use a large flat head screwdriver, twist & pull shaft to clock it to the right position, button it all up re-do the wires in the correct order. See if that fixes it. It doesn't cost anything but your time.
I'm not sure where You found that diagram panel, but it should be digitally run over by a cyber truck, & set on fire....lol.
Yes Nicoledart, Proper spark plug order is with the number one plug wire facing (rotor) straight ahead, and his is not in the correct placement. That's when the #1 piston is at TDC and the slot in the Distributor Drive Gear is pointing at that first left intake manifold bolt.
I can not see the plug wires very well, but it sure looks like #8 wire is not where it's supposed to be. Having said that, we all know that you can point the rotor in any direction you want as long as the spark plug wires correspond. You just don't have your rotor and plug wires in the normal place. Hopefully your friend can get you back on track.
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What did you use for exhaust manifold gaskets? You can not use 340 gaskets on a 318. Or is the leak at the pipe? Your exhaust gaskets should be for a 273/318. Sometimes you have to go back to '66 or so for certain parts, the parts counter guys don't know that about 318's. Have had this issue several times when I rebuilt my 318. You have to know what you are looking for.
It's a 71 318 with "j" heads and 340 exhaust manifolds. I didn't put gaskets on, as I've read they're usually not needed and didn't come with them from factory. I bought the manifolds and exhaust from a guy that had it on his Demon.. He did have gaskets with it but I didn't use them. Can you reuse gaskets..? I bought some a long while back, but damn, they're really thick.
Will be doing that tonight.
That sounds like the nature of the cam you used. I run steel mounts in every build if its not a stock engine,
Will try setting a more advanced timing tomorrow...not surecof the cam specs, but seems pretty healthy. Compression test wasn't too encouraging.. 105 was lowest and the highest was 135.
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