Engine shake and shimmy...
- Thread starter nodemon
- Start date
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If the 'low' cyl corresponded to the cyls that made no difference when the plug lead was removed, then that cyl is a problem. This is not a carb problem. It could be a stuck lifter [ sitting a long time ] or lifter pre-load...or wiped cam lobe.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
Maybe post all the cylinders compression.......
1-? 2-?
3-? 4-?
5-? 6-?
7-? 8-?
Curious, is the "105" at the exhaust leak?
Out of the box, you could watch the running engine in complete dark for possible spark leak.
IMO, new plug wires, plugs, cap, or rotor, don't always mean they are free of defect, especially this day and age of available parts.
dano
Evil Handy Man
If the cam has some overlap you'll get low compression numbers.
MOPAROFFICIAL
If it has tits, it's a liabilititty.
Don't drive it with an exhaust leak at the head, that's nasty. You don't want to burn the valve .....then it will run rough alright.
Start with adjusting the carburetor for idle. You want both idle screws to be out the same amount ,you want to set the throttle blade so that they expose about a square portion of the transfer slot underneath them. What carb is on it and What's the timing set at right now? Also might want to put a vacuum gauge on it and kind of see what the needle is doing and how much vacuum you have.
Here are the numbers...leak is not on same side as 105 psi.
1: 135
3: 125
5: 122
7: 105
2: 128
4: 114
6: 122
8: 124
I give you credit for rolling up your sleeves and going out there and gathering info/trying suggestions. You'll get what you want that way, and learn a ton in the process. Good for you
4spdragtop
Well-Known Member
Use the timing light as a spark tester. Put lead on #1 and watch the pulse. Steady, not steady? Then move to #3, then 5, etc etc. As 318WR said chk reluctor gap, should be 0.008. When checking, also make sure to engage vac canister to ensure the gap stays consistent and reluctor doesn't hit pickup.
By the way our fresh build 340 is at 18* BTDC, but every engine is different.
Good luck.
By the way our fresh build 340 is at 18* BTDC, but every engine is different.
Good luck.
dano
Evil Handy Man
When you check the reluctor gap, check all the points. They vary in length and angle. Use a brass feeler. Make sure you have good grounds too and if your using a Mopar electronic ignition, the case of the box needs to be grounded well.
If those are old department store plug wires, **** can them for some better wires. MSD, Taylor, etc. I've had store box brand wire be bad right out of the box.
If those are old department store plug wires, **** can them for some better wires. MSD, Taylor, etc. I've had store box brand wire be bad right out of the box.
Daves69
Well-Known Member
You could retest that #7 after adding some heavy oil to the cylinder. It may indicate poor ring seal. Appears there's some blow by in the video.
I doubt the compression readings are the excessive shake rattle and roll issue here.
I'm curious to know what you found out about your engine shake, did you fix it? You're doing a very nice job by the way & it's good to ask questions when in doubt. Someone here will know the answer.
WymanV
..you said "member"...
Also nice to know how a story ends.
Haven't figured anything out yet.. I had a really bad exhaust manifold leak, so I put gaskets on...I then proceeded to break one one of the tabs on the manifold.. So, I just today got another manifold delivered...but it's got the heat riser, which I need to get rid of. So may be a bit before I can get back to the shake / blow by issues.
Believe me, I'll be on here whining and crying or celebrating as soon as I know something ...lol
A lot of people say they're a waste and not needed.. I don't know enough about them to know the benefit of having it.. I do seem to remember the one on my Demon back in 1984 made a lot of noise...lol. Maybe it was broken..?
They tend to rattle when the spring wears out. If you don't care about it warming the engine up a little faster, that's all they did really, get rid of it, unless you're doing a full-blown restoration, which I'm pretty sure you're not
Yeah, I was trying to figure out an easy, fast way to hold the flapper open without any real fabrication.. And, in my head I'm doing a full blown resto, but my bank account and skills say otherwise...lol
They reroute some of the exhaust to put heat into the air cleaner to make for better cold engine operation. Certainly not what I'd call necessary, but in colder climates, it might make a difference. If you decide to eliminate it, just give a little extra time to warm up the engine.
Got the pcv and push in breather.
Ok.
Well, you were on my *** to do it... Just making you proud.
On your ***? No, I simply showed you a correct PCV system that you should have already had. And it's still not complete. But I can solve the "on your ***" part real quick.
Are you kidding me..?? I was being sarcastic, messing with you.. Based on your "personality" through all the convos I've had with you and you've had with others, I didn't think you'd get tensed up... Sit down.
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