engine sitting - surface rust

-
S

sharpie

workin' stiff
Joined
Feb 10, 2008
Messages
577
Reaction score
0
Location
Davis, CA
I have had my engine under a Summit engine bag for a couple months now, only working on it when I can get parts for it. Yesterday, I found some rust in one cylinder bore. It turns out, when the garage door was open, a drop of water dripped into the bore. I caught it yesterday (water got in there the day before, it wasn't out of the bag before that) and today bought some WD40 and wiped the rust spots with a microfiber cloth. Pictured is the residual damage from today, after the reddish rust was taken off with the WD40. Is this still rusting?

DSCN3601.jpg


DSCN3596.jpg


DSCN3595.jpg


I can't feel any difference in elevation with my finger, but from what you see, does it look like I will need to hone the bore? I am so strapped for cash right now for the motor that I don't think I could afford another round of machining, though I hear the scotch-brite can hurt the motor if some of the strands get lodged between the piston and the cylinder wall. I definitely don't want to do more damage to the motor, so if there's any other recommendations to clean it up by myself before taking it in for honing, I'd be really appreciative.

For the record, I sprayed every cylinder down with WD40 and wiped it in before putting the bag over it again and sealing it extra-well. Hopefully that will keep the rest from rusting :angry7:
 
Wipe it down with motor oil and let it sit for a few days. Then wipe it clean and see if the pitting is still there. If it is, I'd re-hone the bores.
 
It looks like very superficial surface rust, more like stains, I wouldn't worry about getting that honed.

For sure DO NOT use Scotch Brite, unless you plan on removing the piston and rod.

I would coat the cylinder walls with a heavier oil then WD-40 to protect them, and you should be good.

All the best.
 
I would not use scotch brite pads. Coat it with heavy oil, let it sit for a few days a see what it looks like. You might be ok.
 
I took some WD-40 and very fine steel wool to my surface rust issue and it was worse than that. I have no issues.
I also took a steel tool, it was like an awl, and ran it over the suspect areas of surface rust. If you don't feel anything other than the cross hatch, your preety much good to go.

I coated it well with WD-40 and wrapped it up in Reynolds Palstic Wrap. and then a engine bag. For the last 6 years, it has been sitting and I haven't had an issue. Except maybe getting off my butt to build the damn thing again, LOL!
 
did you turn the engine so the one piston goes down...looks like rust is in between ring and cyl wall..in 1st pic on bottom...
 
Right on Dave, excellent (And stinky) stuff!
 
Thanks for the help, everyone. Today, I first checked the spots with the point of a utility knife. There didn't seem to be any pitting. Then, I rotated the rotating assembly and sprayed each cylinder with WD40 then wiped it all over each cylinder wall. Then, I took 10w40 motor oil, and rotated the rotating assembly again, making sure I got the motor oil all around in the entire length of the cylinder. Finally, I stuck some cling wrap over each deck, covering every cylinder hole, and replaced the engine bag. Hope this does the trick. I know it will prevent anything else from getting in there.
 
WD40 only displaces water,it is not a coating. Coat it with axle grease, then a quick ball hone when ready to assemble.
 
Green, his shortblock is already assembled and the "rust" is not much more than water spots at this point.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top