Engine/Transmission/K-Frame Removal

[PocketAces]

This weekend I finally took the plunge and pulled out my drive train to start the restoration. I pulled it out the bottom, just the way it went in at the factory.

The first step was to build a dolly to support the assembly. I welded it up out of some scrap 2" square tubing I had. I bought the casters years ago at Harbor Freight for a different project and never used them.

The 3/4" threaded rod screws up through the spaces in the K-Frame. There is a nut and large washer above and below which clamp the K-Frame. The rods sit in two nuts welded to the uprights so I can adjust the height to where the car is sitting. At the rear there is an adjustable stand to hold the transmission tail shaft.

I know a lot of folks get by with a movers dolly and some wooden blocks, but this was nice and stable and I can use it to build the assembly back up and install it into the finished car.

 

[PocketAces]

After removing the torsion bars and shocks and diconnecting the brake hoses, I unbolted the upper control arms from the frame.

 

[PocketAces]

To lift the body I used the front bracket from the rotisserie and a cherry picker.

 

[PocketAces]

With the K-Frame unbolted, the body was easy to lift.

 

[PocketAces]

Once the body was lifted high enough, I rolled the entire assembly out the driver's side.

My dolly is only 26" wide but felt stable enough, even considering the weight of the suspension, spindles and drums hanging out to the sides.

The cheap plastic casters were totally inadequate. They didn't want to turn or roll so I had to push a lot harder to get they whole thing moving. Before I start re-assembling I'll definitely be replacing them with stronger casters.

 

[swifter]

yep that's the way I do mine!!!!! Not bad is it???? i will never go from the top!!!! Nice Job--Steve

 

[PocketAces]

I thought it was very cool that I didn't even have to break open the power steering system.

If all I was doing was engine work, I might go the other route. Getting the torsion bars out was a bear and the front end will need realignment.

But for a restoration, no doubt about it, this is the way to go. Putting it back together this way will be even cooler. I can reassemble all this stuff out of the car with easy access. No leaning over the fenders or rolling around under the car.

 

[Denny65GT]

What kind of power steering do you have on that car? was it a factory PS car?

 

[BillGrissom]

His power steering looks factory. The pump is a TRW, which is different than the similar-looking Federal pump on ~70+ cars, and only fits the earlier cast-iron water pump. The big return tube is the give-away. It also has the 2 section pressure hose - 2 hose sizes joined by a coupler. The hose is different on a Federal pump, which has an O-ring fitting outlet instead of an inverted flare. I learned all that the hard way.

 

[PocketAces]

What kind of power steering do you have on that car? was it a factory PS car?

The power steering was added by the previous owner's son, so his 80+ year old mom could keep driving the car.

I'm very interested in knowing more about what would have been the factory setup for 1965.

 

[PocketAces]

His power steering looks factory. The pump is a TRW, which is different than the similar-looking Federal pump on ~70+ cars, and only fits the earlier cast-iron water pump. The big return tube is the give-away. It also has the 2 section pressure hose - 2 hose sizes joined by a coupler. The hose is different on a Federal pump, which has an O-ring fitting outlet instead of an inverted flare. I learned all that the hard way.

So you're saying this would be the right kind of pump for a 65?

 

[Denny65GT]

I have owned two 65's and neither had any sort of power steering. But I would enjoy that in my car.