Engine wiring harness question / discussion...

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dusterdoug

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What have you all done in a similar application?

I have a 69 Dart project. Call it a “restro-mod” for lack of a better term. My question(s) pertains to engine compartment wiring.

I have a repo head/parking light harness in place.
However, the OE charging system will not be used as I have a one-wire alternator. The ignition is all MSD.

I also will not have a wiper motor in place.

Thoughts?
Suggestions??
 
Tuck the connectors into a concealed place.might even put some electrical grease in them for protection.

Down the road you might want to ditch the 1 wire and have wipers again.

Never say never
 
Unless you want to rewire the whole car that is what I'd do

Have you done anything with the bulkhead connector?

Measure battery charging voltage when warmed up and make sure voltage is not over 15. "Range" when battery normal and warm is 13.8--14.2
 
Bulkhead connector, and one of Crackedback's MAD bypass and headlight kits. Makes a world of difference.
 
My original harness was in good condition so i pulled it all out and unwrapped it, pulled all the wire out that i didn't need like the ecu and ballast wiring then added the msd and and all the other wiring for fans, relays ect, taped it back together with non adhesive harnesses tape .

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Tuck the connectors into a concealed place.might even put some electrical grease in them for protection.

Down the road you might want to ditch the 1 wire and have wipers again.

Never say never

Nope...I never say never lol. The heap is being built for nice weather, thus the no wipers. We’ll see how the one wire works...
 
Unless you want to rewire the whole car that is what I'd do

Have you done anything with the bulkhead connector?

Measure battery charging voltage when warmed up and make sure voltage is not over 15. "Range" when battery normal and warm is 13.8--14.2

Bulkhead connector is stock and intact.
 
Bulkhead connector, and one of Crackedback's MAD bypass and headlight kits. Makes a world of difference.

The bypass isn’t needed with the one wire alternator. But I do have a cracked headlight relay on the shelf...
 
My original harness was in good condition so i pulled it all out and unwrapped it, pulled all the wire out that i didn't need like the ecu and ballast wiring then added the msd and and all the other wiring for fans, relays ect, taped it back together with non adhesive harnesses tape .

Great idea! Nice work too!! I have already started running wires from the MSD, relays and the fan.

8D529D20-1344-4326-ABE6-FFA09D8A75E4.jpeg
 
Good use of the clutch rod grommet, did the same for my gauges though firewall.
 
Good use of the clutch rod grommet, did the same for my gauges though firewall.

Great idea! If I was smart enough to do what you did with the harness...well I’m not that smart...
 
One of my pet hates is to see an otherwise good looking engine bay spoiled with wire strung all over the place after someone has installed some aftermarket parts, it's not about being smart, just determined to get it looking right, could not have done it without the FSM and a few headaches.
 
The bypass isn’t needed with the one wire alternator. But I do have a cracked headlight relay on the shelf...
Well yeah, it is, sort of. That wiring still feeds loads throughout the car, and becomes a parallel path. So you still need to make certain the wiring is in good shape, the ammeter terminals are not damaged, the ammeter not damaged or jumpered, and the big red and big lack bulkhead connector terminals have been repaired or replaces.

I'm not sayin' this specifically in your case, just generally
 
One of my pet hates is to see an otherwise good looking engine bay spoiled with wire strung all over the place after someone has installed some aftermarket parts, it's not about being smart, just determined to get it looking right, could not have done it without the FSM and a few headaches.

Haha!! I’m of the same opinion! Nothing can spoil a cool build for me as much as messy wiring!
 
Well yeah, it is, sort of. That wiring still feeds loads throughout the car, and becomes a parallel path. So you still need to make certain the wiring is in good shape, the ammeter terminals are not damaged, the ammeter not damaged or jumpered, and the big red and big lack bulkhead connector terminals have been repaired or replaces.

I'm not sayin' this specifically in your case, just generally

Good points! The ammeter terminals and components are in nice OE condition.
 
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