Evaporust by the barrel?

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I wish vinegar was as effective for me. I have tried vinegar and the results with my heavily rusted parts have been a total failure. With Evaporust, the wasted parts come out looking like new parts.

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I've done some really heavily rusted stuff with vinegar. I found that vinegar loosened the rust from the surface, it didn't really remove it completely. My solution was to power wash the parts and the rust would just wash right off.

Vinegar is cheap to buy and easy to get rid of. I dump it on the crushed stone turn-around off our driveway to kill the grass.
 
My attempt to acquire the 55 gallon drum of Evaporust was a failure (for some reason "Mercado Libre", the Mexican equivalent of E-Bay, could not process either of my credit cards). So instead of paying $21,000 pesos (about $1,266 usd) for a drum of Evaporust, I drove down the street to the Ranch Supply Store and purchased a 5 gallon jug (re-packaged in a liquid soap container) of molasses for $250 pesos (about $14.00 usd)
 
Today, I de-greased, hosed off, and blew dry the 340 bare block and two bare cylinder heads (and a new radiator overflow bracket that rusted while sitting in the shipping box too long). Dropped the parts in an empty 55 gallon drum. Heated some water and mixed 9 jugs (45 gallons) of warm water with 1 jug (5 gallons) of molasses. Covered the parts with the sweet mix and now I plan on letting them sit in that bath for the next 30 days. Check back here on or about January 9, 2018.

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I’ve been using it for the first time this past month. I’ve been extremely happy with it. Very happy. And I’ve tried the molasses/vinegar etc tricks. This stuff works. I’m not convinced it’s not molasses and something else. It’s sticky afterwards. Anyway it seems to lose its kick pretty quickly though. Not sure if it can be brought back to life or not. It works great when new but seems to weaken up fast.
 
Today I was reading some more internet opinions and some people are claiming to have found pitting on machined surfaces, which does not make sense since the reaction works on rust. Nevertheless, rather than wait the full 30 days, now I am thinking about yanking the stuff out after a week to determine the progress and check for this "rumor of pitting".
 
I’ve never had to soak anything over 12-24 hours. Even rusty crusty backing plates came out beautiful after 12 hours. I soaked a mill vice and it didn’t pit. If it pitted.... its because rust was in the pit.
 
First follow-up to post #29:
Pulled out the overflow bottle bracket that was covered in rust (on one side). Hosed it off (the molasses was not very sticky-almost ran off by itself). Dried it with a paper towel. Did not notice any surface rust forming immediately. Submersion time was about 48 hours. All the rust seems to be gone. There was some minor pitting in one area (from the rust).

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When I de-greased the windage tray I found almost no rust. I dropped it in the molasses anyway for 24 hours and it came out good and clean (don't have any before foto). I coated both the bracket (mentioned above) and the windage tray with a light application of Navel Jelly, not to remove rust, but I use it as a kind of "super-cleaner" and prep before painting. All the fotos are before applying Navel Jelly.

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When I de-greased the windage tray I found almost no rust. I dropped it in the molasses anyway for 24 hours and it came out good and clean (don't have any before foto). I coated both the bracket (mentioned above) and the windage tray with a light application of Navel Jelly, not to remove rust, but I use it as a kind of "super-cleaner" and prep before painting. All the fotos are before applying Navel Jelly.


what paint are you going to use on the windage tray?
 
I was thinking about the same paint I use on the inside of the block, Rust-Oleum Rusty Metal Red primer. However, with all the "windage" I probably should not even paint it at all. I am curious if the paint would survive for long in that location. In the past, I did not have any problem painting the cast portions of the block, but the windage tray might be another story alltogether.

P.S. This kind of reminds of the time I deepened a stock oil pan and pick-up 2 inches, then attached a home-made baffle with epoxy. The epoxy let go sometime before I tore the motor down later.
 
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In the Dallas area Harbor Freight carries it in the gallon size for $25.99 and I use a 20% off coupon.
1 Gallon Evapo-Rust™ Rust Remover

And something I just found out, you can use those coupons until they expire. I always thought they were "one use" coupons but they're not, I laminated mine with clear packing tape and keep it n my wallet.
 
You can also pull them up on your phone and they will scan the barcode off your phone. I use it for the "free" coupons also. I didn't know that until I saw someone else do it. I'm so cheap that if I'm buying more than one item I have my wife check out with the other one to use the 20% off and get another free item. I have more free flashlights than I know what to do with. LOL New free item coupon I found recently was free bungee cord 6 pack.
 
Block still soaking but pulled out a cylinder head, rinsed and blew it off. The thickest layer of rust that had "crystallized" was still stuck there. That nasty rust flaked off easily by scraping an ice pick (by hand-no hammer) over those areas. I will still try some more abrasion with a Dremel tool or electric drill. There seems to be a date tag in the fotos "0532". Anyone know what date that corresponds to? (These are open chamber "915" small block heads with 1.88" intake valves)

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For molasses, thats "El culo de gato"! Im going to try that, Ill filter my black evaporust through a coffee filter but I fail to see what that will do to it chemically. Rusty, can you elaborate further on the Evaporust rejuvination process?
 
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