exhaust backfire

-
Is the part number 685 and does the box have digital display on the top, or does it look like an MSD box.

I doubt it’s the box, I’m just trying to determine what you have.

And it’s probably a bad exhaust valve or it’s pig rich at idle.
Part number is not 685. No digital display on box. Looks like an MSD box. I don’t think it’s a pig rich at idle. I have turned the idle screws so lean that it will barely run yet the problem persists. I have switched carburetors and the same problem persists.
I initially thought maybe it was a sticky exhaust valve. Now this seems unlikely. It seems like an exhaust valve would be less likely to stick when the engine is hot as things heat up with aluminum heads. But the problem only occurs when the engine is hot. Valve is not sticking when engine is cold because leak down test was good.
 
Craziest Problem Ever !
Bang, Bang, Bang out the exhaust, and just on one side only.

Big Cam, lots of overlap at idle, fuel getting sucked into exhaust with overlap valves open at the same time at idle.

That cam is probably a 2000 to 7000 rpm running range. So it takes getting it up to 1500 rpm to where it starts to breath right and burn the fuel efficiently, instead of dumping it into the exhaust pipes.

Keep digging guys, someone here is going to come up with the answer.

Screenshot_20210331-115846_Gallery.jpg
 
Take a picture of your spark plug electrodes so we can see what they are burning like.

20200723_101215.jpg
 
Yes
Also unbolt the the collectors from the headers, 6 bolts.

Run it at temp, see if it is still backfiring.

Process of Elimination

IMG952019030995103236847.jpg
 
@Jbarker "Quote"

Hi fellas-
I hope someone can help me here, as I've been fighting this problem for a year!

I have a 71 Dart with 383 ->489 Source stroker kit, 10:1 compression, Hughes solid lifter cam, 2" tti headers, holley HP 850 carb, stealth heads, Mallory ignition box and coil, etc.

I have a really loud exhaust backfire that occurs ONLY out the passenger exhaust, ONLY at idle, ONLY when the engine is warmed up.

It occurs every 5-15 seconds.

__________

How about some pictures of your engine and engine bay Jbarker, so everyone can visually see what your setup is ??

20201003_172052.jpg
 
So what next? I think it would be near impossible to do that leakdown test on a hot engine (getting around those 2" primaries when they're hot, burning my hands, melting the leakdown tester hose, etc...)
It is possible and sorta easy but a royal PITA.
But before you start, isolate which cylinder(s) are doing it.
Then, just dismount the valve gear and do the LD with the pistons at the bottom. If you get a funny number, you can bop the valve stems with the wooden end of a hammer handle, to see if the result changes. If you have a leaker you will hear the difference as you are bopping and see the numbers jump around after each bop, usually leaking less each time.
But honestly, I kindof don't think the problem is in the LD.
I'll tell you why;
As kids we used the motor down the road,with a manual trans or an automatic with a rear pump, and shut off the ignition, with the trans still in gear. With the key off, and the engine being motored by the rear wheels, this would fill the exhaust system with a highly combustible mixture.
And then when we would return the key to "run", the first flame into the pipe would light the whole thing off like a cannon. The mufflers didn't always survive.
I think, by your description, this is what is happening to you, just don't know how.
I would think it starts with a misfire, and a fuel charge passing thru the chamber unburned. Actually I guess it would have to be a string of them, to accumulate that much mixture in the pipes or mufflers.

I'd like to know which cylinder(s) is/are doing it.
 
Last edited:
So to the OP, have you done anything yet or are all we are doing battin it around on a forum? you started this on the 28th. It's the 1st. Just wondering what progress you've made?

Or let me guess. You haven't had time. Somebody stole the car. The dog ate it. You lost it. The car's not where you are.

I'm just bein funny, but that's what we get all the time. Try to help somebody and suddenly the problem they thought was so critical has a two week waiting period.
 
@Jbarker ^^^^^
Everyone here is putting a lot of effort into your project to help you figure this out.

Need you to follow up on some things, get to the next steps, and get us some pictures so we can see what is going on.
 
And just to be clear.....we're all pullin for you bud. The best advice I know to give is from bein broke all the time and that's try the free stuff first, such as uncapping the headers, for instance. Costs nothing and you may well find the problem.
 
It is possible and sorta easy but a royal PITA.
But before you start, isolate which cylinder(s) are doing it.
Then, just dismount the valve gear and do the LD with the pistons at the bottom. If you get a funny number, you can bop the valve stems with the wooden end of a hammer handle, to see if the result changes. If you have a leaker you will hear the difference as you are bopping and see the numbers jump around after each bop, usually leaking less each time.
But honestly, I kindof don't think the problem is in the LD.
I'll tell you why;
As kids we used the motor down the road,with a manual trans or an automatic with a rear pump, and shut off the ignition, with the trans still in gear. With the key off, and the engine being motored by the rear wheels, this would fill the exhaust system with a highly combustible mixture.
And then when we would return the key to "run", the first flame into the pipe would light the whole thing off like a cannon. The mufflers didn't always survive.
I think, by your description, this is what is happening to you, just don't know how.
I would think it starts with a misfire, and a fuel charge passing thru the chamber unburned. Actually I guess it would have to be a string of them, to accumulate that much mixture in the pipes or mufflers.

I'd like to know which cylinder(s) is/are doing it.
We called it a "key rap"
The mufflers took a beating.
 
Rus
So to the OP, have you done anything yet or are all we are doing battin it around on a forum? you started this on the 28th. It's the 1st. Just wondering what progress you've made?

Or let me guess. You haven't had time. Somebody stole the car. The dog ate it. You lost it. The car's not where you are.

I'm just bein funny, but that's what we get all the time. Try to help somebody and suddenly the problem they thought was so critical has a two week waiting period.
Rusty-I love this! A little good-natured ball busting really makes me feel like I belong. Seriously, I am really impressed by the enthusiasm of this group. I apologize that my posts have been brief and infrequent over the last several days. I have been working way too much but hope to make some progress this weekend.
I fired up the car 2 days ago for the first time this year. Problem persists, but it was backfiring out the driver side!!!???
Did I hallucinate that it was the passenger side all last summer? The backfires were much less frequent though. Maybe 1 every 5 minutes or so. I think because it was cold out? So it was tough to say if it was ONLY the driver’s side. So now I am not worried about that slight header leak.
Another thing (and this is an important detail I forgot to mention to you.). It always is worse when the car is idling low. If I have my foot on the gas and keep it at 11 or 1200 RPMs, it backfires less. With the car in gear and the rpm dipping between six and 800, it backfires more. My brilliant buddy asked if maybe my voltage is dropping, and the ignition box can’t do it’s job if the voltage gets too low. I think he may be on to something. Alternator looks ancient. Maybe at idle the alternator just can’t get it done...? I thank you all again for your knowledge, patience, and humor. I will be looking into this tomorrow. This is a great group!!!
-Jay
 
I will try to upload some pics. They won’t be useful for troubleshooting but may be fun to check out.

1B925232-5FD9-4292-854B-A923B6609DF5.jpeg


B690D191-E1D5-4E6E-97F4-20FD4DCB9471.jpeg


88B13F40-A573-4616-92D7-DBEF642661D3.jpeg
 
Rus

Rusty-I love this! A little good-natured ball busting really makes me feel like I belong. Seriously, I am really impressed by the enthusiasm of this group. I apologize that my posts have been brief and infrequent over the last several days. I have been working way too much but hope to make some progress this weekend.
I fired up the car 2 days ago for the first time this year. Problem persists, but it was backfiring out the driver side!!!???
Did I hallucinate that it was the passenger side all last summer? The backfires were much less frequent though. Maybe 1 every 5 minutes or so. I think because it was cold out? So it was tough to say if it was ONLY the driver’s side. So now I am not worried about that slight header leak.
Another thing (and this is an important detail I forgot to mention to you.). It always is worse when the car is idling low. If I have my foot on the gas and keep it at 11 or 1200 RPMs, it backfires less. With the car in gear and the rpm dipping between six and 800, it backfires more. My brilliant buddy asked if maybe my voltage is dropping, and the ignition box can’t do it’s job if the voltage gets too low. I think he may be on to something. Alternator looks ancient. Maybe at idle the alternator just can’t get it done...? I thank you all again for your knowledge, patience, and humor. I will be looking into this tomorrow. This is a great group!!!
-Jay
Thanks for the update.
Apply the kiss theory.
Do the simple things first.
Remove the spark plugs, keep them in order and take some close up pic's of them. Post those pic's here on the forum. They can provide alot of info.
Fix the header leak.
 
Yes ^^^^
Spark Plug pictures and
Fix that header leak, you have an H-Pipe in the exhaust that will pull air over to the driver's side. Bang, Bang . . .
 
See you have the Red MSD Box for the ignition, they are known to give trouble.

Drag race buddy is saying the MSD boxes are a racing item are finicky and give trouble. If you want a good running driver go back to the Mopar Factory Ignition, less headaches.

See if you can set up a mopar brain box ignition and test that on there, your problem will probably go away.

Screenshot_20210402-073323_Gallery.jpg


20200714_165401.jpg
 
Has anyone mentioned wires cross firing? Chrysler put out a service bulletin describing how to route and shield the wires on my 360 engine because of an idle misfire. Turn out the lights and you’ll see the sparks if any.
 
People are chasing this back to an ignition problem.

Here is a cure !

Screenshot_20210402-080211_Gallery.jpg


Simple is Good
 
Last edited:
-
Back
Top