dusterbd13
Well-Known Member
cheaper. 200 for rear discs and no noise. also a good limited slip.
mine ended up being a little narrower than a 8.25
140,000 miles, 36x13.5" tires... Still the same 8.8" the truck came with....
so we've decided beyond a reasonable doubt that the 8.75 in my duster is done for. its a damn shame since its got new brakes, fresh moser axles, etc.
with that being said, I'm not spending 900 to rebuild the hogshead (cheapest i could find around here).
i however have read and heard about using the ford explorer 8.8 instead. supposedly just as strong as the 8.75.
found one local with rear disc, 3.55, locker, all the cables, lines, hardware, etc., and a 90 day warranty for 200. i cant pass that up.
what I'm looking for is a couple of things.
some guys have put them in at their normal length by just relocating the axle mounting points. this is actually what id like to do, as I'm currently running 1 inch spacers to make my bullitt wheels fit. the explorer rear is 2 inches wider than the stock small bolt 8.75 (any idea what that would be difference wise since I've got the big bolt brakes?) so i would be spot on in theory for my wheels.
the questions i have are:
1. any pictures of it done this way? I'm concerned about clearance with my TTI 3 inch exhaust.
2. what have people done with the master and proportioning system to account for the rear discs?
3. how have you been hooking up the e-brake?
4. how quiet is it?
5. what have you done to hook that funky plate to our mopar drive shafts?
6. will my drive shaft need to be shortened?
7. what am i looking at as far as the hydraulics are concerned?
8. anything I'm not thinking of?
please let me know as soon as you can, I'm planning on going down to the yard on Monday to get it before someone else does.
thanks
michael
gears and bearings went south. bearings prsumably went first, followed closely by the gears.
and i know most guys sont like to interbreed, but it doesnt bother me a bit.
michael
I worked for ford and who ever said that the 8.8 is stronger or as strong as the 8.75 is full of it.I used rebuild them 8.8s at least one a month.They are by far not a strong rear I would say as strong as a 7.25. Mark
the main concerns i have are wether or not the driveshaft flange will contact my exhaust, and if i will lose any tire clearance over my big bolt a-body rear with 1 inch spacers. things are already very tight on the pass side, but i have 1/2-3/4 clearacne on the ddrivers.
strenght is not a concern., with 400HP at the wheels and street tires, i shouldnt have trouble with breaking it.
^---My stock power master cylinder works fine on my 74' for this. If anything, I'd delete the prop valve for fun, but that's nothing to be concerned with.
For the e-brake cable: those cable loops you use for your dog leash, you use one of those to close the cable around the engagement hook. Done deal. Cable adjusts fine, make sure you adjust the drum brakes, make them they drag a little. 8.8 fits like it was made for it, seriously.
I'd delete the prop valve for fun, but that's nothing to be concerned with.
Interesting dialog. I am looking to do the same with my '65 Valiant. The cost of 8.75" Sure Grip from a B-body is painful. If I have less than 400hp I would think this could be an affordable solution to replace my weak 7.25" stock rear end. I wish this thread gave more specific "how to" and less "you can't do that"!