Factory AC vs Aftermarket

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JGC403

JGC403

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I'm thinking about putting AC in my 1968 Barracuda. The car is originally a non-AC car. I read about the Demon "Classic Air" AC install in the "How to Articles" section. Looks like a nice setup. Are these aftermarket kits better than hunting down a factory setup? I don't need the car to look factory.
With the Classic Air setup, there isn't a blower motor sticking through the firewall but the heater and AC lines come through that hole. Is there more clearance between the valve cover and those lines with a big block?
To get the Barracuda running I'll be taking the 408 out of my Jeep and putting that in the Barracuda for now until I build a big block. Can I use the stock Jeep AC compressor with classic air kit?
 
If it's a sanden yes. I have one in my 68 Barracuda. Call classic air they will help you with your ?. Should work fine with your big block, just need the mounts.
 
I can't point out 1 good thing about the factory a/c in that car.
 
The factory compressor uses two or three times as much horsepower to run it compared to the new rotary compressors
 
Pawned said:
The factory compressor uses two or three times as much horsepower to run it compared to the new rotary compressors
Click to expand...

Could a new pump be used instead of the old type? Keeping the Factory AC system parts inside the car like to control switch, heater box, vents etc. and use modern components under the hood?
 
I bought a underhood kit from Classic in Tampa for a small block. All new modern stuff under the hood and hooks up to the factory evaporator at the firewall. You still have the blower motor sticking through. If your looking to lose the blower motor don't know if it would be what your looking for.
 
JGC403 said:
Could a new pump be used instead of the old type? Keeping the Factory AC system parts inside the car like to control switch, heater box, vents etc. and use modern components under the hood?
Click to expand...
Now see... someone mentions 1 downside of the factory air, then you mentioned a few more. I wasn't planning to go into all that.
The under dash vent assembly for 68 has chromed pot metal louvers that are always pitted, sometimes broken, ( price having that thing restored ), and even worse... the 68 only dash had another little dash pad wrapped around under that vent assembly. We know how dash pads hold up to age without mentioning the cigarette burns and other damage possible here. The OEM push button controller is a trouble maker by design ( Ford was foolish enough to put a similar design in a 90 Tempo. I replaced a few of those at only 2 years old ).
This climate controller will require a different instrument bezel too.
Those who have factory a/c might claim it as a slight increase in resale value. They maintain it and live with it at whatever cost and/or condition.
You don't have it. You'll spend a small fortune for it ( varies with its used condition ). Aftermarket is all new, R134a compatible, and still years away from having a bad reputation.
 
I believe the cuts out on the firewall are different between A/C and non A/C Cars. I do not believe any of the A/C line cut outs in the firewall match up with the heater core hose cut outs on the Non A/C car. Not too sure if the hole for the blower motor is the same size and in the same location between the two. I was looking in adding the factory a/c into my non a/c 68 but when no one could give me any answers on the cut outs I gave up on that.
 
RedFish makes some good points. If your starting from scratch you would have to locate all the factory pieces for the inside and then throw more money at it to put it in operating order.
 
That is true, it will probably cost more in the long run to hunt down factory pieces. And I don't need it to be a restoration and look Factory.

Does anyone have a picture of an AC system from a 1968 Plymouth? I don't think I have ever seen one.
 
I have a stock compressor off a 71 Duster. It will need a fix kit to stop the leak around the shaft. Apparently pretty simple fix. You can have it, free, you pay the shipping. This thing is heavy
 
The stock RV2 compressor was so heavy they installed thicker torsion bars in cars w/ those, at least w/ a slant engine. Rebuilt ones are fairly expensive. A Sanden is much smaller, lighter, and more efficient. There are brackets for a big-block. You can use any compressor w/ any cabin components. All compressors I have seen have just 1 wire to actuate the clutch. But, you must know how to plumb the hoses. It isn't hard to make custom hoses.

I wouldn't install R-134A today, since being discontinued this year in U.S. (unless they slipped again), and long-gone in Europe and Canada. I use Dura-cool refrigerant in all my vehicles, even the 2002, but read the scare stories for yourself. The only thing that marks a compressor "R-134A" is the oil installed, which is easy to change. I suggest Hella's PAO 68 oil, which works for any refrigerant or compressor and doesn't absorb moisture like PAG does.
 
Yea my dad had converted a couple of cars over from R-134A before. We do still have a couple of canisters on the shelf for the 1957 DeSoto. That we kept all original.
 
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