Factory service manual versus real expierence

-

williaml

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2012
Messages
258
Reaction score
14
Location
Ringwood NJ
I'm deciding whether or not to swap out the engine on my own. If I follow the FSM to the "T" it looks like a long process has anyone done this before? I had another tread and after reading the FSM I'm not sure if I could do it. The FSM is saying to remove trans, driveshaft, etc from the car. Couldn't I leave them in and just take out the engine and put in the new one?
 
You can certainly do that. You'll need to fabricate some method of supporting the trans while pulling the engine. What engine is this? small block V8? Slant?

I'm thinking that in the case of the stant, you need to be VERY careful to get proper lift points, or the thing will be unbalanced, flop to one side, and bind up.

Essentially, you support the trans, pull the dust cover, converter bolts, and install a scrap metal stop in the bottom bell holes to keep the converter from falling out.

But the other thing you oughta ask yourself, "is the transmission really in good shape?"

That is, oil seals, leaky gaskets, rear bushing/ seal, etc, would be a lot easier to deal with once you have it out, and a good excuse to clean 'er all up, too.
 
Agree with 67Dart on all counts. You can pull the engine/trans as a complete assembly too.
 
Yes it is a slant 6. And I'm having the trans re-built next week and the engine should be back in 8-9 days. It seems straight forward but I have never done anything on that scale and want it done right.
 
Buy, rent, or borrow an engine hoist (aka cherry picker). If you have some hand tools, you can do this! Air tools speed the job up. Your biggest challenge will probably be getting the rusty old exhaust disconnected without cutting. You'll need a hydraulic jack(s) and some jack stands. Don't mickey mouse anything when it comes to safety.
 
you can do it either way. unless i am replacing just the trans. i pull them out as a unit, but thats just me. i do it this way so i am not fighting the converter or flywheel bolts or trying to get everything lined up under the car. i find it easier to just unbolt the driveshaft and crossmember / linkage and just take it all out. its really a matter of preference . some would rather battle the trans, and secure it up in the car and remove the engine seperately , rather than just take it all out.
 
:prayer:I found trying to follow fsm suck they seem to make somthing easy ,hard !!! I am doing my front end and thought what the hell did i get myself into. But with the help and info I got from FABO members I think I`m going to make it. Their experience and knowledge really helps
Moe
 
One piece of advice is to be sure the torque converter is fully engaged into the pump on the trans. before mating it to the engine. Some can be a real bear and you risk damaging the pump in the trans. or cracking a transmission.
 
Yes it is a slant 6. And I'm having the trans re-built next week and the engine should be back in 8-9 days. It seems straight forward but I have never done anything on that scale and want it done right.

Heck if you're doing that I DEFINATELY would do both as a unit.
 
If your pulling them together you need to get that front end up high so the trans tail shaft will clear the ground and trans hump or pull the front k frame with the engine still mounted to it and bring the whole unit out from the bottom but you will need a engine lift to lift the car up for that.Any way you go it is going to be "some work" just take your time and recheck as you go and it will come together.
 
another trick is to take an old spray paint lid stick it in over the tailshaft seal and tape it up so you dont puke fluid everywhere.
 
One piece of advice is to be sure the torque converter is fully engaged into the pump on the trans. before mating it to the engine.
Ditto. I didn't know that the first time I pulled my slant six. I ended up stripping a lower bolt hole when trying to mate the rebuilt engine to the tranny. You must spin the torque converter several times and keep pushing until the bolt pads sits at least 1/2" back from the face of the tranny. It requires that 2 shafts engage, or such. Yours may slide out a bit when you pull the engine, so always check. Getting the 4 torque converter bolts loose sometimes requires a special wrench. I usually use a set of offset box wrenches. And paint one of the bolts on both sides since it bolts up only one way. You can usually use a screwdriver on the ring gear to hold the transmission from turning.

I didn't even know to upbolt the torque converter and pulled it out with the engine (thought it was a "flywheel"). The machine shop guy laughed at me when I brought it in that way. I even let the tranny case flop forward. I should have bought a manual. Anyway, everything worked after that and I slowly learned by trying. williaml, I see your posts often and see you learning. I wish I had the internet way back then or at least someone to give me tips.
 
-
Back
Top