Fake mechanic 66 Cuda 273 doesn’t have spark after long long wait

[foundingfathers]

Excuse my ignorance but I am a fake mechanic. I’ve decided to try and get my childhood car running. First purchased a new carb jets are spraying perfect. Put battery in and got spark plug testers and no luck there.

Took off distributor cap and it looks pretty good. It ran 10 years ago. Is there a way to test the coil considering that’s the next thing in line after the battery, or is the issue most likely in the distributor cap and if that’s the case just replace the entire cap?

Thank you very very much

 

[dadsbee]

Make sure it's in neutral, take a wire from the battery + direct to the coil +. Use a screw driver or remote starter switch and jump the starter solenoid terminals to crank it... does it fire then? If so you have a wiring bulkhead / ignition switch issue.

 

[318willrun]

First, let me say "Congratulations on your First Post" !!! after being here almost 8 years!

 

[Garrett Ellison]

After 10 years, you probably need to clean or replace and re-gap the ignition points.

 

[67Dart273]

If this is breaker points (non electronic) ignition it is far more likely NOT to be the coil, except maybe if you've left the key "on" for long periods, in the run position.

Remove cap. Bump or wrench engine until points are visually closed. Take a good look that they are the "flat" of the distributor cam.

Get a multimeter, you need one anyway, and a couple of alligator clip jumper leads. If you cannot find the leads made up, many places sell various alligator clips

With the key in "run" and a good charged battery in place, measure voltage at the coil positive post. This is the post that does NOT run a wire to the distributor

You should NOT see full battery voltage, but rather reduced voltage of maybe 6V or so. This is because IF the breaker points are closed AND CONDUCTING they will drag down the coil voltage because the coil will be drawing current, and dropping voltage through the ballast resistor, the long white ceramic device on the firewall or fender apron

If you read full battery voltage and the points appear to be closed, they are likely corroded. The post above is good info

To "set" the points with no dwell meter, you need a CLEAN oil free feeler gauge of the correct thickness, but just to "get fire" even if they open and close at all, is enough to get it started.

Also be aware that the condenser (capacitor) the cylindrical item next to the points, inside the dist, MUST be good. Contrary to the internet "wisdom" THERE IS NO WAY to actually test a condenser with a multimeter.

 

[foundingfathers]

Thanks for the responses , I will be tackling this tomorrow and hope to have the issue fixed or atleast the problem figured out

 

[GTX JOHN]

I used a Match book cover to gap the points on
many a dark night in my teenage years when stranded.

It worked fine.

 

[MadScientistMat]

Also be aware that the condenser (capacitor) the cylindrical item next to the points, inside the dist, MUST be good. Contrary to the internet "wisdom" THERE IS NO WAY to actually test a condenser with a multimeter.

Some high end multimeters can:

If your multimeter has this setting, the condenser should measure between 0.2 and 0.4 uF. If you need to buy a meter anyway, look for a capacitance setting on the feature list. Not very common, but they're starting to come down in price and no longer something you need to get an expensive LCR meter for.

Edit: See below; this only picks up certain failure modes. It will only find if the capacitor isn't, uh, capacitating at all, and not if it shorts out at high voltage.

 

[Bewy]

I would be checking the inside of the dist cap. 10 yrs of condensation from sitting might have caused carbon tracking, rotor too.

 

[67Dart273]

Some high end multimeters can:
View attachment 1716359781
If your multimeter has this setting, the condenser should measure between 0.2 and 0.4 uF. If you need to buy a meter anyway, look for a capacitance setting on the feature list. Not very common, but they're starting to come down in price and no longer something you need to get an expensive LCR meter for.

Let me clarify. That is NOT A TEST. Those caps need repeat MUST be high voltage leak tested to be sure they are good. WORSE, a cap that is actually somewhat low on capacitance but somewhat leaky and not shorted, can sometimes read HIGHER on a capacitance test.

Those capacitance testers are good for NEW caps to be sure they have the values as marked, or maybe you cannot read them.

 

[MadScientistMat]

Thanks for clarifying, it's correct that this test would not find a high voltage leak. It can pick up some other failures but is only applying a tiny voltage.

 

[foundingfathers]

Update: I tested coil seemed to work and distributor was spinning and sparking so we ditched the spark blue testers and hooked up a charged battery and she started … roughly but still started now it’s tune up time thanks for all the help it’ll be a long road with many questions so I appreciate the forum

 

[eekvonzipper]

Update: I tested coil seemed to work and distributor was spinning and sparking so we ditched the spark blue testers and hooked up a charged battery and she started … roughly but still started now it’s tune up time thanks for all the help it’ll be a long road with many questions so I appreciate the forum

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