Fast ez efi

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fcm42000

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finally got my wiring done with my new dash and speed hut gauges, i changed all the terminals at the bulkhead connectors added a nippodenso alternator, i had some problems at first trying to start, the instructions in the ez efi kit tell you to wire the "on" pink wire to a switched system, this doesnt work. when you are starting the car only the coil and starter relay get voltage. i wired a switch to a always hot wire and holy cow it started right up like a new car, i revved it and .....damn its sound strong, i will drive it soon
 
This is the way I was thinking of going with my build. It will definitely be EFI, I just can't choose which one to go with. There are so many choices now. Let us know how it goes!:burnout:
 
I have a Fast EZ kit sitting in the garage waiting for my 408 to get done at the builders. I am very excited to get it all together. I’m going to do the break on the motor with my carb setup than make the switch to efi. Can’t wait!

You could try a search to see how others have wired it to a switched source. I believe most run a new relay that gets wired to supply power while cranking and run. I haven't even looked into mine yet. But I expected the 12v switch to be the hardest to figure out when I get around to it.

I did a short search and found the thread linked below. I will also be adding an aftermarket ignition system to the car at the same time. So I will try the ballaster bypass method for my switched 12v source.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=196685&highlight=fast+efi
 
71swing said:
I have a Fast EZ kit sitting in the garage waiting for my 408 to get done at the builders. I am very excited to get it all together. I’m going to do the break on the motor with my carb setup than make the switch to efi. Can’t wait!

You could try a search to see how others have wired it to a switched source. I believe most run a new relay that gets wired to supply power while cranking and run. I haven't even looked into mine yet. But I expected the 12v switch to be the hardest to figure out when I get around to it.

I did a short search and found the thread linked below. I will also be adding an aftermarket ignition system to the car at the same time. So I will try the ballaster bypass method for my switched 12v source.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=196685&highlight=fast+efi
Click to expand...

Exactly what I want to do, but the only other reason I am using Carb for break in is to see if I have enough Vacuum to run this system before I actually buy it.
 
There are several ways around this problem, depending on your igniton

You still running a ballast resistor?

If you are not, you should be able to wire the old brown, dark blue, ignition junction all together with the pink

If you do run a ballast, do one of the following:

(The problem of course, is that the "ignition run" goes cold during crank, so the only two hots are the brown bypass and the yellow start wire.

Hook the pink to "ignition run" which is cold in start, hot in run

1---Junction that point with the output of a bosch relay fired by the starter relay yellow wire

2---or just run a big diode from the yellow start wire on the relay to the junction of the pink/ run

You want the diode band (starter relay start wire) ----->|----- (pink and ignition run)

3---Replace the start relay with a later Jeep on which has an extra set of contacts you can use wire the extra contact right over to the pink/ igntion run junction

G, I, and the battery stud hook up as per your old one. "bal" goes you your pink, and the "egr/ sol" go to your starter solenoid as the old one. Youll have to install a heavy spade connector on that wire.

StarterRelay.jpg
 
i used a typical rocker switch with a always hot source, i like the idea of being able to turn the fuel pump and computer off with a switch for a few reasons, or turn the computer on without turning the key on if i want to change settings without the whole car hot
 
What plugs would you guys recommend, i tried autolite 65 and the seem a little to cold, foul out real quick.

360 .030 over, 268xe cam, ported j heads, long tube headers, rpm air gap intake, stock electronic ignition.

any recommendations for idle a/f ratio with out a vacuum gauge
 
fcm42000 said:
WHAT PN?

i just picked up some autolite 404 after researching plugs, will see what happens
Click to expand...

Theres a website that should tell you what that plug crosses over to. Not everyone uses the same plug. It is setup specific.
 
the idle sucks, it wants to idle at 30 bdc, at 10 it runs like **** but revs good, i dont have a very big cam it shouldn't idle rough. how does djvcudas' run so smooth. starts up fine like a new car, maybe i need to check the rockers, haven't checked them since i have been running it.

does it just need some time to learn?

what is a good a/f for idle, cruise, WOT

I don't want to sound like I am bashing this system, it revs like a sunuva gun and sounds strong without messing with any a/f screws on a carb, and this is the first time i havent had a backfire during the tuning process. I dont know if it is worth the 2 grand yet.
 
idle in between 13:1 to 14.7:1

cruise shoot for 14.7:1 This system doesn't give you access to fuel tables does it? If not shoot for 14.7:1 for now.

WOT for naturally aspirated shoot for 12:1 to 13.1 Might be able to go a bit leaner but this is a good safe zone. Forced induction will require WOT to be richer.

Hope this helps a bit.
 
Set idle at 14.0, cruise 13.5 and WOT 13. Set your idle speed on the hand held and then the IAC to 20 in gear if automatic by adjusting the idle screw on the throttle body. You accel settings are what the engine likes best and can go between -8 and 2 for best results. Make sure you have no exhaust leaks upstream of the o2 or it will be pig rich.
 
What's your fuel pressure? What are you using for an ignition system? (They recommend a MSD style box). You might try starting your tune proceedure with the idle set high (1200) and then work down to a better idle speed as the system learns.
 
fuel pressure is at a steady 45 and that is inputted already into the computer, i am using a stock electronic ignition with a provided signal conditioner.

I am starting to think the battery in the trunk was a bad idea
 
I spent alot of money on this motor and I used a damn harbor freight timing gun...IDIOT! I borrowed a good timing gun and turns out the harbor freight one was off by about 35 degrees,, damn chinese. as soon as i timed it to around 10 bdc the vacuum kicked up, audibly.

the idle is still rough and i cant get the car to idle above 850 with the handheld, but by peddle it is no problem, even smoothes out quite a bit. I suspect the IAC motor is at the end of its limit and the throttle screw needs to be turned in a little, i will look into it first before i touch it.

if the plug wire that is 180 out from #1 is 5 degrees off from #1 that means the distributor is bad right?

and if i twist the rotor by hand to check the freedom of the mech advance it moves freely, however, it does not go completely back without a little force, thats why when i rev it, it takes a second to stabilize
 
after going through the manual the iac was maxed out all the way open, adjusted to about 20 like 72bbswinger said and it idles smoother, distributor is jacked up though but at least its drivable now
 
Do you have a picture of your gauges? I just ordered a Peak Dash that I will be installing 9 Speed Hut Gauges into.
 
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