Father-Son 1974 Duster Project

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:cheers:

Here a a few pics of the motor and trans going in the car!
A huge thanks to Al. What a fabulous individual! Aaron and I enjoyed spending the day with you working on Misty

:D
 

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Now I need to figure out how the power steering pump and bracket mount and what provisions to make for an AC compressor
 

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Ha! I was just looking at my steering column and the plate that it goes through that the gasket is on that goes on the firewall. I don't remember how this goes back together. Why are there three bolt holes so big?
 
I always figured that those holes were oversized to allow for the best alignment with the dash, firewall, and steering box.
 
Ok another question that I'm sure I know the answer to: Is there supposed to be stud In View attachment image-2594358464.jpg the end tapping of the passenger side head? It's missing on our motor. Is it possible the builder left it out intentionally because the trans tube is in the way.
 
No there are only studs at the very end on each side. Bolts go in the rest
 
Yep, there's supposed to be a stud there. Front and back (each end) exhaust bolt holes go into water jackets on small block heads. You can bend the dipstick tube up and back just a little to get clearance. Just hold it in the middle, and stick a 1/2 inch extension down into it a bit to bend it. You just need to make sure it bends above the bracket that bolts to the bellhousing.
 
JDMopar said:
Yep, there's supposed to be a stud there. Front and back (each end) exhaust bolt holes go into water jackets on small block heads. You can bend the dipstick tube up and back just a little to get clearance. Just hold it in the middle, and stick a 1/2 inch extension down into it a bit to bend it. You just need to make sure it bends above the bracket that bolts to the bellhousing.
Click to expand...
Thanks JD. What's the best thing to put on the stud as a sealant? Permatex?
 
I need to find out what kind of bolts to use to bolt the flex plate to the torque converter....

We bought a nice stock gently used radiator from a V8 auto trans AC 74 A body. It's on it's way to us now.

Our distributor arrived today and I'm wondering if I should just use the Chrysler ECU box and ballast resistor since our under hood harness is in tact. I really think going with the HEI module would be better for our purposes.

I'm wondering what do you do with the unused connector on the harness that is for the Chrysler ECU box if you don't use one?
 
What to do on the harness question....don't cut it. Lol you can always tie it back out of the way. I think mine was hacked out on my 74 pain in the but if you ever want to go back.
 
AlV said:
It's either 5/16-24 or 7/16-20 for the converter.
Special bolt I think because of the shallow head.

http://www.autozone.com/nuts-bolts-...orque-converter-bolt-for-chrysler/193899_0_0/

Summit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-240-7302/overview/

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-240-7301/overview/
Click to expand...

Yep, I think its the 5/16. If you have the ones for the crank.. The ones to the converter look similar. Have shallow but oversized hex. just smaller size.

Bob, just saw your post to my thread. Thanks. Too bad we were not able to connect last week. I ended up taking a walk on the beech and was on my way back to PA by 4:30.
 
D/D, Just a quick comment-Your engine builder is not going to put that exhaust stud in there. That's something you would do when you bolt up the exhaust. I have used permatex red on them also, but that sealant might be the best
 
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