Fenderwell headers too Close to Master Cylinder Line

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yea im running the hedman headers,i run a 25x4.5x15 goodyear front runner and they rub a little bit,,i had hookers in a 68 cuda before and had tires rub with those too,but mine is not a street car
 
Mopar King, Sorry to just now be checking back in. I was headed out to the garage to look for the master cylinder and my wife stopped me & instead I ended up having to take my daughter to the E.R with problems with her diabetes. She's spent 2 days in the I.C.U. & I've only spent a little over 2 hours at home in that time. She's fine & back at home now & once I get things caught back up here at home I'll try to get back out to the garage to look for the cylinder.
 
hello '64 Cuda, good to hear everything is fine with you and your family; Don't worry about it, take care of what's important. I am going to buy it on auto zone for the link I posted which is for a 1979 ford mustang V8 manual brakes master cylinder. it looks and function the same , so it should fit and work. If not then I am going to have to do measurements from what pettybludart Advised. At least I got a few new ideas and I am not alone. I'll keep you updated on my progress on the master Cylinder / headers situation
 
why would you replace those with another set of the same thing? i would be looking to move those tubes away from the mc. id also wrap the tubes closest to the mc along with aheat shield. they are your brakes, not something to mess around with.
 
Mopar King: My originally /6 car has Hooker 2" fenderwell headers, 440 engine on Schumaker conversion mounts and is nowhere near as close .
 
jamesdart said:
why would you replace those with another set of the same thing? i would be looking to move those tubes away from the mc. id also wrap the tubes closest to the mc along with aheat shield. they are your brakes, not something to mess around with.
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Huh me? Was a separate discussion from master cylinders and brake lines. Sorry to hi-jack thread with my postscript as I figured starting my sentence with "P.S. 440OutLawDart" was good enough lmao.

Bad Shrimp
 
This is a master cylinder from a '95 Mustang, it has a 1 1/16 bore and basically the same stroke as what was on my car ('75 Duster). The MC from a '94-'98 V6/GT are the more desireable units even among the Mustang folks that are upgrading. I mounted it on the top two holes since it is just a 2 bolt mount and mounted the shield on the bottom two holes. There is no interference with the valve covers and after a year of use, I have had no problems. I did have to drill a new hole in the brake pedal and I just made a new pushrod while I was at it. The good part is that it increased the leverage and lessens the pedal effort.
 

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That looks like a really good solution there. Especially since the bore is the same as what Mopar used on a lot of their master cylinders.
 
I would have to assume 17" rim minimum. I'll see when I recieve them. Ordered teh brakes today. I'll post a few pics of his gear, wonder if n e 1 else has installed Dr. Diff's 13" front kit.
 
Just get a M/C out of a 1970 Charger. The lines exit the passenger side. They will bolt right in.
The extra fluid capacity is a plus to.

A1-Cardone 10475
Napa-NMC p2026
 
Johnny Dart said:
Just get a M/C out of a 1970 Charger. The lines exit the passenger side. They will bolt right in.
The extra fluid capacity is a plus to.

A1-Cardone 10475
Napa-NMC p2026
Click to expand...
LOL
Thats beautiful, John! Simple, it fits the application, is cheap and readily available.
Next time I need a master, I'm going for the 70 Charger MC!
Thanks for the link, man.
My MC lines aren't NEARLY as close as some of the pictures posted here, but having the lines exit the MC on the other side is a big improvement.

George
 
George R said:
LOL
Thats beautiful, John! Simple, it fits the application, is cheap and readily available.
Next time I need a master, I'm going for the 70 Charger MC!
Thanks for the link, man.
My MC lines aren't NEARLY as close as some of the pictures posted here, but having the lines exit the MC on the other side is a big improvement.

George
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Hey George !

To top this m/c cylinder off I would add some flexible stainless braided lines from the m/c to the distribution block. Should be good to go.

If you need to get it away from the valve cover for any reason, you can get a m/c off-set adapter to.

All kinds of variables from Our Mother Mopar. :thumrigh:

A1-Cardone 10475 Master Cylinder

PS: Wrapping the m/c with some heat wrap, i.e this starter, might be a good decission to.
Check out Thermo Tec.
 

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Bad Shrimp said:
Huh me? Was a separate discussion from master cylinders and brake lines. Sorry to hi-jack thread with my postscript as I figured starting my sentence with "P.S. 440OutLawDart" was good enough lmao.

Bad Shrimp
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nah, it was meant for the op with the hookers having all the clearance issues.
badshrimp are you planning on running the big brakes with 17s and fenderwell headers?
 
badshrimp are you planning on running the big brakes with 17s and fenderwell headers?

Yah, already rockin' the new rubbers with fenderwells and small brakes,,,,,,

American Racing T70R wheels with Nitto Invo 255/50/17 in back and 225/45/17 in front. Seems like great tire so far.......just wish I could put 275's all the way around with out any work.
 
blasphemous said:
Mopar King: My originally /6 car has Hooker 2" fenderwell headers, 440 engine on Schumaker conversion mounts and is nowhere near as close .
Click to expand...
this is where I was gonna go with this one,I was wondering how the engine was mounted ?? I have many friends with big block a-bodies ,and they're no where as close as that :bounce:
 
howd you get to work? ive seen cars with little tires and 14s on the front rub the fenderwell headers
 
KK, just remembered why I purchased the combo that I did,,,,,,,,BFGoodrich 215/70/14 Radial T/A tires are 25.90 in diameter.......VS. Nitto Invo 225/45/17 which is 24.96 in diameter. I would say that the 17 being 1" less in diameter is part of what makes it work as well as or better than the 14 I used to have on there.

I had 14"s in front, 15"s in back both chrysler rally style wheels. I like them, but wanted a lot more grip for cornering etc. Nitto Invo's have 260 tread rating vs. Radial T/A 400 tread rating. Not many choices for 14" and 15" rims which is too bad because I really didnt want to change the chrysler rally wheels.
 
Here's my junk.
Hooker Super Comp fenderwell headers.
Coated headers.
Wilwood brakes all around.

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300 pass's on this setup.
 
Johnny Dart said:
Hey George !

To top this m/c cylinder off I would add some flexible stainless braided lines from the m/c to the distribution block. Should be good to go.

If you need to get it away from the valve cover for any reason, you can get a m/c off-set adapter to.

All kinds of variables from Our Mother Mopar. :thumrigh:

A1-Cardone 10475 Master Cylinder

PS: Wrapping the m/c with some heat wrap, i.e this starter, might be a good decission to.
Check out Thermo Tec.
Click to expand...





hello johnnydart do you happen to have the Part code number for the offset master cylinder adapter :D. I am having problems with the clearance with the new "Mopar performance" valve covers that I installed. Did you installed your master cylinder, would like to see pictures as reference. I will be adding pictures tonight :coffee2: of the up to date progress and problems i am having maybe it can help others as well. Great advice on this :wink: .
 
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