Fenderwell headers too Close to Master Cylinder Line

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Mopar King

Mopar King

Beginner / Need of Help
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is there a way to get the master cylinder line away from the header? I have a project 1973 Dodge dart sport 440 Engine and Hooker Super competition fenderwell headers. :toothy7:

I heard of the master cylinder heat shield which is one option to protect the line from Heating up but is there another way?


Thanks.
 
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wow thats nuts running that line there. couldn't ya run it to the firewall and down or something?
 
Use the heat shield. It is available thru many vendors. Reroute the lines up and back to the firewall. The fluid isn't moving unless your pressing on the pedal and it won't take much heat to cook what little is in those lines right at the header pipes.
 
Boy I agree, I'd be re-routing that tube. I'm surprised the head doesn't melt the plastic reservoir
 
There may be more clearance than the angle of the pictures reveal. What would worry me is a longer drive where your not applying the brakes much. The fluid won't be cycling back and forth in the line and the headers are good and hot for an extended time. We're probably talking only a few cc's of fluid in that area. Boil the fluid out or burn it and plug the line it still equals brake failure, usually when you need them the most. You have a beautiful car by the way and obviously take great pride in it. Not trying to knock you, just something to consider.
 
And that's on a small block, is even closer on a big block.
On my 400 with 2" header I mounted the cylinder the same way as pettybludart rerouted the lines and used header wrap.
 
I shot a few pictures to see how close the lines are to the headers. This is how it was when I bought the car. original owner dented the Headers in to avoid the lines.

when you dent or have a dented header does it affect its performance / Flow?


is their a higher master cylinder or a master cylinder re locator/adapter?

pettybludart: Thanks for the pictures, what car and engine is that? for the Master Shield and Dot 5 racing brake fluid, I think it is a must for me, that's if I can fit a heat shield :cry:. very less than an inch and that's with the dent!

I took the headers and master cylinder off today to strip off the old paint of my engine compartment and planning on buying new hooker Fender well headers but got to find a solution to the master cylinder lines, any help
 

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Guys,my car sees 1/4 mile at a time LOL.If I drive it on the street,it,s for tuning or to a local car show(not to often)thats it.Anyway,if you get yourself a 2 post master cylinder and attach to the 2 top posts(might have to open up the hole for master cyl),get a sheild,change to Dot 5 fluid and re-route your brake lines.Hopefully this will help you.Good luck.

P.S My car is a 66 Dart with 410 sb/904 narrowed 8 3/4.Car runs 11.0 consistant and has ran a best of 10.81@124mph 60 fts 1.50 1/8 6.83@100mph.I,ve added some new goodies this winter to get me 10.50,s and I,ll be happy with that.
View attachment New 24 foot Enclosed trailer Oct.2010 027.jpg

View attachment New 24 foot Enclosed trailer Oct.2010 046.jpg

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/video.php?do=viewdetails&videoid=86
 
pettybludart said:
I,ve never once had a braking problem with 70 passes and some street duty.
Click to expand...


People never have a problem until they do. Those guys running the CAP upper control arms never had a problem until they split in half behind the ball joint.......

The pics in post #11 are scary. If a motor mount lets go, those lines will be wiped out (possibly the driver and passengers too).

Wonder if anyone has a MC (off brand, after market or whatever) where the lines exit on the engine side, and will fit an a-body. That would be a good option.
 
is this the master cylinder: Classic Performance M-83028
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-M-83028/

can I still use the old Push rod or do I need a new one?
I need to Cut the hole a little upward for the push rod to enter its new position where the new master cylinder is? any changes on the inside of the car when I push the push rod up to its new position?


Nice 10.81 second 1966 Dart by the way, looks like a mean machine:thumrigh:
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
People never have a problem until they do. Those guys running the CAP upper control arms never had a problem until they split in half behind the ball joint.......

The pics in post #11 are scary. If a motor mount lets go, those lines will be wiped out (possibly the driver and passengers too).

Wonder if anyone has a MC (off brand, after market or whatever) where the lines exit on the engine side, and will fit an a-body. That would be a good option.
Click to expand...
I,m running solid mounts and a strap,so no movement for now.My engine is out now,while the car is getting body/paint done.When I get it back I,ll have to do some RSI (Race Scene Investigating)LOL.

On the CAP stuff,I,m not gonna get into it,but welds don,t just break from driving a car.If that was thhe case lawsuits would be rampid not only with CAP products,but with others too.Lots of guys using them with no issues.
 
Mopar King said:
is this the master cylinder: Classic Performance M-83028
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLP-M-83028/

can I still use the old Push rod or do I need a new one?
I need to Cut the hole a little upward for the push rod to enter its new position where the new master cylinder is? any changes on the inside of the car when I push the push rod up to its new position?


Nice 10.81 second 1966 Dart by the way, looks like a mean machine:thumrigh:
Click to expand...
Thanks Mopar King for comments on my Junk LOL.
I bought an adjustable rod from Mopar Performance.It was too long still and I ended up cutting and rewelding to fit.Which I could,ve just done with the original?Your gonna have to do a bunch of measuring X2,you can do it!

Oh,my headers being coated really keep the heat down(you,d be amazed):love4:cool down time is super fast,which comes in handy at the track inbetween runs for adjustments.
 
Point being..... Things happen. Just because they haven't happened yet doesn't mean something is right. I see room for improvement in both example pics (but, as I said the pics in post #11 are very bad).

The CAP thing was just an example.

I could have used anything......
 
I didn,t say it was right,just I haven,t had any problems with brakeing/stopping.It does,nt mean it,s right,it,s just the way it is.Always looking for ways to improve,as I said I will look for ways to fix.I through the car together in 6 months last winter and that was a quick short cut.I will fix it.:yawinkle:
 
Mopar King, do you have disc or drum brakes on front of your car? Quite a while back I bought a rebuilt master cylinder for my wife's V8 Mustang II. Didn't pay much attention to it when I bought it & I had it a long time and the box was destroyed by the time I went to put it on. Then I found out the fluid lines were on the right side so the MC wouldn't work on the car. No box so I couldn't return it. Had to get another one. I've still got the incorrect MC around here somewhere & would let it go for next to nothing if you think there's a chance it would work for you. Looks a lot like what you have but it's for a disc brake car & lines are on the opposite side.
 
1968FormulaS340 : I know, it looks very bad that's why I want to change everything and update parts little by little. I just hope I can get everything Ready around the summer and making sure everything is safe and secure. [-o<


'64 Cuda: I have disc Brakes on the Front and Drums on the back. Can a Ford Master Cylinder fit on a Dodge? I searched at autozone website and it does look the same and maybe it can fit. is this it - for a 1979 Ford Mustang V8 Manual Brakes:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...mString=search&itemIdentifier=486242_0_0_3482


It says it comes with Push rod, can the ford push rod be used? If I can use the ford Master Cylinder to safely reroute my brake lines away from my headers , then I wouldn't mind having a ford part.
 
pettybludart said:
I,m running solid mounts and a strap,so no movement for now.My engine is out now,while the car is getting body/paint done.When I get it back I,ll have to do some RSI (Race Scene Investigating)LOL.
Click to expand...



:hello2:your welcome Pettybludart, do you happen to have old pictures or info of the strap and motor mounts? I would like to see how they look like. I gotta make a list of what I need to make the dart sport drivable and safe. sorry but very new to the Big Block family :sign2:
 
I have the same clearance problems. I havent had a problem yet. I'd rather find a solution before something shitty happens though. Mancini and Summit sell a SSBC brand MC for $377 that will accept lines to either side of MC.

If anyone finds a solution that works, post sum pics :bounce:. I may buy that SSBC MC before long.

Bad Shrimp
 
Mopar King said:
1968FormulaS340 : I know, it looks very bad that's why I want to change everything and update parts little by little. I just hope I can get everything Ready around the summer and making sure everything is safe and secure. [-o<


'64 Cuda: I have disc Brakes on the Front and Drums on the back. Can a Ford Master Cylinder fit on a Dodge? I searched at autozone website and it does look the same and maybe it can fit. is this it - for a 1979 Ford Mustang V8 Manual Brakes:
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...mString=search&itemIdentifier=486242_0_0_3482


It says it comes with Push rod, can the ford push rod be used? If I can use the ford Master Cylinder to safely reroute my brake lines away from my headers , then I wouldn't mind having a ford part.
Click to expand...

I looked at the MC in the link. My wife has a '77 Mustang, but that looks a lot like the MC I have so it might be what they sent me. The one I have is for power brakes so I don't think it has a push rod. Just used whatever was poking out of the booster. I forgot about it having 2 mounting studs instead of 4. I know there's an adapter available for Mopars to convert from 4 to 2 studs or, like I think somebody else posted earlier on this thread, you might be able to just move it up to the top set of studs. I'll try to look in the garage this afternoon & see if I can find the cylinder.
 
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