Filling holes after panel bond

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HankRearden

HankRearden

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I built the lower rear quarter sections for my 70 and I installed them by flangeing the quarter and gluing with panel bond. I held the patch tight white a bunch of sheet metal screws.
Now how do i fill the holes? Can I mig weld them shut ? DO I need to use more panel bond,maybe using a piece of tape for a backer?
 
The panel bond may or may not contaminate the weld,use a piece of brass behind the hole and give it a shot.
It would be better to weld holes than to fill them.
 
I would NOT put heat to a bonded joint. The biggest thing is to keep moisture from getting into your filler, so if you don't plug them, the filler will swell everywhere a hole is. I would spread a thin layer of fiberglass filler on the back side to seal it and then do a thin layer on the front as well, then fill out with regular filler and you should be fine.
 
I think the idea is to leave the screw in and grind them flush.
I’ve seen it done that way. I sure would like to see that GTO today to see how well it has held up. We did a mustang and glued the fender extensions with JB weld. You could see the seams after it was painted.
 
HankRearden said:
I built the lower rear quarter sections for my 70 and I installed them by flangeing the quarter and gluing with panel bond. I held the patch tight white a bunch of sheet metal screws.
Now how do i fill the holes? Can I mig weld them shut ? DO I need to use more panel bond,maybe using a piece of tape for a backer?
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Panel bond and plastic fillers do not get along. You really need to keep it to a minimum. I’d glue the screws back in and grind them flush.
 
Any pics..before I got my welder I used panelbond 3m...I like it...did a trunk pan in my Dad's 72 Chevelle..very powerful stuff..

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Mtrhead said:
Any pics..before I got my welder I used panelbond 3m...I like it...did a trunk pan in my Dad's 72 Chevelle..very powerful stuff..

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Sire I'll share pics. I'm sure the body guys will be appalled and the restoration crowd will hate me.
This car was a basket case destined to be a parts car.
I built the panels,trunk extension and quarter patch from the roof of another gutted and roached 70 dart.
I didnt have much but rust and bondo to pattern from.
I'm fairly satisfied. A bunch of fiberglass will make it a lot nicer.

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Most of the time the panel bond that comes in contact with body filler will heave. Especially in heat like a bake cycle or the sun. Glue the pinch weld areas and weld the seams... never fails.
 
HankRearden said:
Sire I'll share pics. I'm sure the body guys will be appalled and the restoration crowd will hate me.
This car was a basket case destined to be a parts car.
I built the panels,trunk extension and quarter patch from the roof of another gutted and roached 70 dart.
I didnt have much but rust and bondo to pattern from.
I'm fairly satisfied. A bunch of fiberglass will make it a lot nicer.

View attachment 1715944624

View attachment 1715944625

View attachment 1715944626
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No hate here. Do your thing. Learn and teach. That’s the beauty of a discussion forum.
 
Bodyperson said:
No hate here. Do your thing. Learn and teach. That’s the beauty of a discussion forum.
Click to expand...
Im trying like hell to learn. I kind of enjoyed shaping sheetmetal. It took all day to make those two pieces.
 
67Dart440GT said:
Most of the time the panel bond that comes in contact with body filler will heave. Especially in heat like a bake cycle or the sun. Glue the pinch weld areas and weld the seams... never fails.
Click to expand...
So you don't think fiberglass will stick to the panel bond? If thats the case Im screwed.
 
Bodyperson said:
Thats my favorite part of collision repair. Reversing the dent.
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Im still working on the rrest of that quarter. It was caved in. I welded nails to it and cobbled together a slide hammer and started pulling until I got sick of it. Ill hit it again this week. Im having a hell of a time making a piece to repair the bottom of the fender. It is deceptive;y difficult. The quarter repair was easier.

I dont have any "body tools". I made the beads in the trunk extension with some wood scraps and an air hammer. I bent the bottom flange with two pieces of angle iron.
I used the curve in the roof metal to my advantage and added to it by wrapping it around my torch tanks.
This may be a crude way to do it but I kind of like doing things with less.
 
HankRearden said:
Im still working on the rrest of that quarter. It was caved in. I welded nails to it and cobbled together a slide hammer and started pulling until I got sick of it. Ill hit it again this week. Im having a hell of a time making a piece to repair the bottom of the fender. It is deceptive;y difficult. The quarter repair was easier.

I dont have any "body tools". I made the beads in the trunk extension with some wood scraps and an air hammer. I bent the bottom flange with two pieces of angle iron.
I used the curve in the roof metal to my advantage and added to it by wrapping it around my torch tanks.
This may be a crude way to do it but I kind of like doing things with less.
Click to expand...
I made the bottom 1/4 patch panels for my Barracuda out of a 1970 Chevy box side and the lip is from an explore.
 
Bodyperson said:
Ya, that seam is nasty. They recommend grinding a bevel on the overlapping panel.
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Thanks for the tip. I left a gap for squeeze out and to fill. I can grind the panel bond out of it pretty easy I guess.
 
HankRearden said:
I usually use bondo glass. The short hair stuff. Not the tiger hair stuff. Is duraglass different?
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Duraglass doesn't have any visible hair in it. It does however get hard enough to drill and tap it. It is a great product.
 
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67Dart440GT said:
Duraglass doesn't have any visible hair in it. It dies however get hard enough to drill and tap it. It is a great product.
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looks like its cheaper than bondo glass also.thanks for the tip. I like saving a few bucks and still getting a good product
 
So here is an update with some pics. I have pronounced the quarter and roof side panel good enough.
After the patches and filler work, I used some 10 year old filler primer I had in the basement with some new hardener. Disregard the primer drips at the wheel opening. I had a little boo boo and they will razor blade off.The white is a coat of rustoleum clean metal primer I hardened with majic hardener and went over the filler primer as I has three little drips that I had to sand out. Good enough for a daily driver. Unfortunately every section of this car has patches in it so I am working basically one panel at a time.

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