Finish my recipe for me?

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vntned

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So I'm about to start getting together the last of my bits for my 360 swap into my '64 Dart. I've got a few blanks I need filled in. The plan for this car is a fun daily driver/cruiser. Not a race car or a miser but somewhere in between.

The engine will be backed by an A833 OD and an 8.25" rear with 3.55s an a SureGrip.

The current engine specs are as follows:

-'70 cast 360 block
-.060" over SpeedPro Hyperutectic H116CP 0.010" in the hole (9.8:1cr)
-Stock crank and rods
-Double roller timing chain
-Stock cast 587 J heads, rebuilt with hardened seats and SS 1.88"/1.60" valves
-Comp valve springs and lifters
-Comp 268H cam (.454 lift 268dur, 218dur @ 50)
-Wieand ActionPlus dual plain intake
-Doug's D450 headers

The pieces left in the puzzle are:
Carb size-650cfm or 750cfm?
Cam size- should I go bigger?
Valve size- should I bother swapping the 1.88s for 2.02s?
Clutch- what kind should I get?

Thanks for the help guys!
 
vntned said:
So I'm about to start getting together the last of my bits for my 360 swap into my '64 Dart. I've got a few blanks I need filled in. The plan for this car is a fun daily driver/cruiser. Not a race car or a miser but somewhere in between.

The engine will be backed by an A833 OD and an 8.25" rear with 3.55s an a SureGrip.

The current engine specs are as follows:

-'70 cast 360 block
-.060" over SpeedPro Hyperutectic H116CP 0.010" in the hole (9.8:1cr)
-Stock crank and rods
-Double roller timing chain
Add chain tensioner
-Stock cast 587 J heads, rebuilt with hardened seats and SS 1.88"/1.60" valves
-Comp valve springs and lifters
-Comp 268H cam (.454 lift 268dur, 218dur @ 50)
-Wieand ActionPlus dual plain intake
-Doug's D450 headers

The pieces left in the puzzle are:
Carb size-650cfm or 750cfm? 750 double pumper -- tuned
Cam size- should I go bigger? That's a decent street cam
Valve size- should I bother swapping the 1.88s for 2.02s? You could, but those should suffice, maybe do a home porting of sorts -- winter is coming.
Clutch- what kind should I get?

I'm no guru when it comes to 4 speeds, but if it were mine I would go with a McCleod or Centerforce, remember it's the critical connection from engine to drivetrain.

Thanks for the help guys!
Click to expand...
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With the bore job, you will be balancing the rotating assembly, have it internally balanced. It will make finding a flywheel much easier; 360 flywheels can be hard to com by.
 
The engine described above is what I currently have on the stand. It was rebuilt to those specs around 15k miles ago.

Already scored a new balanced flywheel.
 
Carb size-650cfm DP throttle response will be better and it will rev. Buy one with replacable air bleeds. Get a wideband AFR you will not regret it.
Cam size- should I go bigger? You could run the Summit 228@50 480/480 cam It's a good street/strip cam and behaves on the street.
Valve size- should I bother swapping the 1.88s for 2.02s? Stay with the 1.88 A bowl cleanup and mild port job does wonders.
Clutch- what kind should I get? Centerforce
 
I don't know what you should do about the other stuff, but I drove a 400 hp sb Duster with a Centerforce clutch and man that thing was smooth. The clutch pedal was lighter than my daily driver which is 5 years old.
 
I've had Centerforce clutches in other cars and loved them, that's probably what I'll go with.

As far as carbs go, what kind of differences would there be between the 650cfm vs the 750cfm? Would th economy be noticeably better with the 650cfm? How much power would a 750cfm gain over a 650?

Thanks guys! Keep the good advice coming!
 
vntned said:
As far as carbs go, what kind of differences would there be between the 650cfm vs the 750cfm? Would th economy be noticeably better with the 650cfm? How much power would a 750cfm gain over a 650?
Click to expand...

Bigger card doesn't automatically mean worse mileage
A bigger carb is less restrictive you could make an argument that too restrictive of a carb can kill mileage through pumping loss.

If you car never see the track 650 is fine
 
9.8 with iron heads and that little cam on pump gas? Good luck with that.I would step up to something in the neighborhood of 236* @ .050 ground on a 110. The car is certainly light enough. With a 3.09 first gear, she wont have any trouble comin outta the hole. Even with the OD I think with the car's light weight, you wont have any trouble sustaining high gear even on light inclines. You need more cam. Period.
 
This ^^^^^ or a very thick head gasket!

Do you want a street machine or more of a driver? Your combo is IMO split on the two. More cam and a bigger carb (750) or the 650 with the current cam and a slight drop in the ratio. 9.5-1 max with high octane, 9.0-1 is better.
 
So the easy, more street friendly fix would be to put on some thick head gaskets. How thick of a head gasket would be needed to drop half a point?
 
I don't agree with losing compression ,I prefer a different camshaft... I LOVE the 268 H Comp, it works well, just not with a higher comp mill. I like this one,from Crane..https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...CgZoxjS26JQgGIw6g&sig2=X34lEK_0RYQr8BbM4kmi6w

Bleeds off cylinder pressure, people ***** too much about head gaskets. Longer exhaust duration,always does bleed off cyl psi .... Run combination s like this,on 89 Cali pee water.. Do some research, on the "search " feature.. Read for yourself( if you have time..), ask questions. Take time,& make an educated decision.
 
Try wallaceracing.com on there left is a bar that has a ton of stuff including a compression ratio calculator a ways down. Cosmetic has many thickness sized gaskets to choose from.

Abomber, a slight drop in the ratio would be good for the small cam. It gets tied to feed a basic my 10-1 ratio engine with a small cam and only have 93 octane, or in some states, 91.

With the current ratio, RRR cam is as small as I would bother with. (236*@.050.) And then I'd step up in gear to 3.91's. It would make a nice street machine package.
 
I will just add, use the centerforce clutch, they are awesome on the street.
 
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