Finished Chassis Pics

  • Thread starter Thread starter Ace
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Ace

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Finally got around to processing some pics of the chassis work I did on the Duster almost a year ago. Good shots of the frame connectors and traction bars. Some unique designs with ideas here for anyone who may be interested. Of particular note is how the SFC front connection lips under all the way into the forward subrame section. Easy to do, exponential torsional strength increase. The rear bar pivots are welded on C-body shock plates and put togeter with grade 8 bolts. Bulletproof.

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_39.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_40.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_41.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_42.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_43.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_44.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/duster_45.jpg
 
Looks good ACE, I was thinking about holding out for the laser cut ones that conform to the floor pans, but I just don't know if the extra cash is worth it, yours look pretty good to me, and look to have increased benefits from the added lengths.
 

Not really, the 2x3 tubing goes in like that with no cutting. I ground the top edge of the tubing to mate flush where it meets the floor in the rear and forced it into position by welding the bottom rear and then jacking it up into place in the front. Wedged it in there nice 'n tight. Welded in to the floor and all around the front and rear joins from there.
 
Was that a cast iron 3/4" tee? I wouldn't put that much trust in that. It might shatter and let the bar drop.
 
Then again, it might not. No problem dumping the clutch at 4krpm through 3.73s w/a Powertrax locker on dry pavement. It hooks hard.
 
I used 3/16. Probably overkill and an extra 10 pounds or so, but I wanted maximum effect. The square tubing slips over the rear rail real tight. I had to bevel the inside edges a bit and hammer it up in there.
 
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