Yes it will, rotate each plug wire around the cap 4 places.
As long as #1 is number plug hits where #1 wire is pointing it will run.
Re-think just what you posted.
firing order 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
- Thread starter Pawned
- Start date
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Yes it will, rotate each plug wire around the cap 4 places.
As long as #1 is number plug hits where #1 wire is pointing it will run.
Re-think just what you posted.
this presupposes the 'timing' ring on the dampner has not spun...
Rubber ? shear = degree wheel indication of advanced timing.
Back to basics,
90* crankshaft verify # 1 cyl intake valve has 'rolled' closed, watch the dampner
degree ring ... the mechanical does not lie!
At that point it's not 180* out is it? Rotating the wires to compensate for a dizzy dropped in incorrectly, now makes it work.
The dizzy was 180 out and running, a member here helped him set the distributor and plug wires correct.
It starts now.
It starts now.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I imagine that it is just a coincidence that my A/C leaked out its refrigerant. If it is not one thing it is another
moe7404
moe7404
Mopar single fire V8 dist cap wiring
My dad made this saying about small and big block dist cap wireing. To reduce wiring confuseion. the small block has the dist in the wrong place, in the back of the engine. BUT the shaft rotates the right way clockwise. The big block has the dist in the right place, in the front of the engine BUT the shaft rotates the wrong direction counterclockwise. Both wire #5 and #7 on both ALL ways have #5 before #7 on the cap AND block. And most / some stock V8s have the fireing order cast in to the intake manifold. And more info: if the cap has a vent hole next to the center tower. Plug it with JB-weld.
My dad made this saying about small and big block dist cap wireing. To reduce wiring confuseion. the small block has the dist in the wrong place, in the back of the engine. BUT the shaft rotates the right way clockwise. The big block has the dist in the right place, in the front of the engine BUT the shaft rotates the wrong direction counterclockwise. Both wire #5 and #7 on both ALL ways have #5 before #7 on the cap AND block. And most / some stock V8s have the fireing order cast in to the intake manifold. And more info: if the cap has a vent hole next to the center tower. Plug it with JB-weld.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
Why plug the vent hole??? It has a cap already on it.
TylerW
Well-Known Member
What he MEANS is that it won't run 180 out with the wires in the correct location. You're trying too hard to correct people.
Of course you can walk the wires around to the point where it will run which is obviously what the OP had to do.
I would buy a cheap piston stop and start over so the distributor is oriented the right way.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
The only way to get it adjusted to 90 degrees is remove the distributor and move the sprocket 90 degrees. I tried to move it 180 degrees and the vacuum advance was in a worse position that where it draff
383Scampman
Well-Known Member
Motors Manuals are available used for your car. Mopar Performance has books that help,too. FSM's are available online, also. They are there to HELP you. Sometimes if you see it in print it helps visualize the outcome. m It is amazing what a $20 investment in liturature will do.
Not exactly. I said locate TDC. I didn't say do it with the damper marks.
When I build an engine I find TDC with a dial indicator or TDC dead stop tool. That removes any damper error from the equation and is the most accurate way of finding TDC.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Lots over overthinking going on.
1.......It matters not where the distributor is, if the rotor is pointing at the no6 cylinder plug wire when no1 should be firing that IS THE definition of "180 out"
2......The only reason on these cars "why" there's a "specific way" of installing the distributor is so
A.....The assembly line folks can wrench, repeat
B.....The plug wires "lay nice"
C....The mechanics that come after "see what they expect to see."
THE REALITY
You don't even need to know "where it's supposed to be"
You don't need to know the firing order
You don't need to know, because you can figure it out. Good example was an old case tractor Dad and I restored. We didn't know the firing order, it was either 1342 or 1432. We figured it out by cranking it over and determining what cylinder came up on compression at what point in rotation
So..........
1.....As some have said, USE A PISTON STOP and check timing marks. Very very important, and not more than a 1/2 hour job the first time you do so
2....You can "throw" the distributor gear in any old way. It simply does not matter
3....You can "toss" the distributor in next and IT does not matter.
4....Stick your finger in no1. Bump until you feel compression. Then watch the marks carefully as they will be "coming up." This puts you on no1 "ready to fire" and PREVENTS being "180 out" because this insure no1 is on the compression stroke
5....Bring the marks up to "where you want timing." 10 BTC, etc
6....Rotate the distributor so the vacuum can has "plenty of room." If you have points, RETARD to make sure the points are CLOSED, then slowly ADVANCE the distributor (CCW) until the points open. Use a light, ohmeter, whtever . If it's breakerless, rotate until the reluctor tip is in the center of the pickup coil
7....Using the cap, figure out which tower contact the rotor IS APPROACHING going clockwise
8...Plug no1 into that hole, and run the rest of the wires as per firing order, clockwise.
9....Start the engine.
=====================================
Now, you can REFINE the above. If you are picky, and want the no1 wire in "the correct hole," THIS IS WHERE the factory manual comes in, IE point the distributor gear drive tang at the front left intake manifold bolt hole. This is with the timing marks at TDC matters not whether no1 or no6 is ready to fire, and the tang can go in either 1/2 turn.
CAVEAT. Some distributors are NOT INDEXED this way, so if you "have one" that distributor IS NOT going to end up with no1 in the "correct hole." You will have to set it up, then remove the dist. and walk the gear a tooth or two to correct. Frankly, I don't bother
The old case we restored. It was a pullin motha let me tell YOU
1.......It matters not where the distributor is, if the rotor is pointing at the no6 cylinder plug wire when no1 should be firing that IS THE definition of "180 out"
2......The only reason on these cars "why" there's a "specific way" of installing the distributor is so
A.....The assembly line folks can wrench, repeat
B.....The plug wires "lay nice"
C....The mechanics that come after "see what they expect to see."
THE REALITY
You don't even need to know "where it's supposed to be"
You don't need to know the firing order
You don't need to know, because you can figure it out. Good example was an old case tractor Dad and I restored. We didn't know the firing order, it was either 1342 or 1432. We figured it out by cranking it over and determining what cylinder came up on compression at what point in rotation
So..........
1.....As some have said, USE A PISTON STOP and check timing marks. Very very important, and not more than a 1/2 hour job the first time you do so
2....You can "throw" the distributor gear in any old way. It simply does not matter
3....You can "toss" the distributor in next and IT does not matter.
4....Stick your finger in no1. Bump until you feel compression. Then watch the marks carefully as they will be "coming up." This puts you on no1 "ready to fire" and PREVENTS being "180 out" because this insure no1 is on the compression stroke
5....Bring the marks up to "where you want timing." 10 BTC, etc
6....Rotate the distributor so the vacuum can has "plenty of room." If you have points, RETARD to make sure the points are CLOSED, then slowly ADVANCE the distributor (CCW) until the points open. Use a light, ohmeter, whtever . If it's breakerless, rotate until the reluctor tip is in the center of the pickup coil
7....Using the cap, figure out which tower contact the rotor IS APPROACHING going clockwise
8...Plug no1 into that hole, and run the rest of the wires as per firing order, clockwise.
9....Start the engine.
=====================================
Now, you can REFINE the above. If you are picky, and want the no1 wire in "the correct hole," THIS IS WHERE the factory manual comes in, IE point the distributor gear drive tang at the front left intake manifold bolt hole. This is with the timing marks at TDC matters not whether no1 or no6 is ready to fire, and the tang can go in either 1/2 turn.
CAVEAT. Some distributors are NOT INDEXED this way, so if you "have one" that distributor IS NOT going to end up with no1 in the "correct hole." You will have to set it up, then remove the dist. and walk the gear a tooth or two to correct. Frankly, I don't bother
The old case we restored. It was a pullin motha let me tell YOU
Bulldozer
free ice cream sandwiches
I swear Del , you are like the only one that gets it. it is truly amazing how so many people let their cars sit and rot in a garage because they are so dead set on the rotor pointing to the #1 cylinder and cannot figure it out. people sit around and demand that the rotor MUST be pointing to #1 and they end up throwing wrenches and slam the garage door shut. the fricking rotor can be pointing to New Zealand as long as it is firing the #1 cylinder on the cap at TDC
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Thanks, but I do understand some guys like to "get it right."
Years ago, when I "was in parts" we had a guy who's out of town for much of the year, ordered up an exchange short block for a Y block Ford. He came back, time passed, and could not get it to run. This was a 292 Y block Ford. I really don't know much about 'em.
I had mentioned some offfhand comment, "if you can't get it fired I'd be happy to take a look." so he called me.
Now I didn't know which way the dist. was even supposed to TURN. My usual trick is to simply "spring" the rotor against the advance. If it turns CW, you can spring it CW. So the valve covers are off, I checked TDC, got both no1 valves closed, set it up.
IT WOULD NOT RUN. Screwin 'round. Messin' round. Bad words. I don't remember. I finally wised up and checked. Sure enough, this was a REVERSE ROTATION engine in a single engine boat. The rebuilder HAD NOT checked and set over a rebuilt engine for a vehicle.
Of course the downside of this is that somewhere, out there, some old Farmer had his ol' Ford pickup that got that original marine crank......... could not figure out why that rear main always leaked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
============================================
My first car was a beat - up 57 Chev 265. Hell I didn't even KNOW there was a "right way" to install the distributor for quite awhile. One day I went into the local filling station, remember when they checked your oil? Even for a buck or two of gas???? The station guy told me, "how does that thing run, it's out of time?"
"How can you tell?" says I
"The wires are all wrong on the distributor!!!"
Guess he never wondered why I drove it in and out of the station just fine!!
Years ago, when I "was in parts" we had a guy who's out of town for much of the year, ordered up an exchange short block for a Y block Ford. He came back, time passed, and could not get it to run. This was a 292 Y block Ford. I really don't know much about 'em.
I had mentioned some offfhand comment, "if you can't get it fired I'd be happy to take a look." so he called me.
Now I didn't know which way the dist. was even supposed to TURN. My usual trick is to simply "spring" the rotor against the advance. If it turns CW, you can spring it CW. So the valve covers are off, I checked TDC, got both no1 valves closed, set it up.
IT WOULD NOT RUN. Screwin 'round. Messin' round. Bad words. I don't remember. I finally wised up and checked. Sure enough, this was a REVERSE ROTATION engine in a single engine boat. The rebuilder HAD NOT checked and set over a rebuilt engine for a vehicle.
Of course the downside of this is that somewhere, out there, some old Farmer had his ol' Ford pickup that got that original marine crank......... could not figure out why that rear main always leaked!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
============================================
My first car was a beat - up 57 Chev 265. Hell I didn't even KNOW there was a "right way" to install the distributor for quite awhile. One day I went into the local filling station, remember when they checked your oil? Even for a buck or two of gas???? The station guy told me, "how does that thing run, it's out of time?"
"How can you tell?" says I
"The wires are all wrong on the distributor!!!"
Guess he never wondered why I drove it in and out of the station just fine!!
I knew a guy that worked for the local village. One of his tasks was to rebuild some marine engines. He said that he rebuilt two mopar 318 marine blocks, one standard spin, one reverse spin.
The engines sat around for a while as they were backup engines jic. He said one day that the reverse spin engine disappeared. Someone stole it. He said that they were going to get a big surprise if they tried to put it in a car and run it.... :violent1:
I would amaze the unsuspecting guy by static timing a engine to tdc, line the balancer to 10 deg. before, stick a screwdriver down #1 wire and slowly twist the dist. until it would jump a spark, and tighten the dist. down. Bingo! Timing set at 10 deg btdc! Don't need no darned timing light! lol tmm
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I learned this in the early 70's. I was helping a guy time a VeeDub which I had never done. Static time with a 12V lamp. "It it works on VW..........."
You can even do this "accurate enough" to start with magnetic.
You set the engine up where you want it timed, maybe add a few degrees
Key on, coil wire hooked to a screwdriver, you retard, then advance the dist until it triggers. You have to "move" it with a magnetic pickup. You keep going back and forth, maybe, 5 times...............this only takes a few seconds...........until you get a "feel" for where the dist. is when it triggers, and to "slow down" the movement for better accuracy.
This is plenty accurate enough to fire up an engine.
Once you get it close, you can also use a timing light "on the starter."
Google up 'how to time an airplane' sometime
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