flasher stays hot
- Thread starter gord18
- Start date
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mopa713602
Well-Known Member
Yu sure it isnt your hazard flasher?? It could be that it is that hazard flasher ad its not working properly. They will try to flash even with key off. Replace it and see what happens.
This is my daughters car. a few months ago the flashers quit working. I found the flasher (by the ash tray) and noticed that it was hot. She ordered a new one and had it installed, and everything was good. then her battery went dead so she put in a new one, that lasted two days and it was dead. while I was rescuing her I pulled the pos cable and it died, so I rebuilt the alt, pulled the cable and it died again, so I changed the voltage reg and now it runs with the battery disconected, but now the wipers have quit, the battery still goes dead, and the new flasher is so hot you can barely touch it. Where could it get power with the key off? Could a faulty signal switch be killing all the other components? Do I have to pull the steering wheel to check it?
I have worked on my own stuff quite a bit, but I never owned a dodge, so this is all new to me, I can't even figure out how to get the steering wheel off.
I have worked on my own stuff quite a bit, but I never owned a dodge, so this is all new to me, I can't even figure out how to get the steering wheel off.
1970PAValiant
master of the break down
sounds like you have constant power to the turn signal relay hence it getting too hot. you might want to get a test light and see if there is constant power to it. if there is just follow the wire back to the battery, you might have a spot that the cover of the wire is open and it is melted with another wire getting constant power
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
First, DO NOT EVER "check" an alternator by disconnecting the battery
1 It doesn't prove anything. An alternator could have some blown diodes/ other problem, and only putting out a small percentage of rated power, and might "pass" this so called test
2 If the engine doesn't happen to be running fast enough, it'll die anyway
3 The big problem is that the more and more electronic devices you have, the better the chance is that you'll "kill" something like your stereo.
Doing this sends a TREMENDOUS high voltage surge across the battery 12V buss, and can kill tachometers, radios, voltage regulators, and so on.
AS FAR AS your flasher.
ARE YOU absolutely sure you are not feeling around up there and getting ahold of the cigarette lighter?
First thing to do is get a test lamp, and with the car parked and shut off, and allow enough time to be sure the thing IS getting warm, take a test lamp and check
the two blade terminals
and the case
to see if there is power there.
Next pull the flasher out, and check the two connector terminals to see which terminal is hot. Notice the wire color and refer to a diagram to see where it comes from, that is, the power side, or the column side.
Look for evidence that the harness has been chopped up. If this is TRUELY the signal flasher and not the 4 way flasher, it should only get power with the key "on."
I will say this This sounds like a strange problem.
With the key off there should be no power
With the signal switch centered, there should be no load. In other words, both connections of the flasher "should" go nowhere.
1 It doesn't prove anything. An alternator could have some blown diodes/ other problem, and only putting out a small percentage of rated power, and might "pass" this so called test
2 If the engine doesn't happen to be running fast enough, it'll die anyway
3 The big problem is that the more and more electronic devices you have, the better the chance is that you'll "kill" something like your stereo.
Doing this sends a TREMENDOUS high voltage surge across the battery 12V buss, and can kill tachometers, radios, voltage regulators, and so on.
AS FAR AS your flasher.
ARE YOU absolutely sure you are not feeling around up there and getting ahold of the cigarette lighter?
First thing to do is get a test lamp, and with the car parked and shut off, and allow enough time to be sure the thing IS getting warm, take a test lamp and check
the two blade terminals
and the case
to see if there is power there.
Next pull the flasher out, and check the two connector terminals to see which terminal is hot. Notice the wire color and refer to a diagram to see where it comes from, that is, the power side, or the column side.
Look for evidence that the harness has been chopped up. If this is TRUELY the signal flasher and not the 4 way flasher, it should only get power with the key "on."
I will say this This sounds like a strange problem.
With the key off there should be no power
With the signal switch centered, there should be no load. In other words, both connections of the flasher "should" go nowhere.
OK it is not the signal or emergency flasher as they both work with it out. but it is by the ash tray and has three prongs one pink and two yellow. the pink has power. I can't find anything on the wiring diagram, the dome light also works with it out. any idea what this is?
Thanks 67Dart for figuring out what the part is, now would a new one correct the problem, or is there a short somewhere down the line? I tried getting the map light working a while ago, but gave up cuz the switch terminals are corroded. I am thinking we can live without it.
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