Flat Tappet Camshaft Replacement

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RustyRatRod

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Since we don't have a specific "non Mopar" discussion forum, I'm putting this here. Back in February, my truck, a 1975 Ford F250, with a 400 engine I built fresh about three years ago, suddenly lost oil pressure.

I did all the diagnosis I could with the engine in the truck and ultimately pulled the engine and tore it back down. While I did find a VERY small pinhole in the oil filter case, I never found what I considered a smoking gun for a loss of oil pressure. So, I made some mods, per the 351M and 400 engine guru Timothy Meyer (look him up) refreshed the engine and put it back in.

Since a few lifters exhibited some straight pattern wear, I opted to put a new cam and lifter set from Summit in this time. That proved to be a mistake. Although I should have checked to see if the lifters were spinning before complete assembly, I did not and I should have.

Other than "that" I did what I consider to be everything right. I lubed the cam and lifters with ZDDP paste, and assembled. I honestly didn't think about checking for lifter rotation. "I figgered" since everything was new, It'd be alright. That proved to be very wrong. I fixed the oil pressure problem, as the engine immediately fired and I ran the RPM up into the 3K range varying the RPM from 2000 to around 3500. It had an old Stewart Warner 80PSI gauge buried. Even at idle.

But the more it ran, the lower the idle oil pressure got. After an hours worth of run time, I was showing under 20PSI and I had valve train noise with a noticeably rough running engine. I pulled the valve cover and I had several rockers not opening valves very far. So at that point, I drained the oil and removed and cut the filter open. Yup. Stopped up with ground up lifters. It destroyed six lifters badly and the rest weren't good.

So now, I have everything cleaned back up, and @NC Engine Builder (Sean) has been nice enough to reface some NEW lifters I am going to put on this old Crane Fireball cam that has about three years run time. The cam itself looks good. Maybe even better than good.

I mocked everything up as Sean suggested with the cam and lifters dry and used some light penetrating oil on the lifter sides. I stuck the cam and new refaced lifters in, marked the lifter tops with a black marker and rotated the cam. With just the weight of the lifters on the cam, the lifters were rotating. Only a few degrees with each lobe pass, but with the engine running, I believe we got it licked.

I still don't have the timing set or the intake back on it yet, but I'll keep yall posted. One thing's certain. Sean KNOWS how to put a good finish on lifters. The patterns were all perfect and all centered. So if it screws up again, it won't be Sean's fault. I plan on running Rotella T1 40SAE motor oil. If I have another problem, it's going to be down a lot longer, because I will change over to a hydraulic roller at that point.

I simply cannot afford that now. It will take cam, lifters, springs, pushrods and rocker arms and that's just out of my price range, except to do it a piece at a time. So wish me luck. I'll keep yall posted.
 
This is one of the six that was really bad. Totally not spinning.

2b6a61a5-96bb-40cc-8083-2e365d02a684~1.jpg
 
I read somewhere that lifters not being able to spin is one of the reason for a lot of these cam failures, hopefully everything works out for you this time.
 
If you weren't so far away I would give you a 460. Near bolt in from a 351m/400.
Yes they are and I almost had one. A friend was going to give me one but we decided against it, because it would totally devalue the truck it was in and he was trying to sell it.
 

What valve springs are you going to break in with?
 
What valve springs are you going to break in with?
Same single springs I've always had on the engine. If it won't break in with a single spring correctly, It's not worth the time of day. I put these on it.

They set up around 1.820-1.830. So they probably HAD around 130 on the seat when they were fresh. I machined the guides myself so I know they are right with no interference and I measured over .700 lift before coil bind so there's nothing that's binding.
 
Got the pushrods and rockers and timing set back on this morning. Now a lot of the lifters are not spinning with the spring pressure on them on just the starter. At this point, I'm not backing up. I'm tired of this whole project. It's going back together and I guess my only hope is when the engine fires, the extra speed from the engine will cause the lifters to spin properly. If it tears up again, it will be sitting here awhile.
 
Since we don't have a specific "non Mopar" discussion forum, I'm putting this here. Back in February, my truck, a 1975 Ford F250, with a 400 engine I built fresh about three years ago, suddenly lost oil pressure.

I did all the diagnosis I could with the engine in the truck and ultimately pulled the engine and tore it back down. While I did find a VERY small pinhole in the oil filter case, I never found what I considered a smoking gun for a loss of oil pressure. So, I made some mods, per the 351M and 400 engine guru Timothy Meyer (look him up) refreshed the engine and put it back in.

Since a few lifters exhibited some straight pattern wear, I opted to put a new cam and lifter set from Summit in this time. That proved to be a mistake. Although I should have checked to see if the lifters were spinning before complete assembly, I did not and I should have.

Other than "that" I did what I consider to be everything right. I lubed the cam and lifters with ZDDP paste, and assembled. I honestly didn't think about checking for lifter rotation. "I figgered" since everything was new, It'd be alright. That proved to be very wrong. I fixed the oil pressure problem, as the engine immediately fired and I ran the RPM up into the 3K range varying the RPM from 2000 to around 3500. It had an old Stewart Warner 80PSI gauge buried. Even at idle.

But the more it ran, the lower the idle oil pressure got. After an hours worth of run time, I was showing under 20PSI and I had valve train noise with a noticeably rough running engine. I pulled the valve cover and I had several rockers not opening valves very far. So at that point, I drained the oil and removed and cut the filter open. Yup. Stopped up with ground up lifters. It destroyed six lifters badly and the rest weren't good.

So now, I have everything cleaned back up, and @NC Engine Builder (Sean) has been nice enough to reface some NEW lifters I am going to put on this old Crane Fireball cam that has about three years run time. The cam itself looks good. Maybe even better than good.

I mocked everything up as Sean suggested with the cam and lifters dry and used some light penetrating oil on the lifter sides. I stuck the cam and new refaced lifters in, marked the lifter tops with a black marker and rotated the cam. With just the weight of the lifters on the cam, the lifters were rotating. Only a few degrees with each lobe pass, but with the engine running, I believe we got it licked.

I still don't have the timing set or the intake back on it yet, but I'll keep yall posted. One thing's certain. Sean KNOWS how to put a good finish on lifters. The patterns were all perfect and all centered. So if it screws up again, it won't be Sean's fault. I plan on running Rotella T1 40SAE motor oil. If I have another problem, it's going to be down a lot longer, because I will change over to a hydraulic roller at that point.

I simply cannot afford that now. It will take cam, lifters, springs, pushrods and rocker arms and that's just out of my price range, except to do it a piece at a time. So wish me luck. I'll keep yall posted.
Does the oil you're using have the right additive package for flat tappet cam break in?
 
Now a lot of the lifters are not spinning with the spring pressure on them on just the starter. At this point, I'm not backing up. I'm tired of this whole project. It's going back together and I guess my only hope is when the engine fires, the extra speed from the engine will cause the lifters to spin properly. If it tears up again, it will be sitting here awhile.
Aw, c'mon! You know better than to do that! Hell, I'm pretty sure you know what you would tell someone else here if they were in your shoes: Don't do it! Now is the time to find and fix this, not "after".

And I, too, have a 460 just sitting here you can have. Two of them, actually.....
 
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I think the other thread was on to something. If I ever do another flat tappet motor, I'm breaking that ***** in on last year's used 30wt lawnmower oil.
 
Aw, c'mon! You know better than to do that! Hell, I'm pretty sure you know what you would tell someone else here if they were in your shoes: Don't do it! Now is the time to find and fix this, not "after".
While I appreciate your candor, I gotta agree. I've gotten that advice from you. (Not specifically about this subject.) While we all would hate to have to go through the potentially tedious process of discovering the problem, whatever you find may help eliminate this wiped lifter/cam problem, in general.

I would think it's a cam/lifter material issue, rather than a lifter bore issue, since it ran well before. I've read that flat tappet stuff isn't made as well because the makers don't deal with it anymore and would rather make roller stuff. And that cam blanks aren't what they should be. There's been debates about making rollers legal in NHRA Stock/Super Stock, where they must run flat tappets if produced that way.

Also, I thought Rotella is diesel engine oil? I think this guy, The Motor Oil Geek has a video about that. He has a bunch of good videos. My partner at the time and myself had a cam wipe 30 years ago. I know about the hassle. Disassemble, clean and hope it doesn't do it again. My current project, which spun a rod, had me doing all of that cleaning just recently.
 
Aw, c'mon! You know better than to do that! Hell, I'm pretty sure you know what you would tell someone else here if they were in your shoes: Don't do it! Now is the time to find and fix this, not "after".

And I, too, have a 460 just sitting here you can have. Two of them, actually.....
Yup, you're right. I told @NC Engine Builder about it and he said if they spun unloaded, they'll spin with the engine running. That was my feeling too. I've literally done all I can do anyway. I ran a brake hone through the lifter bores last time very quickly and this time too. They were all spinning this time before I put the pushrods and rockers on. So it's either gonna work or not. If not, I'll start buying parts slowly to go roller.
 
While I appreciate your candor, I gotta agree. I've gotten that advice from you. (Not specifically about this subject.) While we all would hate to have to go through the potentially tedious process of discovering the problem, whatever you find may help eliminate this wiped lifter/cam problem, in general.

I would think it's a cam/lifter material issue, rather than a lifter bore issue, since it ran well before. I've read that flat tappet stuff isn't made as well because the makers don't deal with it anymore and would rather make roller stuff. And that cam blanks aren't what they should be. There's been debates about making rollers legal in NHRA Stock/Super Stock, where they must run flat tappets if produced that way.

Also, I thought Rotella is diesel engine oil? I think this guy, The Motor Oil Geek has a video about that. He has a bunch of good videos. My partner at the time and myself had a cam wipe 30 years ago. I know about the hassle. Disassemble, clean and hope it doesn't do it again. My current project, which spun a rod, had me doing all of that cleaning just recently.
At this point, hoping it won't happen again is all I can do. I've done everything else. I think Sean is right. That it's more of a lifter finish and metallurgy issue. Off centered patterns and generally poor finishes on the faces for lifters. Crappy metallurgy and no or not enough taper on lobes. It's really coming down to what we're gonna have to start doing to stay in the game is go roller. Had I done that three years ago, I'd be well ahead now.
 
At this point, hoping it won't happen again is all I can do. I've done everything else. I think Sean is right. That it's more of a lifter finish and metallurgy issue. Off centered patterns and generally poor finishes on the faces for lifters. Crappy metallurgy and no or not enough taper on lobes. It's really coming down to what we're gonna have to start doing to stay in the game is go roller. Had I done that three years ago, I'd be well ahead now.
I bought the engine I have now used, so I didn't have to fear new cam/lifter issues. (But I treat it like a new cam the two times I've had it apart.) I hate to give in, but I'm going roller whenever it's new cam time. Like you, I don't want to spend the money either. But probably cheaper in the long run.

I wish I could do more than just wish you good luck, but, good luck. If I was closer, I'd at least offer my labor.
 
I bought the engine I have now used, so I didn't have to fear new cam/lifter issues. (But I treat it like a new cam the two times I've had it apart.) I hate to give in, but I'm going roller whenever it's new cam time. Like you, I don't want to spend the money either. But probably cheaper in the long run.

I wish I could do more than just wish you good luck, but, good luck. If I was closer, I'd at least offer my labor.
Thanks. It's much appreciated.
 
I only run flat tappets, i have for years, the latest thing i do now is ball hone all the tunnels.
Yup. That's what I did with the original build that lasted fine until the loss of oil pressure and this last time and the cam and lifters fail anyway. I think this last time was a 100% parts failure. It was a Summit brand cam and lifters. It's a shame too, because Summit brand used to be pretty decent.
 
It’s been a while since I broke in a fresh flat tappet but for the last three I used Joe Gibbs break in oil with no issues. All three were fairly large especially the last one and all were run using full springs. The first one and the last were Comp cam and lifters but the last one the cam was nitrated, the second was an old stock Mopar Performance cam and lifter’s.
All the cams had between 5.60 and 6.10 lift and I wondered if that didn’t have something to do with the success rate of a cam going flat or not?
 
It’s been a while since I broke in a fresh flat tappet but for the last three I used Joe Gibbs break in oil with no issues. All three were fairly large especially the last one and all were run using full springs. The first one and the last were Comp cam and lifters but the last one the cam was nitrated, the second was an old stock Mopar Performance cam and lifter’s.
All the cams had between 5.60 and 6.10 lift and I wondered if that didn’t have something to do with the success rate of a cam going flat or not?
We used to run them in with double valve springs. I've run a handful of LARGE flat tappet cams in with triple springs a LONG time ago and we never had an issue. Never.
 
When you assembled it this last time what break in lube do you use? The same paste? Some of those pastes are thick enough to keep the lifters from rotating when the engine isn’t running.
 
The shitty part is that when a cam/lifter fails, how do you determine the cause? It could be a number of things, or even a combination of those things. You just never know for a fact what caused it.
 
We used to run them in with double valve springs. I've run a handful of LARGE flat tappet cams in with triple springs a LONG time ago and we never had an issue. Never.
It had occurred to me that it seems like the cams that go flat are the milder hydraulic cams. I forgot to mention that I only use solid flat tappet cams and maybe that’s got something to do with lack of issues with them. Or it could be the Joe Gibbs oil but I’ve heard of failures using it also.
 
When you assembled it this last time what break in lube do you use? The same paste? Some of those pastes are thick enough to keep the lifters from rotating when the engine isn’t running.
I did, but this time I used a lot less. Just enough to coat the lobe faces and I used Ultra Slick on the lifter sides.
 
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