Fluid style harmonic balancer for 273

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drewmac

drewmac

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I was looking to get a new harmonic balancer for my 67 273 Commando. I'd like to go with a "fluid" style one (later to be used on a built360). My concern is that my timing marks are on the left of the engine. Does anyone make this style of balancer with the appropriate sided marks? I was looking at this piece from Jegs:
PRW SFI-Rated Racing FluidGel Damper 1964-91 Mopar 273-360
 
Just put a tape on it. IDK if they make a passenger side mark model, most likely no, too small of a market segment. I'd also check the pulley alignment with that damper. CAT made them a while ago and the early ones needed a longer crank bolt and the pulleys did not line up, the 2nd version had a recessed pulley face and stock bolt compatibility.
 
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A couple of extra things to take into consideration if you buy that balancer.

1. It's a copy of the original fluidampr, and you will need to use a crank pulley designed for it. No stock pulley will be anywhere close to lining up. March performance makes one, PN 10151.

2. On the one I got, the pilot diameter was machined wrong. The first .750 of the ID is supposed to be large enough that you can get the damper aligned with the key, with the rest the .001 interference fit. Mine only had .150, so I couldn't get it on far enough to make sure it aligned with the key. I took the hub off and put it in the lathe, but not everyone has the equipment to do that without having to pay someone.
 
Do you plan to internally balance the 360 or does that balancer have bolt-in weights for it? Otherwise, it won't work on the 360, which is externally balanced.

As for the balancer timing marks, using a later model timing cover would work also, just more work & expense.
 
A picture of the March pulley vs a stock 70+ pulley.

You could use a 69 and earlier, it's 0.5" shorter, but that would still require 0.25" of shim on all accessories.

IMG_20200823_110447.jpg
 
@Locomotion Its going on a 273.......also the instructions say there is a interference fit required for proper fit and I can tell you, its F'n tight! They say heat it to 250...that's no joke! I thought I was going to break something cinching that CAT on with my Lisle balancer installer (7/8-24F ?) threaded rod and a 1 1/4 nut. Getting it off was the same hurt locker. I believe I ran a piece of sandpaper in there to find some burr or something but it was smooth. That's just how they are machined.
 
pishta said:
@Locomotion Its going on a 273.......also the instructions say there is a interference fit required for proper fit and I can tell you, its F'n tight! They say heat it to 250...that's no joke! I thought I was going to break something cinching that CAT on with my Lisle balancer installer (7/8-24F ?) threaded rod and a 1 1/4 nut. Getting it off was the same hurt locker. I believe I ran a piece of sandpaper in there to find some burr or something but it was smooth. That's just how they are machined.
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I had the same tight issue with a BHJ balancer many years ago. Did a lot of honing on the balancer and sanding on the crank snout to relieve it a bit. Of course that crank had to stay with that balancer until it was retired.

The OP did say "(later to be used on a built360)". The Jeg's ad Overview says "External balance applications have a removable hub in order to accurately blueprint the engine and balance the assembly." But the 360 is lumped in with the rest of the LA's and description only says "neutral". I didn't see anything indicating that particular balancer had any addable/removable external weight available.
 
If used with passenger side pointer, it will be 90deg off (@fluidamper)
 
drewmac said:
Is there a stock style fluid one that is really good?
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My understanding is that the newest fluidampr is redesigned, it has an offset face and uses a stock pulley. $400 or so.

Chrysler Engine Harmonic Balancers • The Original Fluidampr

It's like everything else, pros/cons. You can buy the cheap one, buy a billet pulley (if you planned to anyways, the cost is essentially the same) and maybe have some mfg issues. But, you'll save $100-200.

Also, a few different MFGs all repackage the same Chinese made balancer, PRW included. I know the speedmaster one is the same for sure. So if that's the path you're going down, do some shopping around and buy the cheapest one.
 
Just use a piston stop to determine TDC and make a new mark on the balancer where it needs to be so it matches whatever cover/pointer you're using.
 
TurboGLH said:
My understanding is that the newest fluidampr is redesigned, it has an offset face and uses a stock pulley. $400 or so.

Chrysler Engine Harmonic Balancers • The Original Fluidampr

It's like everything else, pros/cons. You can buy the cheap one, buy a billet pulley (if you planned to anyways, the cost is essentially the same) and maybe have some mfg issues. But, you'll save $100-200.

Also, a few different MFGs all repackage the same Chinese made balancer, PRW included. I know the speedmaster one is the same for sure. So if that's the path you're going down, do some shopping around and buy the cheapest one.
Click to expand...
i'm using this on my 360 probably made in china as well , but so far it works and was priced good , they have cheaper the pro street
Pro Race Products Pro Sport Harmonic Balancer
 
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