Flywheel question

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bumpus

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Hey guys quick question. I have a 73 slant and im running the 833od. I used the flywheel from the 85 d150 i grabbed the tranny out of. I didnt even think to look but are the flywheels the same? Could i get my 73 wheel resurfaced for the ten inch truck clutch? I dont want the car down long as i daily drive it. Hopeing the flywheels are the same so i can just bolt up the new cluch and have her done quick. Any help is appreciated! Thanks guys!
 
If both flywheels are 130 tooth ring gear I would think it would work. That the only difference I could think of.
 
So, I have a few questions. Are you swapping this transmission in or is the car already running and driving and you're just going to swap the clutch? If the truck uses the same bellhousing, then the flywheel should be the same size.

Your best bet is to just measure the thing and go from there since you'll be tearing into it anyways.
 
The car is running and driving. I drive it every day and i cant have it down for long. Im hopeing the 73 flywheel is the same so i can have it resurfaced before i tear it down. Ive become extremely efficient at swapping the clutch as this is the third one in six months.....Orileys brand clutches are crap.... In going to try a luk clutch this time...
 
The easy way to check is to remove the inspection plate and either count the teeth or measure between two pressure plate bolts.
I am pretty sure a d-150 has a 130 tooth 10.5" clutch
 
The clutch listed says its a ten inch clutch. If i could fit a 10.5 behind my slant i would be ecstatic! Would open up a new world of clutch options. Anyone running a 10.5 chutch?
 
My 82 D150 had a 10" clutch w/122 tooth flywheel. You might want to count teeth or do some measuring before putting money into parts you can't use.
 
3 clutches in 6 months, behind a slanty and an 833o/d? And you think a Luk is gonna solve the problem? Just how much power is that slanty putting out? What kindof failures are you seeing? What's the rest of the combo look like? And what's the application? You got a turbo on that thang,lol?
 
3 clutches in 6 months, behind a slanty and an 833o/d? And you think a Luk is gonna solve the problem? Just how much power is that slanty putting out? What kindof failures are you seeing? What's the rest of the combo look like? And what's the application?
Yes, inquiring minds want to know.
 
Its mostly stock engine, two barrel, 2.5 exhaust, a833od, ford 8.8 with 373s. The first clutch broke. One of the fingers broke off after five days of regular driving. The second stoped engaging like the springs failed...now the third makes noise and wont hold above 3500 rpm.... Im pretty sure its Orileys cluch as im not drag racing the car or anything just back and forth to work. Recommend any clutch?
 
Well I can't argue with a broken finger,or vacationing springs, other than perhaps you are over-centering the fingers with a mismatched Z-bar, or other mechanical mismatch.
But as to the current one, It sounds like a lack of free-play, and the TO bearing is continuously spinning.So reset the freeplay, and measure the plate departure. More than about .100 inch would be excessive and points to a mismatched system.For me,.080 works under any circumstance. Less than .030 will drag and make shifting into first from a standstill difficult. On a slanty, idling at 600 or maybe less, Ima thinking .060 would be plenty on new,or as new,un-warped parts.And no, you don't have to put the pedal on the floor at every shift. You have to push the pedal down only far enough to allow a grind-free,timely, shift.

So next question is; what is the pedal-system out of and most especially, what is the Z-bar out of?
 
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I bought a 10" clutch from Brewers and haven't had any issues. I don't abuse it but I do drive it hard.
 
How do you adjust it? I suggest looking through the lower inspection cover and adjusting the gap between the pressure plate fingers and the throw out bearing surface. 1/4" or so is all you need.
 
Stock pedals, stock z bar, it was a three speed. Every time ive adjusted the free play to about a quarter inch....
 
When you say stock, do you mean those are the parts the car left the factory with?
1/4 inch is not nearly enough freeplay. You will be resetting it every 1000 miles. Maybe less.
Try 1 inch or more, And only push down far enough so that the clutch does not drag, and make shifting from neutral to first hard, at a standstill. My guess is with just 1/4 inch freeplay, it would be easy to overcenter the fingers which is leading to multiple breakages.
After the freeplay is adjusted to 1 inch or a tad more(exact amount not critical); check the plate departure, which is a fancy way of saying how far the pressure plate comes away from the disc.
To check the departure; have a helper press down on the clutch pedal, while you are underneath the car. Stick a feeler gauge in there,that is no more than .080 inch. Then have the helper let the pedal up to squeeze the feeler in there,between the disc and the flywheel or pressure plate. Then grab the feeler and rest a few pounds on it. Have the helper again push the pedal down, and have him stop, and hold his position, when the feeler falls out. Then go see how close the pedal is to the floor. That is as far as you will typically have to push to disengage the engine from the tranny. There is no advantage to push much further.
If first gear will not engage, pushing the pedal further will most likely not help.Either the tranny oil is too thin and the gears won't stop spinning. Or it is too thick, and the gears stop too fast, and the clutch teeth don't line up right. So if you are experiencing this, an oil change is in your trannys future.
Keep an eye on the freeplay and adjust it as often as necessary to keep it somewhere close to 1 inch.
You may have to attach a block under the pedal to remind yourself not to floor it. Flooring it, when it is correctly adjusted, just stresses parts. I'm not saying you are doing that now.I'm just saying.
 
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Over center can be a problem. My pedal has stuck to the floor when power shifting second. I'll have to try a bigger gap next time I adjust. I'm not a fan of a low pedal though.I would rather have it disengage closer to the top of the travel. Good info AJ.
 
I havent measured the plate departure....ill check that for sure! Ok so ill readjust more feeeplay as well and probably add a block because im sure i have hit it to hard.....thanks everybody!
 
A little update. So the issue was for sure the clutch kit.....the pressure plate was only clamping the outer edge of the disk...new clutch works perfect! Orileys cluches are crap! Luk all the way!
 
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