At the perch is the important measurement because that's how much the SPRING is moving inboard. I was never referring to the bracket. I was always talking about the spring. It's a SPRING relocation kit, not a bracket relocation kit.
for everybody that is using offset shackles
- Thread starter 69DARTS
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I....like RRR, had done several offset installs ASSUMING the advertised offset was correct. I relocated the leaf spring perches on the housing inboard the 3/4" .....but when I installed the rear on final assembly, I always had to pull on the leaves together (almost to a bind) to get them to seat in the leaf spring locators.....then Dr. Diff set me straight and I started offsetting the pads 1/2" and BINGO....the rear end housing sat perfectly on the locators.
Try it....you might like it.
Try it....you might like it.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
1/2" is the max you can move the front hanger before it hits the frame. Been there, done that...
I think MP markets the kits as "3/4 offset" because the shackles have that much offset in them. Even so, if the max you can move the front mount is 1/2", the actual amount of spring relocation is somewhere in between.
I think MP markets the kits as "3/4 offset" because the shackles have that much offset in them. Even so, if the max you can move the front mount is 1/2", the actual amount of spring relocation is somewhere in between.
I have tried it. But if you read what I wrote, the possible answer is there. Although I have done many of these, the last one was about 15 years ago. Is it even a remote possibility that MP has changed the design? I know how to read a tape measure, a mic and any other measuring device, despite some of the smartass comments here. I haven't been condescending or smartass in the least, yet that's what I get in return. All I did was tell yall what I've done in the past and how it measured out. Again, I am speaking about spring movement, not the bracket. Every single time I have ever done one, the springs mover in 3/4" and the perches lined up perfectly with no binding.
Something else to think about. MP started farming out the SS springs to Mexico sometime back. Isn't it remotely possible something similar was done with the relocation kit? I don't understand why yall have to suddenly think I have to be wrong. I've been doing suspension work longer than some of you have been alive. This is it for me. I am out. Yall can cram your smartass attitudes and your "better than me" attitudes where the sun don't shine. Most of yall are forum heroes who've probably never turned a wrench anyway, so it's no skin off my back.
Something else to think about. MP started farming out the SS springs to Mexico sometime back. Isn't it remotely possible something similar was done with the relocation kit? I don't understand why yall have to suddenly think I have to be wrong. I've been doing suspension work longer than some of you have been alive. This is it for me. I am out. Yall can cram your smartass attitudes and your "better than me" attitudes where the sun don't shine. Most of yall are forum heroes who've probably never turned a wrench anyway, so it's no skin off my back.
True, but the spring eye can only move as far inboard as the bracket takes it. The difference in offset between the bracket and the perch is just bind you're putting on the spring.
Exactly. It's easier to install the rear axle if the perches are at a 1/2" instead of 3/4". And you're going to lose less than an 1/8" of tire clearance because the interference point for the tires is closer to the bracket than the perch.
Putting the spring perches at 3/4" offset and the hanger bracket at a 1/2" offset isn't a big deal, but it really doesn't get you much extra space. And at least theoretically it puts more bind on the springs and bushings. Not enough to really to cause any big problems, so it's probably more about how hard you want to work to install the rear axle. And at least on my car the inner fender well is more of an issue than the spring, so there's really no point in moving the perch the extra 1/4" because the tires hit the tub before the springs anyway.
Back in 2003, Mopar Muscle got 3/4". Everybody I know that has used the MP kit got 3/4". If you look how Dr Diff's brackets are made and how the MP brackets are made, it's clear the MP piece will move the spring more.
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mopp-0303-installing-offset-hangers/
The MP brackets themselves are offset, as well as the mounting studs. Both those offsets together add up to a tick over 3/4". The MP pieces move the spring exactly the amount that they advertise to. I cannot help it that the Mopar "gods" disagree. As George Thoroughgood would say, "That don't confront me"
http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/mopp-0303-installing-offset-hangers/
The MP brackets themselves are offset, as well as the mounting studs. Both those offsets together add up to a tick over 3/4". The MP pieces move the spring exactly the amount that they advertise to. I cannot help it that the Mopar "gods" disagree. As George Thoroughgood would say, "That don't confront me"
When it seems a dogpile, I get defensive. As do you I have seen in the past.
Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
If Spring relocation isnt enough, Back half the *****, then your tire fitment issues are over.
Yeah....I get my nose open every so often....but then I realize who I'm dealin' with....just more goofs like me.
Fisher
Old Guy with a Cool car.
I solved my sleeve bushing issue. trimmed the sleeve so that .010 was sticking out each side. Torqued them up to spec and have nice free movement.
I have a question for you gents. I just purchased the Dr Diff spring offset kit. Will I need a spacer for the front hangers? My spring eyes are 2 1/2" wide and the inside of the hanger measures 3 1/8". Basically the difference of the 5/8" offset.
You shouldn't need a spacer. The spring should fit pretty tight into the hanger. Keep in mind that the spring eye bushing sticks out a little, so the hangers will be wider than 2.5". And they'll pull in a little when you tighten the spring eye bolt. But if the spring is significantly loose in the hanger something's up.
The bushing and eye sleeve take up the remainder above your 2.5" wide spring.
I built my own offset relocation kit. The actual amount the spring moved inboard was 9/16". The bracket is slammed against the frame rail.
I built my own offset relocation kit. The actual amount the spring moved inboard was 9/16". The bracket is slammed against the frame rail.
aracer01
Well-Known Member
DrDiff's rear offset hangars are thicker than the MP. He sells DOM with new ends, 8 3/4" housings with axles and perches any way you want them for about $900.
famous bob
mopar misfit
rusty nailed it on this, depends on whose kit you use. I did this on my 68 fastback, had to elongate ( open up for you chevy guys) the existing hole in the frame rail, for the thing to move a full 3/4", and it did. see the posts back in time on this site, I explained a way to move the spring perches on the axle, no guess work, no measureing, very easy.
aracer01
Well-Known Member
Years ago before I moved my 1968 B 8 3/4" to my 1974 cuda with Drdiff's ofset rear hangars, I used MP rear offset hangars .8" to run it in the Abody. The rear outward offset allowed the springs to fit the stock width B pad. There was an angle to them that was not parallel any more. Eventually I bought the Drdiff A body housing and both cars are the way most would want. So in a pinch the b body housing will work in the A-body.
I give up. It doesn't depend on whose kit you use. There's only ~9/16" from the original front hanger to the frame, as crackedback mentioned. So, you can't move the front hanger 3/4" in unless you put the front hanger inside the frame rail. Since MP's kit doesn't do that, the front hanger only moves about a 1/2" in, certainly less than 9/16" because with the MP kit installed on my car I can tell you the front hanger isn't slammed against the frame rail, there's a small gap.
Put the perches wherever you like, it doesn't mean that's what you'll get for clearance. Maybe you'll get a little more clearance by side loading the spring, but you won't get it everywhere. Somewhere between the perch moving 3/4" and the front hanger only moving a 1/2" you'll get your actual clearance number. And really, it doesn't matter, because moving the perches in a 1/2" puts them in line, or slightly inside of the wheel tubs. So, you'll rub on the wheel tub before you hit the spring anyway.
Put the perches wherever you like, it doesn't mean that's what you'll get for clearance. Maybe you'll get a little more clearance by side loading the spring, but you won't get it everywhere. Somewhere between the perch moving 3/4" and the front hanger only moving a 1/2" you'll get your actual clearance number. And really, it doesn't matter, because moving the perches in a 1/2" puts them in line, or slightly inside of the wheel tubs. So, you'll rub on the wheel tub before you hit the spring anyway.
Do you enjoy banging your head against a brick wall?
You CAN get 3/4" offset with the MP kit, BUT, it takes some work that some aren't willing, capable or equipped to do. Out of the box, you aren't getting the advertised 3/4". I've had the MP's and they never gave me the extra 1/4", always 1/2" unless I did the extra work. Ask Dr. Diff, he builds the kits too, 1/2" for the A's.
http://www.doctordiff.com/a-body-offset-spring-hanger-shackle-kit.html
67DodgeDart360
Well-Known Member
MP or DR DIFF Spring kit?
Do you want to side load your spring and gain a 1/2" of tire clearance, or would you like to gain a 1/2" of clearance without side loading your spring?
I don't care WHO says the MP kit can get you a 3/4" offset, they're wrong. Doesn't matter how much they stop their feet and yell. The front hanger can only move a 1/2" before it hits the frame rail. If you put the MP and Dr.Diff spring hangers side by side (as I have), it's very easy to see that they move the front of the spring the same amount. Because again, the FRAME is in the way. The rear shackles of the MP kit are a 3/4" offset. If you offset the spring perches 3/4", you just put a 1/4" of bind in the front half of the spring. Your tire clearance doesn't change a lick compared to the Dr.Diff kit, it's still about a 1/2". And regardless, the limiting factor will be the inner tub of the factory wheel well, not the spring.
Do what you want, use whatever fuzzy math you'd like or believe whatever marketing gimmick best suits you, your actual tire clearance is gonna end up the same. The Dr.Diff kit is a higher quality, heavier duty kit and will get you as much extra clearance to the springs as you can get without a full 3" relocation.
67DodgeDart360
Well-Known Member
I did another post about tires I want if you can check that out and give me some info that would be great. Thanks
67DodgeDart360
Well-Known Member
famous bob
mopar misfit
I have the mopar ones , I guess, installed them and ordered a dana 60 w/ detroit locker , set up for the offset kit , ""3/4'' , dropped right in perfectly and been in there for 10ish yrs . !!
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