famous bob
mopar misfit
no, I had to clearance my frame a hair (careful work w/ a hammer ) to use the front shackles . the guy I bought them from , said they wouldn`t fit his A body !--------???
for everybody that is using offset shackles
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no, I had to clearance my frame a hair (careful work w/ a hammer ) to use the front shackles . the guy I bought them from , said they wouldn`t fit his A body !--------???
famous bob
mopar misfit
u keep beating this horse to death , but there are 3/4'' offset spring hangars----------get over it dude !
oi81b4uu812b4
Well-Known Member
I am always wondering why the tire clearance issue comes up when people do spring relocations.
The correct answer:
These cars had +/- 1/8" tolerance in the sheet metal assembly on the assembly line. So not everyone will have the same answer. And what fit on ones persons car may not fit someone else's. But it also depends on if your tires are closer to the spring in the front or the back. So measure your car.
I would agree with Bob McCarty on this, as I've measured low millage untouched or wrecked cars. While you can move the front perch in 1/2". Depending how your spring sets itself in the rear hangers will dictate how much clearance you have for your tire. A 1/2" front perch relocation & 3/4" offset shackle could give you 3/4" more tire clearance.
The correct answer:
These cars had +/- 1/8" tolerance in the sheet metal assembly on the assembly line. So not everyone will have the same answer. And what fit on ones persons car may not fit someone else's. But it also depends on if your tires are closer to the spring in the front or the back. So measure your car.
I would agree with Bob McCarty on this, as I've measured low millage untouched or wrecked cars. While you can move the front perch in 1/2". Depending how your spring sets itself in the rear hangers will dictate how much clearance you have for your tire. A 1/2" front perch relocation & 3/4" offset shackle could give you 3/4" more tire clearance.
No, there are not 3/4” offset hangers. There are 1/2” offset hangers and 3/4” offset shackles, that’s the way the MP
kit is made. I have the MP “3/4” kit on my Duster. I even had to clearance the frame rail to get them to fit because of the poor design and the large bolt on the inside of the hanger. I’ve compared those hangers side by side to the DoctorDiff 1/2” kit. Not only does the DoctorDiff hanger fit better, the offset at the front hanger is the same- it’s a 1/2”. Which means, the clearance at the front corner of the tire only increases by about a 1/2”.
So even if you do get a 3/4” offset at the rear shackle, you only get a 1/2” of offset at the front, and your tire still has to clear the most restrictive point. So the 3/4” offset is in name only, because you only gain about a 1/2” of useable clearance.
Except A-body springs are parallel to the frame. So, again, move the front in a 1/2”, move the rear 3/4”, and the most restrictive point only moved a 1/2”. Yeah, there can be some differences car to car, but that’s true with or without a spring offset. The MP spring offset being advertised at 3/4” is a gimmick.
Car to car differences might effect some tire clearances, but it’s a moot argument when it comes to manufactured parts. Because MP wouldn’t make a 3/4” offset hanger that would only fit cars that left the factory a 1/4” out of spec. Might there be some cars out there like that? Sure. But the hangers are still a 1/2” offset. Which means even if your car has more or less clearance in some places than another, the spring offset moves the spring a 1/2”. Because that’s the offset built into that hanger.
No take a cold chisel and hit the perch in the weld corners, just a cut. Then use a big 5 lb hammer and hit down between the housing and perch. Pop right off grind a little and use again. Done it many times. The hole is the right size too!
famous bob
mopar misfit
better yet , get a new set of perches , cur one exactly in half on a band saw, keeping it very square and straight , then weld the half perches to the originals , using them to get the same angle on the halves, weld a small amount at ta time ,so as not to distort the axle , no fiddling with setting the angles , all thats left is to redrill the u bolt holes over 3/4'' -no biggee, I`ve done it .
and mine did move the frt of the spring 3/4'' , regardless of what know-it-all says !
Has anyone successfully used the either of the kits without moving the spring perches?
To do it right you need to move the spring perches. Otherwise you'll have at least a 1/2" of spring hanging off of the perch. Or you'll just side load the spring and not gain anywhere near a 1/2" of clearance.
Ok, thanks. I kinda like @famous bob idea.
It's more work that way, but it would let you maintain the factory angle on the perch. The first time I did it I kind of used that method, I cut the stock perches back and used the remainders to set the angle on the new perches, then removed the leftover bit of original perch. So at the end it was just the new perches on the axle, not an extra wide perch.
I've found that even though it would seem like more work to pull the entire rear axle, it's actually easier to just pull the thing, set it on a bench, and weld the new perches on at the right angle. Because unless you run the factory ride height, the factory perch angle may not be right for you anyway.
Plus now you don't need some fancy angle finder like a fab shop would have, you can just get an angle finder app on your phone and use that. Super easy, makes welding the perches on at the right angle a piece of cake.
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