Ford Transmission Help (Sorry My Truck Is Not A Mopar At This Time...)

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KP

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Ford Transmission Help

The transmission in my 1997 Ford F150 4x4 with 158,000 miles was fluttered between 1st and 2nd gear and had very dark brown transmission fluid. A friend of mind recommended someone he knew that does transmission work on the side and after specking with him he appeared to be very knowledgeable. He removed the transmission and replaced the clutches (finding a damaged one), installed a new torque convertor, replaced all seals and gaskets. After reinstalling the transmission and road testing it he discovered the overdrive no longer worked, throws itself into neutral after 40 miles instead of overdrive. When driving it out of overdrive the transmission slips (example: when driving 25mph at roughly 2000 thousand rpm then attempting to accelerating the rpms go to 3000 before the truck starts the accelerate).

The person that did the work told me he pulled the transmission out again and could not find what is causing these issues and told me I should take it to a transmission shop that will diagnose this issue.

Does anyone have any ideas of suggestion to correct these issues?
 
What model of transmission: AODE, E4OD?
Your F150 probably has the AODE in it. In either case, the unit needs to be scanned. You may find electrical issues with the solenoids all late model transmissions now have. The solenoids include a dual pack shift solenoid, a TCC solenoid and a pressure control solenoid, along with an output speed sensor, a vehicle speed sensor, a manual lever position switch and others. On late model transmissions, a knowledgeable rebuilder will scan the unit first while on the road test.. A good rebuilder will have the equipment to check these electronic items and replace them as needed.
Just my two bits worth.
 
Redo by someone that doesn't do it on the side, or replace it with a good used.
But sounds like it could be the wrong converter to me.

You say it slips, but is the new fluid burned?
 
Converter has nothing to do with overdrive. As trailbeast says, take it to someone who knows something about late model, electronically controlled transmissions. Your friends buddy may know how to do a C-4 or C-6, but I don't think he knows anything about the transmission is in your truck. Would still like to know what transmission is in the thing though as it will help.
 
What model of transmission: AODE, E4OD?
Your F150 probably has the AODE in it. In either case, the unit needs to be scanned. You may find electrical issues with the solenoids all late model transmissions now have. The solenoids include a dual pack shift solenoid, a TCC solenoid and a pressure control solenoid, along with an output speed sensor, a vehicle speed sensor, a manual lever position switch and others. On late model transmissions, a knowledgeable rebuilder will scan the unit first while on the road test.. A good rebuilder will have the equipment to check these electronic items and replace them as needed.
Just my two bits worth.


transman thank you!
There is a local shop that will do the scan to $60, does that sound fair and if this shop finds an issue with a solenoid where can I buy the replacement?
 
Converter has nothing to do with overdrive. As trailbeast says, take it to someone who knows something about late model, electronically controlled transmissions. Your friends buddy may know how to do a C-4 or C-6, but I don't think he knows anything about the transmission is in your truck. Would still like to know what transmission is in the thing though as it will help.


Where the vin number tell you what for trans is?
 
What model of transmission: AODE, E4OD?
Your F150 probably has the AODE in it. In either case, the unit needs to be scanned. You may find electrical issues with the solenoids all late model transmissions now have. The solenoids include a dual pack shift solenoid, a TCC solenoid and a pressure control solenoid, along with an output speed sensor, a vehicle speed sensor, a manual lever position switch and others. On late model transmissions, a knowledgeable rebuilder will scan the unit first while on the road test.. A good rebuilder will have the equipment to check these electronic items and replace them as needed.
Just my two bits worth.


transman

Just contacted the person to did the work, or should I say damage and he said the trans is a 4r70w
 
Where the vin number tell you what for trans is?

I'm not a Ford parts guy so I can't tell you. If you look at the transmission pan an AODE has two angle cuts on the rear of the pan(both sides, the pan is wider in the front than the rear). The E4OD is a LARGE retangular pan. GOOD QUALITY solenoids available through dealer, or see if there is a Transmission Parts supplier nearby as they will have them. Normal autoparts suppliers I've found vary, some have good parts, some buy parts that cost them the least (my experience) and end up being junk from the far east. Assuming the trans is an AODE, the manual lever switch is on the outside, most others under the pan. Wiring harness must be also checked. Your friends buddy might have bug----- it up. All electrical contacts must be clean to work properly, both on the harness end and the switch end.
$60.00 doesn't sound bad. Most shops in this area will charge 1 hour labour to scan.
When you know what transmission you've got, and if you're going to do some work on it yourself, it would be a wise move on your part to get the manual for the transmission. Installing these parts wrongly is easily done. The ATRA have pretty good manuals and if there is a transmission parts supplier in your area, they will have them.
 
Converter has nothing to do with overdrive.

The converter drives the pump, and the trans slips.
You know this.
I'm not saying he has the wrong, or even a bad converter, just that I would give it a good look in the pump drive area before it went back in again.
 
I'm not a Ford parts guy so I can't tell you. If you look at the transmission pan an AODE has two angle cuts on the rear of the pan(both sides, the pan is wider in the front than the rear). The E4OD is a LARGE retangular pan. GOOD QUALITY solenoids available through dealer, or see if there is a Transmission Parts supplier nearby as they will have them. Normal autoparts suppliers I've found vary, some have good parts, some buy parts that cost them the least (my experience) and end up being junk from the far east. Assuming the trans is an AODE, the manual lever switch is on the outside, most others under the pan. Wiring harness must be also checked. Your friends buddy might have bug----- it up. All electrical contacts must be clean to work properly, both on the harness end and the switch end.
$60.00 doesn't sound bad. Most shops in this area will charge 1 hour labour to scan.
When you know what transmission you've got, and if you're going to do some work on it yourself, it would be a wise move on your part to get the manual for the transmission. Installing these parts wrongly is easily done. The ATRA have pretty good manuals and if there is a transmission parts supplier in your area, they will have them.



Here you go: AODE 4R70W
 
The converter drives the pump, and the trans slips.
You know this.
I'm not saying he has the wrong, or even a bad converter, just that I would give it a good look in the pump drive area before it went back in again.

Good advise for sure, should also check pressures. Could also have lip seals for drums improperly installed (need special tool to install correctly without cutting them), overdrive servo piston damaged or in cockeyed. Lots of areas to look at considering the skill level of the last person in the trans.

On this and any electronically equipped transmission, scan first.
Also, ford converters do not have tangs on the hub like a MOPAR. They are milled flat 180 degrees apart on the hub.
 
Good advise for sure, should also check pressures. Could also have lip seals for drums improperly installed (need special tool to install correctly without cutting them), overdrive servo piston damaged or in cockeyed. Lots of areas to look at considering the skill level of the last person in the trans.

On this and any electronically equipped transmission, scan first.
Also, ford converters do not have tangs on the hub like a MOPAR. They are milled flat 180 degrees apart on the hub.

Been a little while, but I do remember the ford pump drive design.
Always thought that pump gear resistance to the converter snout could try to explode the gear with that design. (but what do I know, I'm not a Ford engineer.) :)
But the Chrysler design made way more sense to me.

Always hated those wire loop lip seal installers and made my own out of feeler guage peices. (tapered them with rounded smooth edges)
Always hated teflon sealing rings too, but they work even though they wear the steel.
 
KP,
IF you drive it anymore, lock out OD. sounds a lot like a Crown Vic I had. check the control cable at the intake plenum. mine had broken loose from the accelerator linkage and acted a lot as you describe, delayed shifts, overdrive just dropped into neutral. was told I was lucky for not driving it much in OD as it would have torn up the trans (take that with a grain of salt, came from a trans guy, but one I trust ). he put like a lead fishing sinker on the cable and all was well again. whatever you find, hope it is easy and cheap. paul
 
At some point Ford changed a bronze bushing at the throttle pressure to bell crank connection to a plastic bushing. That plastic would break, fall out, and ruin a trans in short term. The HELP line at part stores have a new plastic bushing but in most cases by the time one knows its needed, the damage is done.
Bronze is available and will fit.
It should be a required part of trans overhaul in those year models where it applies.
 
Good advise by GTSport and Redfish. It's too bad the "rebuilder?" didn't think of these two things.
 
Well I took my truck and paid $60 to have a transmission shop diagnose it. There's nothing wrong with the electronics like I was thinking/hoping it might have been. Once they road tested it with their equipment hooked up they discovered the transmission is not able to shift into 3rd gear. The mechanic said one of a few things could be wrong, either something is not put together correctly on the onside or something is broken.
 
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