abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
**** i did the big block in my 64 valiant at liek 22 years old.. didn't know all that much and it went pretty smooth. today with the internet and all that information at my finger tips it would really be easy.
Found this 383, worth it for my 65?
- Thread starter Shaun65dart
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**** i did the big block in my 64 valiant at liek 22 years old.. didn't know all that much and it went pretty smooth. today with the internet and all that information at my finger tips it would really be easy.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
BULLSHIT! with the right torsion bars in it they handle just fine.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
sounds like a total clusterfuck.. i didn't have any of those issues with my 64 valiant with a 440 in it. with 6 cyl bars i agree would suck on the road.. i stuck 383 bars in mine and it drove damn good on the street and hell with the 1"+ bars on the market today that ***** would be great on the street, add some alumn parts and even better.. mine never had over heating or steering shaft issues but i was running headers which made plugs easy to get to.. i also kept the stock heater in it and stock blower motor that many say can't be done.. my dual pot master cyl was in the stock location too..
Did you have to do anything to clear that blower motor?
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
no.. just used moroso chrome valve covers.. infact my engine sat a hair high because i didn't bother notching the k-frame for the oil piump.. they had a angle in them that looked like it was there to clear the master cyl too..
wish i had a better camera back then and knew to take a ton of pictures when i did something.. these days i take a **** load of pics of most things i do so io have a record of it and can share if need be..
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I re-bought the B-Cuda with the 383 in it. It was bought new by my mom late in 1965 and had a 1966 dash. Robin Egg Blue with a Gold stripe. Was a 273 Commando A904 with a SBP 8 3/4 SG with 3.54 gears and a tow hitch. Pulled an small Airstream just fine.
It has A body 383 T bars in it. Mom sold it when I was 12.
When I got it back it had a ford 9 inch out back with 3.50 open. B body front end with KH 4 piston Disc's.
Being stationed in Germany and only seeing the car on leave I did not do too much to it.
It has A body 383 T bars in it. Mom sold it when I was 12.
When I got it back it had a ford 9 inch out back with 3.50 open. B body front end with KH 4 piston Disc's.Being stationed in Germany and only seeing the car on leave I did not do too much to it.
Glad to see you hittin back at these guys. The big block will work fine in the little early cars if everything is right and the details paid attention to.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
problem is that the magazines back in the day and the freaking oldheads back then (guess at 52 i'm an oldhead now..lol) spit out garbage information like a bigblock won't fit in an early a, it won't handle, it is a waste of time..bla...bla...bla... and way too many people over the years took it as gospel...
Yes ago I had a 67 Cuda 4 speed 383 big front sway bar, handled curves great and rode wonderful. Could it have been just as GOOD with a good SB? Yep I say.
I'm partial to a BB and a 383.fits easier. Good manifolds,trim the column housing,
So you gotta bash the pinch seam on the trans bell area....ya upgrade brakes and set up front end right. I say BB.
So you gotta bash the pinch seam on the trans bell area....ya upgrade brakes and set up front end right. I say BB.
Dave_J
Well-Known Member
I am not Poo Poo'ing the BB in an early A body. Mine was not done by me and I did not have a lot of time to sort it.
I would have done U-joints in the steering to get around the iron logs. Stan the Header Man's shop was 5 miles from my house but in 1986 he wanted $800 just for the headers and another $250 for the pipes that dumped in front of the rear tires. On a US Army E5 budget and two toddlers I could not do $1,000 so I yanked it out and put a 1978 LeBarron's 318/A904 in it. Had a 74 Swinger 7.25 with LBP so the Ralley's fit all around. This rear end gave me 10x2.5 rear drums too.
I would have done U-joints in the steering to get around the iron logs. Stan the Header Man's shop was 5 miles from my house but in 1986 he wanted $800 just for the headers and another $250 for the pipes that dumped in front of the rear tires. On a US Army E5 budget and two toddlers I could not do $1,000 so I yanked it out and put a 1978 LeBarron's 318/A904 in it. Had a 74 Swinger 7.25 with LBP so the Ralley's fit all around. This rear end gave me 10x2.5 rear drums too.
Plus on top of that, they've never done it so they only think one way.
You're an oldhead. LOL
Dude I heard AC/DC in the piped in music at Shaws Supermarket the other day.....
Tell me it was Whole Lotta Rosie or Big Balls!
Just to stay on topic, yes do the 383!
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Dave_J
Well-Known Member
If a 383 fits, so will a 512 stroker 400....
Dang skippy.
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Lots of opinions. An early A with a big block could be fun. However, in my humble opinion, you would be better off with a stout small block for several reasons.
1. 400 HP from a small block is easy without stroking.
2. A big block will be more difficult to install and run headers / exhaust. How much more difficult will depend on your skills.
3. A big block will weigh more. You can use a lot of aluminum parts to get the weight down, but it will still be heavier than a small block with similar aluminum parts.
4. A small block may not have the "Bam, in your face" visual effect that a big block has, but a small block can be dressed up nicely.
1. 400 HP from a small block is easy without stroking.
2. A big block will be more difficult to install and run headers / exhaust. How much more difficult will depend on your skills.
3. A big block will weigh more. You can use a lot of aluminum parts to get the weight down, but it will still be heavier than a small block with similar aluminum parts.
4. A small block may not have the "Bam, in your face" visual effect that a big block has, but a small block can be dressed up nicely.
Shaun65dart
Well-Known Member
Found this setup locally for 700. Was a running combo that was pulled out. He says out of a 70 charger. 318. What do you guys think of this?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Have you said what the goal for the car is??? You went from possible bigblock swap, to a 318 (I'm assuming) 2bbl??? No offense, but you seem to be all over the place.
Establish your goal first, then go from there.
Shaun65dart
Well-Known Member
Simply just saw that small block for sale so thought I would ask. My goal for the car is fast, loud, low, good handling, power steering. Big block has a cool factor to me and that one I showed you guys is only 100 bucks. Just trying to decide if it’s worth it over something like the small block I sent you all as well
Its like real estate and location....old car parts is all about condition.
Any engine that is NOT running is a core. Some cores turn out great, some turn out scrap. Therefore value an vary!!
Any engine that is NOT running is a core. Some cores turn out great, some turn out scrap. Therefore value an vary!!
The difference is 150 pounds from a 360 to a 440. Even less for a 383 or 400. It's just not that big a difference.
Dartnut
Don't hate me because i'm beautiful
Have you heard it run?
That's a big factor before you get in too deep....
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