Frame Connector Question?

[Woody'sScamp]

All, help is needed!
While I'm working underneath my car, new brake, fuel lines, etc., I'm looking at buying MP frame rail connectors. (Trying to copy Garys72Duster's thread.) My problem is my driver's side crossmember ('75 Scamp) is not flat where it looks like the front connector bolts in. I'm thinking of making a small (1 or 1 1/2" T cut) and making this area flat where it bolts on? Would this work or should I bag this idea? I need advice, as I have not bought the connectors yet.

Here are some pics.
Thanks in advance,
Woody

 

[mopowers]

Can you simply clearance the sub frame connector?

 

[RustyRatRod]

I wouldn't use those anyway. Compared to what's available today, they're toys.

 

[383Scampman]

I wouldn't buy any sub-frame connectors . I would make my own from 2"x3" x 1 2/5" rectangle tube . You can get it at your local steel supply yard . Use it on the flat and scribe it to the front of the rear longitudinal and make a butterfly end as it goes to the crossmember . Mark , scribe the rear footwell that will need to be clearance . Tig weld into place . Cost : less than $50.00 . Satisfaction : priceless .

 

[Kern Dog]

Also...
Bolt in connectors are often thought of to be only a fraction of the improvement as welded ones are.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Also...
Bolt in connectors are often thought of to be only a fraction of the improvement as welded ones are.

Exactly, PLUS they don't tie in the floor pans such as the US Cartool ones. I see people bitching about their pricing, but they are nice. When done, they look like factory pieces and are stronger than any other on the market.

 

[Biff]

I used 2x3 tubing mocked up the inboard spring mounts , cut the floor stitched the floor to the sub frame connector? That’s another way ? Pics on my dead phone .

 

[Woody'sScamp]

All, thanks for talkin' me down! I'm going to wait and maybe do the USCartool ones in the future. I looked at those but, I'll need to find a welder.

 

[pishta]

$50? Mine were $8 a side! I bought the 1X3 11G steel rectangular tube by the .lb out of the metal supply scrap bin. Cut, welded a front butt plate at the end and tied other into rear subframe on the 65. I can jack up the car behind the front tire and the rear will come up the same height as well as the door alignment not moving at all even when opened. Couldn't see that without them installed. I tacked the bar every place I could into the floor pan, about 5 places but couldnt stitch the entire length as the floor is not flat and I didnt want the bar to enter the interior.

 

[famous bob]

$50? Mine were $8 a side! I bought the 1X3 11G steel rectangular tube by the .lb out of the metal supply scrap bin. Cut, welded a front butt plate at the end and tied other into rear subframe on the 65. I can jack up the car behind the front tire and the rear will come up the same height as well as the door alignment not moving at all even when opened. Couldn't see that without them installed. I tacked the bar every place I could into the floor pan, about 5 places but couldnt stitch the entire length as the floor is not flat and I didnt want the bar to enter the interior.

$9 A SIDE FOR MINE , 2X2 SQUARE TUBING AT WHOLESALE STEEL YARD.
Welded plates on the front of tubing to bolt on while welding , cut floor boards to fit tite , installed ''inside'' of the rear frame rails and welded /and plug welded also , welded floor fully , welded up front plates / left the bolts in , fitted 3/4'' foil sided/closed cell house insulation ''board'' to flatten and smooth out the floor boards inside to make floor perfectly flush before new carpaet, cant ell it anywhere but underneath . Probly about the stoutest way to do it , full length floor welding adds a bunch .