Fresh 318 , the good and the bad

[ValerianMagnum]

Hi guys , so me and my installed the new refreshed 318 , all new gaskets / fresh plugs / oil pump / sump / gas pump / nos oil pan / good cam + lifters and 4bbl + alum intake...the usual 318 build . The engine is in my ratty 68 fury , runs a stock 727 and a 2.76 suregrip . Car runs ok , llt better than the old tired 318 , but ive realized that it was running colder running at 900 rpm for 20 mins even on a very hot 85-90 degree ( 200f on gauge ) and when to 210 - 220 and 230 , never went more than that but it was only when i was crusing at 60-70 mph , or even whit city driving it doest the same , it will go up to 210-220 and left it park...it runs smooth amd stays at 200*, it never happened to me , for sure she had an old rad too, Might buy a cheap alum rad for this summer , Car has no fran shroud , just a tiny 4 blade fan , ive changed the rad cap and the antifreeze , helps a bit but i feel the cooling system is not its job properly, tought that 200-210 was high , im used to run in the 180* range with my duster's 360

 

[tonysrt]

50 year old radiators could be a problem from the use of tap water. Now we are educated a little more and know the use of distilled water is a must. Look into the radiator and see if there is a white buildup of calcium in the tubes. Dead give away tap water was used and restricting cooling ability. Choice is either new rad or have old one boiled out by a radiator shop.

 

[Icetech]

Hi guys , so me and my installed the new refreshed 318 , all new gaskets / fresh plugs / oil pump / sump / gas pump / nos oil pan / good cam + lifters and 4bbl + alum intake...the usual 318 build . The engine is in my ratty 68 fury , runs a stock 727 and a 2.76 suregrip . Car runs ok , llt better than the old tired 318 , but ive realized that it was running colder running at 900 rpm for 20 mins even on a very hot 85-90 degree ( 200f on gauge ) and when to 210 - 220 and 230 , never went more than that but it was only when i was crusing at 60-70 mph , or even whit city driving it doest the same , it will go up to 210-220 and left it park...it runs smooth amd stays at 200*, it never happened to me , for sure she had an old rad too, Might buy a cheap alum rad for this summer , Car has no fran shroud , just a tiny 4 blade fan , ive changed the rad cap and the antifreeze , helps a bit but i feel the cooling system is not its job properly, tought that 200-210 was high , im used to run in the 180* range with my duster's 360

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get it warm and feel areas in the front of the rad for cold spots... bet it's blocked up.. have had it happen a few times..

I used a ECP radiator with no shroud and a new 7blade clutch fan... motor never gets over 180..

 

[junkyardhero]

Car has no fran shroud , just a tiny 4 blade fan

fix that before you go spending money elsewhere.

 

[Darter6]

the new refreshed 318

Just a thought. Was the block boiled out before rebuild ?
Lots of rust/scale buildup over the years.

 

[Dartswinger70]

You can run a 180 degree thermostat etc.
Taken from a quick Google/AI search :
LA Engine Thermostat Ranges and Choices:

Temperature (Fahrenheit)	Type/Note
160°	Available as an alternate temperature option.
170°	Available in both standard and high-flow versions.
180°	Standard thermostat, potentially available in a fail-safe version.
192°	Available as a standard thermostat.
195°	OE (Original Equipment) recommended temperature for various LA engines.
205°	Available as a standard thermostat.

 

[George Jets]

7 blade 18" mopar clutch fan upgrade. It will blow the hat off your head when you walk past the fender with the hood open.

No shroud needed, dropped 15° on the gauge after the upgrade... stock 318 with 4 bbl.

☆☆☆☆☆

 

[middleagecrisis]

From your description, you didn't bore the block and install new pistons, correct? If it didn't run hot before and all you did what was mentioned, then there are only a couple of things that could account for the warmer temperature. Couple of things to check: 1. New lower radiator hose? If so, did it have the spring inside to keep if from collapsing? 2. Same thermostat or new one? The cheap chain store ones can fail, it might not be opening all the way. You can check it by removing it and placing in a pan of water on the stove. Use a cooking thermometer to verify it's fully open at advertised temperature. 3. Same distributor, timing curve and advance? Excessively retarded timing could cause the motor to get hot. These things are cheap to check, do before you start throwing money at a radiator, fan and shroud.

 

[dano]

How much of a cam? Initial timing?

Too lean and/or too retarded on the timing can cause over heating.

 

[teringer]

Check the lower hose for sucking close if the spring rusted out

 

[318willrun]

Many good suggestions posted so far. I'll just add, put a new radiator in it, even the cheap "Champion Aluminum" ones I've used have performed flawlessly. It's a great idea anyways, just good road assurance.

 

[BrianT]

Did you ad the temp gauge when you redid the engine? My AutoGage manual temp gauge was ten degrees off when measured against a good infrared temp gun pointed at the thermostat housing.

 

[Darter6]

manual temp gauge was ten degrees off

Same with the one I have it is a Equus.

 

[Woody500]

50 year old radiators could be a problem from the use of tap water. Now we are educated a little more and know the use of distilled water is a must. Look into the radiator and see if there is a white buildup of calcium in the tubes. Dead give away tap water was used and restricting cooling ability. Choice is either new rad or have old one boiled out by a radiator shop.

If you can find a shop to rod it out.
Try removing it & filling it with vinegar & soaking,(amount of time is debatable, do some extra research yourself if you're uneasy) and then backflush w/ hot water.
May need to switch flush back & forth.

 

[ValerianMagnum]

Yup....i changed the cap / diluted the antifreeze with more water+ ajusted my carb to the best vacuum possible , bought a clutch fan ( didnt install it yet ) but...its a bit better , 200-210 in the last 2 days of driving ...but everytime im parked..the little overflow bottle ( aftermarket ) is always puking ....each time i go to the store or shut the car off theres a huge spot on the ground..why is the antifreeze not going back ? I appreciate all your help guys !

 

[Darter6]

Maybe wrong cap for a return system ?

 

[middleagecrisis]

Did you ever run a compression check on this motor? I’ve had a lot of the old 5.0 foxbody Mustangs and they are notorious for blowing the head gasket between adjacent cylinders. When this happens, it pressurizes the cooling system and pushes water back into the overflow tank and eventually causes the radiator to be low on water and overheat the motor. You can tell if this is an issue with your motor by running a compression check. Typically you’ll see too low cylinders adjacent to each other, usually the inside ones. Not saying this is your problem, but it has the same symptoms if you’re puking water out of your overflow tank when it’s sitting and warmed up.

 

[ValerianMagnum]

Did you ever run a compression check on this motor? I’ve had a lot of the old 5.0 foxbody Mustangs and they are notorious for blowing the head gasket between adjacent cylinders. When this happens, it pressurizes the cooling system and pushes water back into the overflow tank and eventually causes the radiator to be low on water and overheat the motor. You can tell if this is an issue with your motor by running a compression check. Typically you’ll see too low cylinders adjacent to each other, usually the inside ones. Not saying this is your problem, but it has the same symptoms if you’re puking water out of your overflow tank when it’s sitting and warmed up.

With the old and extremely tired 318 it did that , this one is a used one whonwas refreshed completly with new gaskets from top to bottom , only thing that we didnt do was the rings

 

[Woody500]

Hi guys , so me and my installed the new refreshed 318 , all new gaskets / fresh plugs / oil pump / sump / gas pump / nos oil pan / good cam + lifters and 4bbl + alum intake...the usual 318 build . The engine is in my ratty 68 fury , runs a stock 727 and a 2.76 suregrip . Car runs ok , llt better than the old tired 318 , but ive realized that it was running colder running at 900 rpm for 20 mins even on a very hot 85-90 degree ( 200f on gauge ) and when to 210 - 220 and 230 , never went more than that but it was only when i was crusing at 60-70 mph , or even whit city driving it doest the same , it will go up to 210-220 and left it park...it runs smooth amd stays at 200*, it never happened to me , for sure she had an old rad too, Might buy a cheap alum rad for this summer , Car has no fran shroud , just a tiny 4 blade fan , ive changed the rad cap and the antifreeze , helps a bit but i feel the cooling system is not its job properly, tought that 200-210 was high , im used to run in the 180* range with my duster's 360

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Love the Fury. My dad had two at different times, both Turbine Bronze.

 

[Dartswinger70]

My 70 dart as I understand it if i top the radiator off it will puke a little after warmup as I unsderstand it the coolant level isnt right to the top in the radiator its about an inch or so down if you keep topping it off fit will come out into the catch bottle if you have one

 

[middleagecrisis]

With the old and extremely tired 318 it did that , this one is a used one whonwas refreshed completly with new gaskets from top to bottom , only thing that we didnt do was the rings

I'd suggest you run a compression check (cold engine/throttle completely open) and post up the numbers if your concerned about continual coolant lose. If I misinterpreted something about the coolant loss concern, then disregard.

 

[WAR2D256]

1966 Dodge Dart 318- Cooling issue was running hot at stop lights on hot days (Over 100 degrees outside temperature). Have stock radiator. Removed original four blade fan and installed seven blade flex fan and electric push fan on the front of the radiator. No cooling issues since.