dano
Evil Handy Man
I've seen them be tight and look good but still not making good contact.
Frickin fiat!!!
- Thread starter 71340Duster
- Start date
-
I've seen them be tight and look good but still not making good contact.
Yep clean the battery terminals....worked for me.
Similar experience with Mustang convertible and this goes back to 90s models. New battery, starter spins great. Odd as it seemed, at switch on no relays clicked. Should have lit up the computer which in turn would cycle the fuel pump for 3 seconds. getting none of that. Add a 50 amp booster box to this new battery and bam, everything clicks, she fires right up. This worked for about half dozen restarts, then total failure.
Fault found was the tiny brush bristle like terminals at the computer to harness connection. Only a white powdery ash like residue remained. Evidently the verts get a little more moisture in the cabin than others.
Chrysler had about the same problem in their minivans when they placed a similar connection outside under the cowl.
If there's anything good to say about our classics, water could pour from the dash and drain right on out through the rusted floor, while we keep on going and going ( place pink rabbit here ). Good luck with it.
Fault found was the tiny brush bristle like terminals at the computer to harness connection. Only a white powdery ash like residue remained. Evidently the verts get a little more moisture in the cabin than others.
Chrysler had about the same problem in their minivans when they placed a similar connection outside under the cowl.
If there's anything good to say about our classics, water could pour from the dash and drain right on out through the rusted floor, while we keep on going and going ( place pink rabbit here ). Good luck with it.
Does your wife run until the gas light comes on?
My wife has a real bad habit of letting the light come on and driving for an extra 20-30 miles.
I called her after my last post and she said her car was running a little better after putting some dry gas in it.
I asked her how low did she let it go before filling up the last time she said until the light came on.
My wife has a real bad habit of letting the light come on and driving for an extra 20-30 miles.
I called her after my last post and she said her car was running a little better after putting some dry gas in it.
I asked her how low did she let it go before filling up the last time she said until the light came on.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
Electrical stuff that makes the engine run (or not) is part of the "powertrain". There are federal laws for long warranties on anything affecting exhaust emissions too.
Okay update. I always tell. First cleaned the posts and terminals, they needed it but drove it a short distance and stalled again, difficult to start but did. Got CEL right away. Drove it to stealership, they didn't even have an appt. till next Thursday but they just called, they worked it in. Next part's a little embarrassing but like I said I always tell. No oil registered on the dip stick. Last oil change was fairly recent, we run a semi-synthetic but to be honest with you all, I didn't think I had to keep checking oil on a new vehicle. The other issue is Chrysler calls for a full synthetic and states 1 qt consumption per every 2,000 miles. As much as I pay for that oil, we run it between 5k and 7.5K, never more. So.....I'm the dipstick dipshit. They are clearing the codes (low oil etc.), giving me a high dollar oil change I'm sure and I get it back tonight. Thanks to all for the ideas and well wishes, it was something easy, and easily avoidable....doh! If problems continue, I'll update this, thanks again.
You could be right, most likely filled to bottom line of safe zone. The plot thickens though, stealership just called, there is a LOT of oil from the rear of the engine back, he said it's really wet. I also added several pounds of mud on my property last weekend, so they gotta clean it off and take a look in the a.m. The dealership where I bought this Jeep already changed the dipstick oil fill tube as it was recalled for leaking, wonder what else could be.
You got lucky, the sensor did its job and saved the motor.
440Ken
Well-Known Member
Seems that it did, thanks again for all the ideas/comments. I'm pretty busy these days but need to make some time to keep an eye on her Jeep and my Sub. Lately my Duster seems to be getting pretty ignored.
dano
Evil Handy Man
Does it have the "don't change the oil until the light comes on?" My new Journey has that and were at 8k miles since new and no light.....I know there has been a change in option as to how long oil can be good, the car is used daily for long trips so that probably why it not on yet.
It has an engine oil life that displays in a "percent left". I think that was around 30 percent when this happened. No engine oil pressure gauge or display, probably an idiot light but that never came on.
The saga continues, got the Jeep back from dealer, they changed oil with full synthetic, cleared codes, CEL, etc. Test drove it. I get it back, next day check engine light again. Also small amount of oil drops at 4 points on skid plate. Going back to dealership service, thinking about trading it in. Have read that the oil filter adapters fail (gaskets), could be the issue if there's a new leak and that's not residual. Either way, not happy with the check engine light, gotta go pick the wife up at Seattle airport, 1.5 hour drive, a bit nervous.
I worked for Ford from 88 to 92. At that time oil consumption of 1/2 quart in 900 miles was considered normal. Keeping the valve guides lubricated sure clogged a lot of cat' converters. I like to think synthetic doesn't clog converters as bad or as quickly as conventional.
Went to check engine code, after calling and verifying that their reader could read my vehicle, they said yep, everything after 96, not so, won't read the Trail hawk. So, drove home pulled the front skid plate, LOTS of oil, mostly on passengers side. Looks like it is possibly coming from the passengers transaxle but ENGINE OIL? I cleaned things up and placed a fresh chem wipe under the passengers transaxle and there was fresh oil on it in just a few mins. Front of engine is also on that side so could be from there but didn't see any traces. Any ideas? Gotta get it out of the dealership what those codes were, and what the new one(s) are.
Tried to go pick up wife at airport. Oncoming ambulance on Hwy 20 I went from 55 mph to a near stop onto shoulder of road. This caused the vehicle to shudder, didn't quite stall but transmission wouldn't get vehicle moving, kind of wound up rpms so I backed off throttle, then I felt the trans shift up through all gears with the Jeep barely moving. Turned around, got my Suburban. Took Jeep back to dealership service today, fix it for real this time please. I asked them what the codes were the first time, they said low oil and something about manifold vacuum. Wonder which code it was this time, hopefully not a catastrophic internal engine failure, I"ve read a couple of horror stories.
Dealership is sorta done with the Jeep, gave me back the keys and said try it out. They found a number 1 cylinder misfire caused by a no oil indication from that sensor, which was false. They ended up Reflashing a lot of components, transmission controller, other computers. I hate this much whiz bang, too smart for it's own good. It's dumb now and will have to re-learn the wifes driving style before being completely smooth, hope they got it. They also did another recall, this one for the hatch controller connector that gets water intrusion and can cause the controller to short out and catch fire : ) So here we go, round 3.
goldfish65
Well-Known Member
These new cars are more complicated than the space shuttle.
Yes I heard that, along with a general comment of specific problems with electronics in automatic transmissions.
Well, I tried to pick the Jeep up at dealership last night, started it in parking lot, immediate check engine light. Shut it down and put keys in the night drop box. One week with the rental car, of course dealership says they have loaners going out all the time.....just not one for me.
Bunch of kids working in that service department, don't think a one of them has that much experience. Thinking about taking to the dealership where I purchased the vehicle, it's 1.5 hours away.
Then there's this story...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ZEsnKCa-pd7gXY2oipdmiQ&bvm=bv.105841590,d.dmo
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct...ZEsnKCa-pd7gXY2oipdmiQ&bvm=bv.105841590,d.dmo
superchargeddrt
Well-Known Member
magnumdart
There is a bad moon on the rise.
I had two '92 Cherokees. a Sport and a Laredo. Both decent cars that I drove for hundreds of thousands of mile. 4.0 automatics. I still have one. When Grand Cherokee first came out with the V-8 I thought of upgrading. My neighbor was parts manager at a large Chicago suburb Chrysler dealer. He said 50% of the parts he sold were for Grand Cherokee and they considered them junk. So none for me. While checking axles for Jeeps at the factory where they were made about four years ago I noticed they were about the size of my thumb at best, and a far cry from the straight axles in my '92's. I mentioned this to the floor supervisor and he said they were strong, and had been tested at Baha. Really? Big deal...like testing a Tonka toy in a sandbox.
Subject to interpretation by dealer. I had a POS Tundra for a work truck at my last job. There was some cable that flexed that they'd cut corners and made it about an inch too short and after a while conductors would break causing all sorts of odd problems.
Warranty claims denied. According to them it was an "electrical problem" not drivetrain so it wasn't covered at that mileage. Since the repairs weren't coming out of my pocket I didn't contest it, but it did make my already low opinion of this company even lower.
We bought my daughter a late 80's early 90's Cherokee, straight 6, it had a cooling problem because of the closed loop system, so we got the parts and she changed it to an open loop, best $100 vehicle I ever purchased. She drove that and loved it for many many miles.
I picked up wife's Jeep at dealership WITH the check engine light by their advice. They said "the book" says to flash the system first and if the light comes back to change the oil pressure sensor. They say no danger driving it with this CEL and may even get an Oil light but disregard. Okay....parts on order, taking the Jeep over the mountains tomorrow. Another little annoying thing about this whole repair process was that they changed my oil and didn't reset the oil engine life display, just a small detail, but if they'll miss that on the most basic of maintenance evolution's what else could they miss???
-
