Fried points

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Gopher

Gopher

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How's it goin I'm new here to this so here we goo

I have 65 valiant 225 and I've burnt up two sets of point and a petronix set I've double check a much as I could new ballast

Any guess's in what could be the issue

My guess right now is voltage reg it has been replaced recently but you never know with todays cheep electronics
 
Very first step is to get a mulitmeter and measure battery voltage at a good fast engine RPM, then measure coil + voltage running. It should be somewhere below 12V (Coil + voltage will vary, that's why they call it a "ballast). Battery running/ charging voltage should be very close to 14, and in no case more than 14.5
 
Do you sit for any length of time with the radio on, and the engine not running??? If you do,, do you turn the key to the "on" position?? ie .. clockwise?,,.. or do you turn the key counter clockwise to "accessory" position..??
 
Might want to replace that condenser too. or have you when you changed the points?
 
The time line for this is from install to almost home from work"25 miles"

All new parts short of distributor

Have meter in hand off work headed for new parts will let you know what I find out
 
If the voltage measures good per above, have you changed the coil? It could have a shorted turn, in the primary winding. What is the coil resistance between the (+) and (-) terminals.
 
Hard to follow you. Try using sentences with periods. Explain more about how the Pertronix "burned up". Most people find them very reliable and hard to kill. Which model do you have? The Ignitor II doesn't require a ballast and can run a better coil.

If you change distributors, I suggest getting a Mopar electronic one and triggering a GM HEI module and e-core coil. That is what I do in my 64 Valiant 225. Many posts w/ photos on that here.
 
The petronix started cutting out on my way home from work goin down the road at 55mph out would just fall on it's face I would lift the throttle and out would come back to life would go a few miles problem free, and then start the process all over again til no more vroom vroom I forget which model it was the distributor is next on the chopping block as I am finding inconsistencies in the manufacturing of points this set I just bought doesn't seem to be correct the cam follower is to short to reach to lobe so I can't set the gap
 
And just for reference I've driven the car around the neighborhood no problems for up to 15 minutes at a time"several times"

The car has idled in drive way for up to 30 minutes

the last time I drove it ran great excellent throttle response cruised nice really enjoyable, but after awhile started chugging and died
 
I didn't realize points was still in use these days. lol

I wouldnt even know where to begin with setting points. Something about a dwell meter is needed.

You ever considered maybe upgrading to electronic ignition?
 
When it starts missing, put your hand on the coil and see how hot it is. My experience might be telling.

When I bought my 64 Valiant 225 (w/ points) and started driving it home, it died with no spark. I suspected the ignition switch or wiring (later found switch wired w/ separate spade terminals coming loose), so ran a jumper from BATT+ straight to coil+. Fired up and drove 5 miles fine, then started stumbling bad above 40 mph. Stopped, idled fine, tried again, same stumbling. I felt the coil and it was real hot. Jumpered the ballast in series and drove 70 miles home with no more problems.

If your coil and ballast aren't matched, yours could be over-heating. The HEI approach eliminates all that confusion.

BTW, if you don't start using periods to form sentences, I am going to stop reading your posts.
 
Ok I got some numbers at the coil it reads as low as 12.22 and as high as 14.39 but I did see a few spikes as high as 16
 
If you have that much voltage at the coil, the ballast is being bypassed. This happens when starting the car, until key is in run position. I think the voltage at coil should be 6 to 8 volts. Sounds like a wiring problem. Running like it is now, will damage points and coil.
 
Well I called a friend who does ag mechanics and he told new that he's installed new points and condensers, and had the condensers end up junk right off the shelf.

If I'm burning them up driving it's the condenser that is bad. There its no cushion for the points.

He said the ballast mainly reduces the amps coming thru.

So I bought another condenser and spent a little more on it so we'll see where that gets us.

Electronic ignition yes will upgrade, but not until I know all the quirks are worked out.
 
I have a good working stock slant six electronic distributor out of a 73 duster.
I had it wired with the HEI conversion in my 71 truck.
Thsi distributor is ready to bolt in no issues.
$40.00 shipped.
PM me if interested.
 
First off you need to find out why the system voltage is so high. 14 to 16 volts to the coil is not good. What's your charging system doing? You said earlier the voltage regulator was changed. Is it grounded to the mount surface good.. How are the grounds from the battery to the block? Are they clean? Also are there any grounds from the engine to the body? 40+ year old car may need an engine to body ground added. I haven't dealt with points in many years but if you use a dwell meter to set by, it times the point opening event so as to reduce arcing across the point contacts. This helps to slow down the burning of the points. As it stands right now until you figure out why your charging system is doing what it is you'll just keep on replacing points etc. I am surprised with the voltage spiking like that your not burning out bulbs. etc. Follow the advice given above. There's a lot of knowledge and wisdom here, just take the time to work through it. Remember none of us are there and the information you provide enables others to help based on that.
 
Gopher said:
at the coil it reads as low as 12.22 and as high as 14.39 but I did see a few spikes as high as 16
Click to expand...

WAY WAY too high, and 16 shows it is problably overcharging. What is the battery voltage with the engine "at speed"?

Gopher said:
Well I called a friend.............had the condensers end up junk right off the shelf................If I'm burning them up driving it's the condenser that is bad...............He said the ballast mainly reduces the amps

So I bought another condenser
Click to expand...


Your buddy is partly right

Condensers CAN be bad off the shelf

Burning up points does NOT automatically mean a bad condenser, we already KNOW you have TOO MUCH VOLTAGE at the coil, and probably at the battery

The ballast reduces the amps, alright, but the RESULT is that the voltage is also lower

Dubob said:
First off you need to find out why the system voltage is so high. 14 to 16 volts to the coil is not good. What's your charging system doing? You said earlier the voltage regulator was changed. Is it grounded to the mount surface good.. How are the grounds from the battery to the block? Are they clean? Also are there any grounds from the engine to the body? 40+ year old car may need an engine to body ground added. I haven't dealt with points in many years but if you use a dwell meter to set by, it times the point opening event so as to reduce arcing across the point contacts. This helps to slow down the burning of the points. As it stands right now until you figure out why your charging system is doing what it is you'll just keep on replacing points etc. I am surprised with the voltage spiking like that your not burning out bulbs. etc. Follow the advice given above. There's a lot of knowledge and wisdom here, just take the time to work through it. Remember none of us are there and the information you provide enables others to help based on that.
Click to expand...

THE ABOVE is a very true statement

ONE Your coil voltage is way too high It should NEVER be above 12V with the system running (normal) at 14 charging, and is NORMALLY below 12

TEU Your mention of "16 volts" means that IF your meter is accurate, your charging system is way way to high as well

Once again, you need to measure charging voltage AT the battery with the engine at speed and the battery "normal"

I'd bet it's way too high.
 
Ok so here's the news so far

checked and kleened all straps and grounding surfsaces

New condenser and points

another multimeter and checked for good continuity

Car is running now tests goin in to resistor 12.5 goin out 10.5 at coil 9

Car will run at high idleand low idle for half an hour each

will check points morning
 
12.5 going to resistor is NOT normal. This shows the charging system is now not charging.



Get the engine running fast, and measure the battery voltage.
 
Ok and once more

Still running 14.6 at the bat. And then progressively less down the line
 
I think I got it
 

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Thank you guys for the help voltage reg shot

coil was fine

And I will be doin the hei conversion
 
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