Front calipers not releasing

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When at home without a “ pressure bleeder most of my life”. I have always started by a good slow thorough bench bleed on the Master then a slow gravity bleed after full assembly with drip hoses. I use a vacuum bleeder afterwards and then the good old slow push and taping with a mallet bleed to half pedal and Lock then release. The pressure bleeders can be real messy when not careful and ruin nice fresh paint.
 
Tooljunkie said:
A non sticking rotor after a 10 minute highway drive can get incredibly hot.
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if it gets that hot, you'll smell the pads burning. You don't have to drive 10 min, you sneak up on it. Drive it around the block, first. Then if it isn't locked up, drive another block, and so on until you're more confident in driving it further
 
I tried one of those air bleeders Harbor Freight sells. It seemed to work but pulls too much fluid and seems to aerate it in the process!
 
Not sure what size bore your mc is but I had a mc with too big a bore that resulted in a super hard pedal and very little braking with a well bled system.
Not sure if this is what you’re experiencing at all but thought I’d throw it out there.
 
Had a Volvo back in the 80’s that pressure bleeding would not even correct. The Master was on such a rake that I had to raise the rear of the car 8” or more higher on the lift to get it to bleed out all of the air!
 
1969383S said:
Had a Volvo back in the 80’s that pressure bleeding would not even correct. The Master was on such a rake that I had to raise the rear of the car 8” or more higher on the lift to get it to bleed out all of the air!
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That was the requirement on some cars way back when. think renault was another one.
 
rustycowll69 said:
if it gets that hot, you'll smell the pads burning. You don't have to drive 10 min, you sneak up on it. Drive it around the block, first. Then if it isn't locked up, drive another block, and so on until you're more confident in driving it further
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I've driven it around the neighborhood a couple times, no hot wheels yet. It just feels like a stick initially when I press the brakes and they take a second to release. I dont hear any scraping or dragging brake pads though.

I also installed an 8 3/4 with higher gears and posi so it could be a combination of getting used to everything at the same time as well.
 
Dana67Dart said:
The line above the brake switch in the second photo looks pinched.

IMHO I would bite the bullet and buy new OEM reproduction lines and the year correct distribution block and proportioning valve.

There could still be a lot of trapped air in the lines.even if fluid flows out clear. Think aeration.

Do you know for sure the combo block and proportioning valve is functional?
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Been a while figured I'd give an update for all that helped and quoted you because... I took your advice and I got new brake lines and my brakes work amazing now! Was able to lock up the wheels for the first time ever. My pedal is a nice firm hard pedal.

I actually made the new brake lines myself and did this because even though my brakes have worked since this thread I was never happy with the pedal feel of them. First push was always a little soft but no matter how many times I bled them I couldn't get the problem corrected.

New lines and fittings, no leaks and amazing brakes. Life is good!

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