Front calipers not releasing

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RustyRatRod said:
Alright. Here is how you bench bleed the Master cylinder ON the car. First, level the master cylinder on the car. Jack it up in the back if you have to. Get the MC LEVEL. Now get someone inside who can FOLLOW instruction. Get them to depress the pedal down ONE TIME and hold it TIGHT. Now, loosen the rear line on the master cylinder. Let it drain fluid and air....or dead aliens or whatever, then close it. DO the same with the front. ALL THE WHILE your helper is holding the pedal hard. Make sure the pedal goes to the floor each time. DO NOT pump the pedal multiple times during the bench bleed. Only go down ONCE each time. After you tighten the second fitting each time, your helper can release the pedal. Then repeat until you get solid fluid out of the master cylinder. Done. From there, you can gravity bleed starting from the right rear, left rear, right front, left front. In that order. Then you should be getting somewhere.
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Will try this tomorrow see if I get anywhere.

rustycowll69 said:
make sure everything is back in its proper place after trying to bleed with drums off, before you replace rear drums.
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Yes sir. It is one thing I noticed that the shoes would kind of start to pop out of position


In other news.... anyone want to buy a... just kidding my daughter would kick my butt.
 
But if anyone is coming to Las Vegas for MATS I owe you a beer or 3 or 5 for all the answers to the questions I have asked the past 2 months. Maybe I'll even take you for a ride in the purple problem if you trust it... :rofl:
 
DentalDart said:
But if anyone is coming to Las Vegas for MATS I owe you a beer or 3 or 5 for all the answers to the questions I have asked the past 2 months. Maybe I'll even take you for a ride in the purple problem if you trust it... :rofl:
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I would be there in a minute if you were local.
 
DentalDart said:
It would have probably been a 1 weekend job if I had some one here who knows what they are doing guiding me through it haha.
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I am sorry I am not closer to a lot of yall. We could have a good time if nothing else.
 
upload_2020-2-18_11-1-26.jpeg
This is how I do it. Just keep the lines submerged while bleeding. You can do it using your brake petal as well you just need someone pumping while you keep the lines in fluid.
 
RustyRatRod said:
Sometimes, a new master cylinder is not the same as the old. I have had them sometimes make the rod in the back seem too long due to machining tolerances and make the front drag and even lock up. Inspect the rod and see if it needs shortening. I've run across this many times in the aftermarket.
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I had that issue. Front calipers locked. I didn't shorten the rod but made an 1/8" spacer I installed between the MC and Firewall.I realized after that the MC came with a plastic spacer that I overlooked.
 
Kendog 170 said:
Did you bleed the master like this with this ?
https://www.amazon.ca/Dorman-13911-...ocphy=9061009&hvtargid=pla-435726495565&psc=1

How to Bleed a Master Cylinder
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I used a bleeder that looks like a gun, you pump it and it builds pressure which is supposed to suck the fluid out of the lines, the hoses just didbt seal to great on the nipples.

I also started bleeding the MC how you do it. Then I went and got a syringe bleeder and it worked so much easier and better
 
Oldmanmopar said:
Rebuild the proportioning valve. Replace the front hoses they could be collapsed inside due to age or being kinked. Two most common problems.
Click on complete rebuild instructions on bottom of page

1970 - 1976 Mopar Combination Brake Valve Seal Kit | Muscle Car Research LLC
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All my hoses are brand new, just the lines are old lines. Except for the front drivers hard line, that one is new because I broke the old one.

I have a couple pts today that I'm placing implants in today so when I get home I'll mess with it some more! Crossing my fingers for good vibes today
 
Dana67Dart said:
Not planning on having anymore kids I see. I hear the make some pretty nice dog houses in LV.:rolleyes:
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My wife talks about us having more kids, but unless the mailman has been coming by when I'm not home it will be impossible for her to get pregnant...:popcorn:

Dana67Dart said:
If you lift up on the brake pedal you should be able to move the push rod away from the MC a little. If not rod might be to long as others have said.

Regarding rounding of the nuts on the hard lines are you using a flare nut wrench like this (standard not metric)
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Crescent-2...82o77uIl2YYNFLu4LVOBAv9ricLhLkf0aAvCjEALw_wcB
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Yes I have been using flare wrenches, just 50yr old crusty lines are not very forgiving when trying to take them off, even after spraying them with PB Blaster.
 
I lifted the brake pedal all the way and the rod moves freely within the MC so I dont think the rod is to long. I also opened all of the bleeders and fluid comes out the front calipers nicely. I also was able to press in the rotors/caliper piston to get the rotors to start spinning yet still riding the pads.

The rears nothing really drops out. I am going to open them longer and see if they start to gravity bleed. I have no idea why the rears wouldn't have anything much coming out of them unless the prop valve isnt getting enough pressure to open the rears?
 
DentalDart said:
I lifted the brake pedal all the way and the rod moves freely within the MC so I dont think the rod is to long. I also opened all of the bleeders and fluid comes out the front calipers nicely. I also was able to press in the rotors/caliper piston to get the rotors to start spinning yet still riding the pads.

The rears nothing really drops out. I am going to open them longer and see if they start to gravity bleed. I have no idea why the rears wouldn't have anything much coming out of them unless the prop valve isnt getting enough pressure to open the rears?
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Check the lines arent pinched from a tow hook. Bleed at rear hose to see if you have an obstruction free line to that point, then go from there. Haven't memorized all the details of this story.
 
DentalDart said:
The rears nothing really drops out. I am going to open them longer and see if they start to gravity bleed
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IIRC you can't gravity bleed drums due to check valve.

Regarding fronts. When you apply pressure to the brake pedal. Do the front rotors stop being able to be rotated?

When you take your foot off the brake pedal can you rotate the rotor?

Discs do not release completely they always drag on the rotors a tinny bit.

Normal flexing of the suspension components, wheel bearings etc help push the piston in it's bore a bit. Only needs to be a few thousandths of an inch to allow rotation. Piston seal also helps.
 
Ok I got some movement of fluid in the rears.

I took my syringe bleeder, filled it with fluid then was able to squirt the fluid down through the hole in front reservoir which connects to the rear lines. Doing this fluid started coming out the rear bleeders. Now I will do it 1 by 1 going from the passenger rear to the drivers rear.

What a fiasco trying to do this alone and with the lovely help of the geniuses on FABO.
 
DentalDart said:
Ok I got some movement of fluid in the rears.

I took my syringe bleeder, filled it with fluid then was able to squirt the fluid down through the hole in front reservoir which connects to the rear lines. Doing this fluid started coming out the rear bleeders. Now I will do it 1 by 1 going from the passenger rear to the drivers rear.

What a fiasco trying to do this alone and with the lovely help of the geniuses on FABO.
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You had air in the master

If you look real close into the lil holes in the bottom of the reservoir..you can see a tiny air bubble if there is air in it still
 
MOPAROFFICIAL said:
You had air in the master

If you look real close into the lil holes in the bottom of the reservoir..you can see a tiny air bubble if there is air in it still
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I'll check in a second, about to brush the kids teeth for bed! They went to the dentist today and no cavities in their mouths currently!
 
DentalDart said:
They went to the dentist today and no cavities in their mouths currently
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Can you do dentistry on your own family members? Wivestale says MDs can not work on their own.

I used to bless the brakes on an old 63 Econoline by my self. I removed the return spring. Tied a rope to the brake pedal out the back door, under the van and back to the brake pedal. Pull the rope under to apply pressure pull the rope out the back door to pull the pedal back up .

OR
have your oldest be the brake pusher.
 
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