Front calipers not releasing

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Can you do dentistry on your own family members? Wivestale says MDs can not work on their own.

I used to bless the brakes on an old 63 Econoline by my self. I removed the return spring. Tied a rope to the brake pedal out the back door, under the van and back to the brake pedal. Pull the rope under to apply pressure pull the rope out the back door to pull the pedal back up .

OR
have your oldest be the brake pusher.
years ago, I bought a "1 man bleeder" tool. It is kind of tubular pogo stick like contraption with a flat collar that locks in any place along the tube so that it will push down on the brake pedal and hold when the collar is propped against the front of the front seat bolster. As I recall it wasn't that expensive but it did require a lot of up & down on my part. I was much younger then, hahaha.
 
If anyone ever pinched the front soft lines to swap a caliper and/or prevent fluid from draining, the hoses will be collapsed inside but still look fine on the outside.

It will act like a check valve and prevent the calipers from releasing.

Ask me how I know, and you'll know you don't have to ask.
 
years ago, I bought a "1 man bleeder" tool. It is kind of tubular pogo stick like contraption with a flat collar that locks in any place along the tube so that it will push down on the brake pedal and hold when the collar is propped against the front of the front seat bolster. As I recall it wasn't that expensive but it did require a lot of up & down on my part. I was much younger then, hahaha.
Thats not the intended purpose of that tool and will not wok for bleeding brakes as far as I am concerned. It's use is to lock the brakes while measuring caster. Works for checking brake lights too. Brake bleeding? Nope
 
Thats not the intended purpose of that tool and will not wok for bleeding brakes as far as I am concerned. It's use is to lock the brakes while measuring caster. Works for checking brake lights too. Brake bleeding? Nope
oh, it works ok, but it is much. much easier to just grab a friend, or relative, even a kid to work the brake pedal. I've never tried a mity vac, so I don't know how easy that is to use.
 
oh, it works ok, but it is much. much easier to just grab a friend, or relative, even a kid to work the brake pedal. I've never tried a mity vac, so I don't know how easy that is to use.
Glad it works for you. Mity vac sucks. LOL
 
oh, it works ok, but it is much. much easier to just grab a friend, or relative, even a kid to work the brake pedal. I've never tried a mity vac, so I don't know how easy that is to use.
The way I see it, compared to a human, is that there is no "follow through" kind of like a bunt in baseball. Kinda sorta works but no real hit.
 
Ok so heres the conundrum

I think I do need to bleed the MC again. I was able to get nice steady flows out of all of the brake lines, then I pressed on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. Once it returned up the pedal was hard but the caliper pistons were once again stuck shut. I could pry the piston back and get the rotors to spin freely. When going and pressing the brake pedal again it fell to the floor again.

So tomorrow I will try and recruit a little help to bleed the MC as stated in the thread. Once that is bled properly I think I will be in good shape bleeding the brakes with my syringe.
 
Ok so heres the conundrum

I think I do need to bleed the MC again. I was able to get nice steady flows out of all of the brake lines, then I pressed on the brake pedal and it went to the floor. Once it returned up the pedal was hard but the caliper pistons were once again stuck shut. I could pry the piston back and get the rotors to spin freely. When going and pressing the brake pedal again it fell to the floor again.

So tomorrow I will try and recruit a little help to bleed the MC as stated in the thread. Once that is bled properly I think I will be in good shape bleeding the brakes with my syringe.
When you push the caliper piston away from the rotor it will take a significant amount of pedal travel to move the caliper pistons back into operating condition. The drag on the rotor can be significant in a static environment.
 
When you push the caliper piston away from the rotor it will take a significant amount of pedal travel to move the caliper pistons back into operating condition. The drag on the rotor can be significant in a static environment.

So maybe I dont have to bleed the MC again?
 
So maybe I dont have to bleed the MC again?
If the brake pedal is firm, I would say not. The O ring in the brake caliper is square, if that makes sense. When you apply the brakes, that "square" O ring rocks a little. When you let off of the brake, that "square" O ring un-rocks a little. That is what relieves the brake pressure from the rotor. Not much movement to say the least. Add in some dynamics and wheel bearing clearance, now we have a lot less drag.
 
Put a wheel on it and give it a hard kick in the caliper location and see if it rotates a little better to your liking.
Old school drag racing trick is to loosen the wheel bearings and rock the steering wheel to move the pads off of the rotors and stay off of the front brakes when lining up. Drum brakes are faster. lol
 
Video 1 shows rotor moving easier after I compressed the piston. I thought this seemed normal.


Video 2 is after I pressed the brake pedal this morning. The roots are much harder to turn by hand, although with my big muscles I make it look easy... it's not that easy haha.

 
I rebled the entire system. Starting with the MC then furthest brake drum/rotor from the Mc. The front brakes are much better now, stiff but movable pretty much in between the 2 videos posted above.

Hooked up the DS now going to take it for a spin and see how she does.
 
Thats not the intended purpose of that tool and will not wok for bleeding brakes as far as I am concerned. It's use is to lock the brakes while measuring caster. Works for checking brake lights too. Brake bleeding? Nope
Been doing it with a similar tool i made. Works just fine. I have had some real winners help me bleed brakes and this one does what it is told.

i do auto repairs for a living, working out of my home shop.cant always rely on someone to stop in and assist me. Some of the newer cars require a scan tool to initiate the bleeding process, no pedal jockey required.
 
I finally bought a pressure bleeder. So much easier. I’ve tried the vacuum bleeders before and they’re pretty hit and miss. Even the “good” ones don’t seem to last very long. With the pressure bleeder it’s super easy, fill the reservoir, pump up some pressure, go around and crack the bleeders. Piece of cake.
 
Perhaps i missed it or it hasnt been mentioned.
Rotor tight, crack bleeder, if it frees up there is something hydraulically holding pressure.

Residual valve should be no more than 3 psi. Easy to overcome. New pads and rotors will need some driving as neither is shiny yet and will grab noticeably more.

clamping brake hose is a big no-no.
 
Burning excess brake fluid that spilled everywhere lol.

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I think the brakes need broken in or bled again they still stick slightly not to bad though.

The car just died on me though sounded like it wasnt getting fuel, my guage says half a tank and now its cranking just not turning over.

The car looks good though :thumbsup:

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She was pissed I was driving without her.

The battery is for sure going bad. We able to get the car to turn over by jumping it with my wife's car.

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drive it around gently, and occasionally pull over in a safe spot and feel the wheel hubs. You can often tell the difference if one wheel's brake is dragging.
 
drive it around gently, and occasionally pull over in a safe spot and feel the wheel hubs. You can often tell the difference if one wheel's brake is dragging.
careful, burn your fingers if they are dragging.
 
A non sticking rotor after a 10 minute highway drive can get incredibly hot.
They are built to drag a little.
Imagine rotor runout on a long drive, rattling piston away from rotor. Could result in a collision due to increased pedal travel.
 
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