Front disk brakes for my 66 Valiant

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justme

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Does anyone know who sells a complete front brake conversion from 9" drums to disk brake for a 1966 Plymouth Valiant? 9" drums 5 lugs 4" ?
 
do you want to keep the small bolt pattern (5X4) or upgrade to the big bolt pattern (5x4.5?)

follow up: do you want to upgrade any other components at the same time or is any of the suspension in need of care and feeding?
 
Limited options out there for your SBP 9" That's what I did on my 64.

Things to be aware of -

Most kits use GM parts

There may be wheel clearance issues with the front calipers. I had to go away from my 14" slots.

Most kits are made by the same manufacturer and drop shipped MBMbrakes.com so you can pick your poison on the retailer

PST (now Kanter)
Pirate Jack
Etc

CALL whomever you choose to make sure they understand the requirements

If you have not already, consider the rebuild of the front suspension as mentioned earlier.

If you aren't locked in on a kit, then the guys will give you a number of DIY and parts options.
 
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I bought a complete kit from the Ram man but seems like a few members thought he was a joke or something, is kit bolted right up for use , we did modify only one this, I drilled the ball joint bolt to except a Carter key, its all in my Restoration page towards the beginning , all 73 to 76 disco brakes Plymouth/dodge parts and used my upper control arms with the smaller ball joint because it came with a machine sleave for the big ball joint that 73 model A bodies had, the upper ball joint is larger , everything new including spindle, it's been 7 or so years ago.
 
memike said:
I bought a complete kit from the Ram man but seems like a few members thought he was a joke or something, is kit bolted right up for use , we did modify only one this, I drilled the ball joint bolt to except a Carter key, its all in my Restoration page towards the beginning , all 73 to 76 disco brakes Plymouth/dodge parts and used my upper control arms with the smaller ball joint because it came with a machine sleave for the big ball joint that 73 model A bodies had, the upper ball joint is larger , everything new including spindle, it's been 7 or so years ago.
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Ram Man is a joke, and a terrible company to do business with, if he's even still in business. Just a google at the BBB will tell you that.

You can get the 73+ conversion kit from DoctorDiff with the small bolt pattern if you choose. That is not itself without issue, because the 73+ kit widens the track width and has a larger hub diameter than the drums or the KH disks. Basically it means that if the goal in staying with the 5x4" bolt pattern is to keep your factory wheels that fit the old drum brakes the 73+ conversion doesn't always fit, even with the small bolt pattern on the rotors.
 
I pulled stock stuff off a later junk car and would recommend that
 
72bluNblu said:
That can be a very different operation, depending on what year "later" car you use. 67-72 is a different ball game from 73+.
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I did it for my early a body And pulled from a 73 dart. Works great. You just need the upper control arm and knuckle
 

I didn't read it like that but yeah it'll be big bolt pattern. I don't think any kit will let you keep 13 in wheels though
 
72bluNblu said:
Ram Man is a joke, and a terrible company to do business with, if he's even still in business. Just a google at the BBB will tell you that.

You can get the 73+ conversion kit from DoctorDiff with the small bolt pattern if you choose. That is not itself without issue, because the 73+ kit widens the track width and has a larger hub diameter than the drums or the KH disks. Basically it means that if the goal in staying with the 5x4" bolt pattern is to keep your factory wheels that fit the old drum brakes the 73+ conversion doesn't always fit, even with the small bolt pattern on the rotors.
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I understand and have been told this by you and a few others, I wanted LBP, I wanted Arigenal mopar parts so I could get anything I needed from any auto parts, my 66 drive and handles perfectly. And install was a breeze, I appreciate your input and knowledge though.
 
memike said:
I understand and have been told this by you and a few others, I wanted LBP, I wanted Arigenal mopar parts so I could get anything I needed from any auto parts, my 66 drive and handles perfectly. And install was a breeze, I appreciate your input and knowledge though.
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DoctorDiff’s stage I and II kits are literally all reproduction 73+ Mopar parts, and with higher quality bearings and components. Either of those kits gets you the large bolt pattern unless you specify SBP on the stage I kit, and install of any 73+ kit is the same.

Ram Man, PirateJack, MBM and probably others are just 73+ reproduction parts, most with cheap overseas components. DoctorDiff costs a little more, but you get Timken bearings and seals, good quality brake lines, and a knowledgeable source for customer support if you need any.

DumpsterFire said:
I didn't read it like that but yeah it'll be big bolt pattern. I don't think any kit will let you keep 13 in wheels though
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OP clarified in post 5 that the goal is to stay SBP.

But yeah, I don’t think any disk kit, OE or otherwise, would let you keep the 13” wheels.

With the 73+ kits you do need large ball joint UCA’s, or tapered adapters.
 
junkyardhero said:
i know scarebird was sold to US Car Tools, are they still offering the components?

also, it's not exactly a bolt on affair.
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how is a scarebird kit not a bolt on affair?

i got one my on my 71 and guess what?
i used bolts to keep it on
 
junkyardhero said:
dad jokes aside, was there not drilling/machining of the rotor necessary for your application?
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no, i bought the set up as a kit from Scarebird, so it came with rotors they had bought and drilled
it also came with a template, in case i need new rotors and need them drilled locally i can

at some point there was talk about needing to radius the outer edge of the calipers but the ones in got cleared everything right out of the box

i would say the only part of this swap i could see needing more then a socket set would be the longer wheel lugs, if you felt the need to "properly" swedge them

i just gently tapped mine in with a hamer (or the back of the ratchet) and all is well


now, if you are doing a piece meal, get only the brackets and the instructions from scarebird and try to source everything else from rock auto, then yes, you would need to find a way to get the bolt pattern onto the rotors
 
diymirage said:
no, i bought the set up as a kit from Scarebird, so it came with rotors they had bought and drilled
it also came with a template, in case i need new rotors and need them drilled locally i can

at some point there was talk about needing to radius the outer edge of the calipers but the ones in got cleared everything right out of the box

i would say the only part of this swap i could see needing more then a socket set would be the longer wheel lugs, if you felt the need to "properly" swedge them

i just gently tapped mine in with a hamer (or the back of the ratchet) and all is well


now, if you are doing a piece meal, get only the brackets and the instructions from scarebird and try to source everything else from rock auto, then yes, you would need to find a way to get the bolt pattern onto the rotors
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my experience was entirely the opposite. i was installing the kit for a client and every aspect of it was a struggle. the majority of that was due to scarebird going in and out of business, but i don't think that to be a valid excuse for the over all poor experience.
 
junkyardhero said:
my experience was entirely the opposite. i was installing the kit for a client and every aspect of it was a struggle. the majority of that was due to scarebird going in and out of business, but i don't think that to be a valid excuse for the over all poor experience.
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The only "issue" i had was a delay in shipping, but it wasn't a big deal, just a few days I believe

Like I said, I got the entire kit from them, brackets, rotors, calipers, hoses and pads

The only parts I had to get on my own were the studs and the brake fluid (I didn't upgrade the master cylinder at that time)

I believe this was back in 2017 so perhaps they as a company were in a better place, but I agree that there are limits to what is acceptable

And I was just hotrodding, I wasn't trying to run a business like it sounds you were
 
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