front drums w/o hubs?

-
pozet,

Thanks for posting the link. I always read about swage cutters, but never saw one and most brake shops today don't know what they are, even though many manufacturers swedged the studs in the 60's. I would try a cheaper hole saw or dremel cutter before paying $90 though.

I think the swage was just an assembly aid in the factory and not essential since replacement drums are never re-swaged. You see similar holding aids in newer cars. My minivans used a thin push washer to temporarily hold the rotor tight against the hub. Most Euro cars secure the rotor to the hub with a flat-head screw. But, you don't require either since the wheel holds the rotor or drum tight.

I have yet to deal with swaged studs since all my cars had replacement drums. Without a swage, I have always dropped/thrown the drum (inner-side down) on a parking lot a few times and the hub falls out.
 
I wondered if/when someone would suggest the proper tool in this thread.
The typical hole saw probably wouldn't be deep enough for the job anyway.

How do you figure? Most of them are around 3" long. I would love to think 3" worth of hole would get the swedge cut out. lol

I honestly will never understand some of you. The hole saw works great, is cheap and plentiful.
 
I had to deal with this very issue on my '73 Scamp this weekend. I used a 5/8" hole saw as Rusty Rat Rod suggested and it worked fine. Thanks!
 
Nevada
Thanks for relating the size. Your car has 1/2"D wheel studs. 1972 & earlier cars have 7/16"D so would need a smaller hole saw.

Great that your car had the original drums (swaged-on), which suggests low miles. I have never run into an original drum in my cars.
 
I've been wondering about this topic all day. I got the front drums off and the hub and lugs being attached totally threw me off. I have the replacement drums already, what would you guys recommend I do? Take old and new to a machine shop and have them swap the parts over for me?
 
I don't know what a shop would charge. The answer to your question may depend on what tools you currently have. I already had a drill press and a hydraulic press, so it was easy to use a hole saw to cut out the drums. Also the lug studs on my hubs were rusty and new ones were cheap, so I wanted to replace them anyway. Now my scamp has new drums, new lug studs and nuts, as well as all new brake parts. If you don't have a drill press you may want to consider using a shop.
 
Never mind my post #29. I just remembered that 1973 drum cars were still SBP w/ 7/16"D studs. It was only disk BBP that had the 1/2"D studs, unless I am mixing that up.
 
I know that this is an old post but I wanted to say thank you for all the great info. My '67 dart has the original 10" front drum brakes and I need to separate the hub from the drum to replace the drums. This thread gave me the info I needed to make an informed decision. Parts/tools on the way. I am going to try to save the LH studs but have back up RH studs on the way in case.
 
I know that this is an old post but I wanted to say thank you for all the great info. My '67 dart has the original 10" front drum brakes and I need to separate the hub from the drum to replace the drums. This thread gave me the info I needed to make an informed decision. Parts/tools on the way. I am going to try to save the LH studs but have back up RH studs on the way in case.
Good plan. There was a reason for those LH studs and they were used on many cars besides Mopars, even some Japanese. The reason was that the lug nuts are less likely to loosen on the L side if LH threads. Don't ask me the theory why. A good guess is that it so confused owners that the benefit wasn't worth the hassle, plus the extra PN's. The result was that later tire monkeys didn't know about LH threads. I would have to watch them close at tire shops on my Mopars. Even having the service monkey write in large letters "LH threads on L side" on the work request, I would see the shop monkey turning up their impact wrench trying to get the lug nuts off, turning them the wrong way. F their rules, I would run back there and inform them. A Goodyear once spun my stud probably doing that, then put the wheel back on that way without telling me. I found out later when trying to change the tire on the side of the freeway and couldn't since the stud just spun.
 
-
Back
Top