Front Frame rail info needed

[convx4]

I have a 1966 valiant that is new to me.
The car has sat since its 1994 accident when its brakes went out.
I finished disassembling the front end sheet metal, and have most parts needed for replacement.
It looks like the drivers side frame rail is moved 1 1/2" toward the passengers side.
While the passenger side is less than 1/2" moved the same direction.

My assumption is that both frame rails are straight, correct me if I'm not.

Can some one post a good measurement of between bumper mounting faces.

Thanks

 

[cosgig]

What are you basing your measurements off of? I have a 66 here that I can check if you give me some kind of idea what and where your measurements are based on! Are you squaring your straight edge off of something? Is there any sign of accident or damage? I see you have replacement parts of another color!! Geof

 

[Jim Lusk]

Frame shops aren't all that expensive and they've got the equipment to get the car absolutely right...

 

[sireland67]

See if this helps.

http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=221060

 

[cosgig]

Oops, saw its been in an accident! Yep, the drivers side has been put out pretty significantly, and the passenger side not as bad but still out! I just straight edged my little 66 test bed car and the front rails are almost arrow straight!

Yep, you need to visit the frame shop, and if you need either side just PM me and ill cut one out!! Geof

 

[convx4]

Thanks for the reply's.

My mopar . com has a 1966 Plymouth service manual available for download. I found my measurement, It was 30 3/4".

Would dropping a plum bob from each point (per the frame print) to the floor be an acceptable way of measuring ? How does some one do this at home?

 

[amx364]

On a frame plate. Not really a home job, unless it is just for practice.

 

[Dodge33]

I have a 1966 valiant that is new to me.
The car has sat since its 1994 accident when its brakes went out.
I finished disassembling the front end sheet metal, and have most parts needed for replacement.
It looks like the drivers side frame rail is moved 1 1/2" toward the passengers side.
While the passenger side is less than 1/2" moved the same direction.

My assumption is that both frame rails are straight, correct me if I'm not.

Can some one post a good measurement of between bumper mounting faces.

Thanks

If you want to try to find out how far the front frames rails are out, is to get the frame dimension chart(s) usually in the correct year service manual for your car. There are locating hole's in all torsion bar crossmembers (in the bottom of the crossmember) and you will need a helper to measure, from the correct hole (in frame dimension chart) to the locating hole(s) under the front framerail in a ( X pattern) measure from left side torsion area, to the (right) passenger side of front framerail, and vise-versa. All nominal measurements from the factory are usually within an 1/8", but have seen 3/16-1/4" on some, or more. It is best, if you can measure in the straightest possible way, but is very hard to do, with the engine and trans in the car. Like some others have already said, it may be more appropriate, to take it to a GOOD FRAME SHOP",
where they can put it up on a rack, and use tram gauges, and that will tell them everything you need to know! Also, ask around first, before you take it anywhere, as there are alot of fly by night operations, that just don't give a sh** about the kind of work they do!! I just have a hard time, trusting anyone
I don't know, or heard good stuff about. Good luck!

 

[1968FormulaS340]

That rail should have a good buckle on the inside.

But yes, like others have said. Your best bet is a frame rack. At me shop it would be $50 an hour with a 2.5 hour minimum.

I could probably have the car in spec in a couple hours, but that could quickly change depending on what may be going on that can't be seen in the pics.

How does the front sheet metal fit? Is the whole front end swung to the right?

 

[convx4]

Yes, their is a buckle on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side.
I don't want to cut out the bad rail and then replace it with a good one. I'm not planning a full restoration at this time. I don't want to get my self in a situation where I will end up doing a full restoration.

The sheet metal was tweaked, not supper bad. I can address this when fitting everything back together. It looks like the part of the frame that is bent is where the bumper attaches at the frame. But things will need to be measured to be sure.

Sadly, I feel the pain that no one is willing to do good work on old cars.
That's why I prefer to preform the work my self. I know that doing this will cost more (time and money) than some one with the proper tools.
If this doesn't work I will try to find some one with a frame rack.

Would a frame shop add heat to the bent area in adding its strengthening?

 

[Dodge33]

Yes, their is a buckle on the inside of the frame rail on the drivers side.
I don't want to cut out the bad rail and then replace it with a good one. I'm not planning a full restoration at this time. I don't want to get my self in a situation where I will end up doing a full restoration.

The sheet metal was tweaked, not supper bad. I can address this when fitting everything back together. It looks like the part of the frame that is bent is where the bumper attaches at the frame. But things will need to be measured to be sure.

Sadly, I feel the pain that no one is willing to do good work on old cars.
That's why I prefer to preform the work my self. I know that doing this will cost more (time and money) than some one with the proper tools.
If this doesn't work I will try to find some one with a frame rack.

Would a frame shop add heat to the bent area in adding its strengthening?

Is the buckle in front of where the K-frame is bolted to the frame? If it is, it probably only has bent front frame horns, where the bumper bolts to. It is just an imaginary guess, being I'm not there to view it. In my opinion, I think it would be better off, if you took it somewhere with a frame rack. You'll be much futher ahead, after the fact. Also, I have always seen them pull the bent area's back in position (cold) without heating. Good luck.

 

[1968FormulaS340]

I agree with Dodge33. It's really hard to fully evaluate what's going on from the pics. It needs to be measured.

I do this for a living. It's really just a simple matter of measuring, comparing what you have to what the factory specifications are, and moving everything back.

If you don't get the structure in alignment you will have a hell of a time aligning the sheet-metal. This is where people start slotting mounting holes. Mounting holes should never need to be slotted (or made bigger).

Old cars and new cars should all be the same to a good technician.

 

[BillGrissom]

If more time than money, you could probably fix it yourself. My wife's minivan had the front shoved over 4" after an accident. I bent it back with a Harbor Freight porta-power (knock-off). I braced the van in the door of my solid concrete garage. Have driven it 120,000 miles since and goes perfectly straight when you let go of the wheel.

 

[cosgig]

Having a frame shop do it isn't that much money, and they'll have t done pronto! Call one up and if they don't do the old cars, ask for a referral to who does! I'm sure there are a couple different places in your area! Geof

 

[64_Barracuda]

Convx4,
Hey bud I know what you are going through, my car was hit what I though was bad but not so bad after I got all the sheet metal off. After I put all the sheet metal back on the front bumper was not too bad took a while for it to be straight. Radiator would not bolt back in took some time undoing some spot welds and a hammer. But I agree if it is that bad put it on a frame rack. I am in the same boat I don't want to put too much into it before I have tons of money in it.

Only had to move the radiator support a 1/4 inch or so.....