FRONT SHOCKS

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and you'd lose that bet.

i've driven, built and tuned suspension for the street and track.

again, the bilsteins are about the best non-adjustable shock on the market for the money. they'll cover a wide range of wheel rates and are perfectly acceptable for street and track.

Ok. But that’s for YOUR chassis, YOUR driving style, YOUR tires etc.

I have no doubt you found the Bilstein acceptable, but thinking you couldn’t do better with adjustable shock is nonsense.

I’m not the it’s “good enough” so I can save a few shekels guy.
 
Im usually in the KYB, Monroe, crowd in these old dinosaurs.

But in this situation with a RMS rear, I would do some research and splurge a bit.
 
Ok. But that’s for YOUR chassis, YOUR driving style, YOUR tires etc.

I have no doubt you found the Bilstein acceptable, but thinking you couldn’t do better with adjustable shock is nonsense.

I’m not the it’s “good enough” so I can save a few shekels guy.
he asked for a recommendation not the be all end all of suspension.

i've used those shocks a TON across a wild cross section of chassis, driving styles and tires. they flat *** work.

some people don't have the time, experience, inclination or tenacity to set up adjustable shocks and that's fine and for that purpose the billy's will be more than adequate.

not everything has to be johnny hot ****. sometimes good enough is just fine for the application. see: edelbrock 1406
 
He said it in post 5.

As near as I can find the Bilstein RCD is about 500ish a set. A set of Vikings are about 900ish if you shop around.

Is the 80% cost increase worth it. I say yes.

You are asking why so ill see if I can.

The way is a shock has to dampen both directions. I say bump and rebound because I grew up riding dirt bikes. You can say compression and extension if you want to talk with engineers.

Let’s say you smack a good sized bump. You want the shock to suck it up and not upset the car taking the hit. Thats bump or compression. Don’t forget you are using the shock to control the motion and energy of the spring…

So…now the shock just got nailed in bump (compression) and the spring is now loaded more than it was before the bump. So the spring is trying to force the suspension (and the shock) to go back to it’s normal position, where it was before the bump.

If you didn’t have a shock at all, the spring would move very fast and force the suspension and the body of the car back apart. And then the suspension would have the opposite reaction and it will try to compress the spring again and demos, but with less force (energy). And the cycle continues until all the energy in the spring is used up and the chassis settles down again until the next event.

With an adjustable shock you can control both bump and rebound to tailor the ride exactly how you want it. Or as close as the valving will let you.

A single adjustable shock is equally worthless. You can adjust it, but you are changing the bump and the rebound together. And who says you WANT to change both? Very rare are the cases when I’ve wanted to change the bump and rebound together in a fixed amount. It blows my mind that guys can’t grasp that bump and rebound need to be tuned as separate circuits.

Why does this matter on the street? Because you can easily tune the shock to do exactly what you want it to do. If you like going into corners hot and by hot I don’t mean canyon carving, balls out road race cornering. I’m just saying driving like you have a performance car.

You can control bump (compression) but stiffening the dampening so the chassis doesnt roll up on the outside tire.

You can adjust the rebound (extension) so one the spring is loaded it doesn’t push back with enough force to upset the chassis.

And you adjust them separately so one doesn’t affect the other. You can’t do that with a non adjustable or single adjustable shock.

Like I said, I grew up riding dirt bikes and I know when forks and shocks started coming with external adjustment on them.

It revolutionized riding. You could tailor the bike (chassis) to you weight, speed and riding skill like you never could before.

I would never suggest to anyone to buy a dirt bike without adjustable suspension. That would be caveman ****.

It’s not different with a car.

WELL ****.. i missed post 5....
 
as well it shouldn't!

10 lashes with a well used fan belt for you!
lucifer-morningstar.gif
 
What's bad is i went back to check and missed the RMS thing still.... i'm not that old and my brain is sooo screwed already... few more years and i will be wandering house to house in my underwear
 
he asked for a recommendation not the be all end all of suspension.

i've used those shocks a TON across a wild cross section of chassis, driving styles and tires. they flat *** work.

some people don't have the time, experience, inclination or tenacity to set up adjustable shocks and that's fine and for that purpose the billy's will be more than adequate.

not everything has to be johnny hot ****. sometimes good enough is just fine for the application. see: edelbrock 1406


Then he should ignore my RECOMMENDATION and stay in the dark ages with you.

Your Edelbrock example is perfect. If half assed is good enough then use it.

If you don’t want to learn how a carb works and how to tune it (and I blame no one of they don’t because I can see all the fucked up, *** backwards bullshit guys put out there about how to tune a Holley and I know it’s hard to separate fact from fiction) then buy the Edelbrock and live with it.

I’ll leave with this analogy because it’s the same difference.

If a non adjustable shock is good enough, you shouldn’t buy a radial tire. A bias ply is good enough for street cruising, drive in movies (if you are old enough to know what that even is) and taking your girlfriend garden golfing.

Do you see the lunacy in that? That’s how I see the shock decision.

Again, MY recommendation is buy an adjustable shock. Why your panties are all ate up is your problem.

Deal with it.
 
Then he should ignore my RECOMMENDATION and stay in the dark ages with you.

Your Edelbrock example is perfect. If half assed is good enough then use it.

If you don’t want to learn how a carb works and how to tune it (and I blame no one of they don’t because I can see all the fucked up, *** backwards bullshit guys put out there about how to tune a Holley and I know it’s hard to separate fact from fiction) then buy the Edelbrock and live with it.

I’ll leave with this analogy because it’s the same difference.

If a non adjustable shock is good enough, you shouldn’t buy a radial tire. A bias ply is good enough for street cruising, drive in movies (if you are old enough to know what that even is) and taking your girlfriend garden golfing.

Do you see the lunacy in that? That’s how I see the shock decision.

Again, MY recommendation is buy an adjustable shock. Why your panties are all ate up is your problem.

Deal with it.
you seem to be the one with ate up panties that people aren't kowtowing to your magnificence.

your analogy of radials vs. bias plys is absurd and you should feel absurd for trying to even pass that off as a sensible argument. super disingenuous.

i'm done discussing the matter with you because in my paradigm your recommendation in this matter is of no mind to me because of your narrow view.

good day.
 
you seem to be the one with ate up panties that people aren't kowtowing to your magnificence.

your analogy of radials vs. bias plys is absurd and you should feel absurd for trying to even pass that off as a sensible argument. super disingenuous.

i'm done discussing the matter with you because in my paradigm your recommendation in this matter is of no mind to me because of your narrow view.

good day.
I only had one more page of War and Peace to read to finish the entire work...I'm still reading post #26 LOL
 
I only had one more page of War and Peace to read to finish the entire work...I'm still reading post #26 LOL
That's starting to remind me of most 318 cam threads where another member posts a looooooong thread. I don't like to read that long. Just the first few sentences and then I scroll on past.
 
you seem to be the one with ate up panties that people aren't kowtowing to your magnificence.

your analogy of radials vs. bias plys is absurd and you should feel absurd for trying to even pass that off as a sensible argument. super disingenuous.

i'm done discussing the matter with you because in my paradigm your recommendation in this matter is of no mind to me because of your narrow view.

good day.


lol.

You don’t like my recommendation. I don’t care. You are bothered, not me.
 
As I said, a non adjustable shock is useless. No two cars are the same and no two drivers want the same.

It’s 2025 and guys still want to buy non adjustable **** to save a few bucks.

I’ll never understand that.

Just make sure the next carb you buy or the next EFI you get isnt adjustable.

That’s the same thing. That would be idiotic, moronic and senseless and no one would suggest saving a few bucks for that.

One last word. Because most guys have never had adjustable shocks they can’t see the value in them. There is difference between price and value.

Buying non adjustable shocks is misguided at best.
Almost all your replies on this website are geared towards max performance and race applications. Most don’t want or care about that. They just want a descent classic to cruise down the road with on the weekend. Launching their car 4K rpm to beat a rice rocket or corvette or whatever is likely not something they’re going to do with their 10 year old, or nagging wife in the car

Yes double adjustable are better, but not everyone needs them or has the budget for them.

I’m almost certain you’ll argue with this post too like you do to so many others all the time.
 
I only had one more page of War and Peace to read to finish the entire work...I'm still reading post #26 LOL
oh, it gets better!
[narrator: it most certainly does not get better, dear reader]

i'll give you the cliffs notes: guy that views car building thru a narrow max performance only pair of rose colored goggles recommends something most people don't need and could never use, then lambasts anybody that disagrees with him. film at 11
 
oh, it gets better!
[narrator: it most certainly does not get better, dear reader]

i'll give you the cliffs notes: guy that views car building thru a narrow max performance only pair of rose colored goggles recommends something most people don't need and could never use, then lambasts anybody that disagrees with him. film at 11


I didn’t lambaste anyone.

I backed up what I said. Get real.
 

Bilstein RCD look to be $254 for the pair.
Viking double adjustables are $1,000 for all 4 shocks.
I have the viking double adjustables and paid $750 back in 2020 for them. At that time most non-adjustable or single adjustables were the same cost or more. They work awesome and the quality is exceptional. At today's $1k prrice I might look at other alternatives though.
 
Almost all your replies on this website are geared towards max performance and race applications. Most don’t want or care about that. They just want a descent classic to cruise down the road with on the weekend. Launching their car 4K rpm to beat a rice rocket or corvette or whatever is likely not something they’re going to do with their 10 year old, or nagging wife in the car

Yes double adjustable are better, but not everyone needs them or has the budget for them.

I’m almost certain you’ll argue with this post too like you do to so many others all the time.


The Viking is a racing shock? In 2025 no one I know would consider the Viking shock a racing shock.

It’s a performance shock.

What’s sad is guys lose their **** because they think everything I say is pointing to “racing” and that’s just nonsense.

The OP asked for recommendations for a QUALITY
shock (I think that’s what he said or something close to that) and thats what I gave.

And all the cheap fuckers come along and tell everyone what THEY think is good enough.

Again, it’s Romper Room and I’ll never suggest to anyone to buy a non adjustable shock.

It’s 2025.
 
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