So in a street car, I would say definitely run a front sway bar. The question is, when do you make that change to remove? Any drag racing event? When running 4" front runners as you don't corner too much anyway? Drag race only?
Front Sway Bar - When to Use
- Thread starter 71GSSDemon
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33IMP
Well-Known Member
I've had three cars that I consider fast. All used pizza cutters, none had front sway bars (they probably should have), and none had pretentions of going around corners fast. All were driven on the street, but rarely.
If your car can go around corners, or you want it to, and it has decent tires on the front, NOT pizza cutters, it needs a sway bar.
For an occasional trip to the strip, you can disconnect the links, temporarily. Probably not necessary, but something that can be played with.
If your car can go around corners, or you want it to, and it has decent tires on the front, NOT pizza cutters, it needs a sway bar.
For an occasional trip to the strip, you can disconnect the links, temporarily. Probably not necessary, but something that can be played with.
Thank you. Mine is mostly street, but noticed I have very little front suspension travel when I recorded it on a test on the road. I know my shocks would be wrong for this exercise and the 340 T bars aren't helping. Just looking for what other people are doing and when.
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Eric,
I run a sway bar on my drag car. some guys do some don’t. Sometimes I land hard after launch if I panic and lift to severely rather than actually do what I am supposed to do and drive thru it. In my mind the sway bar gives me some added structural strength on front end if something bad happens. I am by no means the best racer out there but that is my thoughts.
I run a sway bar on my drag car. some guys do some don’t. Sometimes I land hard after launch if I panic and lift to severely rather than actually do what I am supposed to do and drive thru it. In my mind the sway bar gives me some added structural strength on front end if something bad happens. I am by no means the best racer out there but that is my thoughts.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
ANY street car should have a bar. And they should have, a long time ago. It always amazed me, EG, Dad the family man buys the low buck inline six Chev moredoor, it comes with no bar, lesser suspension and shocks and little tiny brakes. Playboy and girlfriend/ wife/ no kids buy the Impala SS HT and it comes with better suspension, better brakes, and a bar. The family with kids weighs more total, going down the road, and could have used all that.
Thanks John. I know my converter is killing it, but I have to decide what I truly want with this car. I also am tied because if what it is. I will see what it does on the 15th as it is now and decide from there. For now, it is a ball even if not fast
33IMP
Well-Known Member
Did you know my dad?!? First new car my dad bought when I was a kid?
Six cylinder powerglide 63 impala four door hardtop.
At least my grandpa bought a 2dr 64 Impala with a 283.....
So here is the video. Not much suspension travel.
abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
not like it launched hard. i wouldn't expect much front lift with such a soft launch.
With the current converter, that is the best I can do. Hold brakes to close to 2000 then go. I think I need about a 4000 tight converter.
Have you tried launching off idle, or maybe footbraking to about 1500 rpm? You might hit the converter harder that way. I also think I remember you having a dual quad, tunnel ram set up? Are you running enough timing advance? On mine, I run a locked out distributor at 38 degrees. Very snappy at launch.
65TerrorCuda
Well-Known Member
I disconnected the swaybar on a suzuki samurai and that thing became a handful on the freeway if the wind blew sideways. Yikes
Never had any issues without one in the 65 barracuda or 64 dart
Never had any issues without one in the 65 barracuda or 64 dart
I did try idle and 1500 ish. Maybe a little better.
Yes 440, tunnel ram and 660s. I have 18⁰ initial and 36⁰ all in at 2200 with no vacuum advance.
2400 B&M converter as I didn't understand. Now I want a PTC 4000 Tight. My mistake.
Yesterday I had 3.23 and last night changed to 3.91 and altered the launch a little. WOT from any rpm launch falls dead. 3/4 throttle for a launch the WOT works well. I have been trying to figure out if I need more fuel sooner or less fuel for longer. It works awesome for all of my normal driving...90% of the cars use.
Factory 340 bars
Disclaimer...I am NOT trying to make this an unstreetworthy drag car. Just trying to make it the best it can be. I believe I need a new converter as I do not want to change the tunnel ram and 660s
Yeah if you're trying to keep it a street car you are on the right track, get a converter.
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