Fuel cell install questions(pictures of members fuel cells)

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gtmopar

Phuckin A!
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Hey guys, ive done many modifications on cars before but ive never put a fuel cell in the trunk. The cell i have is 20 gallons and has a rear sump. My question is does the sump have to be facing the rear and whats the best way to recess it? Im thinking angle iron frame but i dont want it to look tacky. I cant drop it to low because im doing a custom center exit exhaust. Does anyone have pictures of their fuel cells? The trunk floor is out and im ready to start. Just looking for ideas. Thanks
 
I got an aluminum fuel cell and made a frame out of square tubing and made legs out the side and attached it between the frame rails. I like how it turned out.
Jared
 

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the second picture it is not bolted in, just sitting in there. It is crooked in the picture.
 
Perfect thanks man thats actually the cell i have. Looks good and that helps me a lot. I was thinking i would have to tig angle aluminum on there.
 
Here's mine

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The spare tire area had pin holes anyways

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Nice work man. It's makes it nice to have it on the rotisserie huh?
 
That's for sure, we started without one and after a few days of laying underneath eating dirt, sparks, dust etc I borrowed this one.
 
I used the Aeromotive A1000 Stealth 20 gallon fuel cell, internal pump and filter.

We first made a full steel frame all the way around out of 1/2 x 2 stock.

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Then made a sheet metal box, complete with strengthening bead rolls.

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Little piece of trim to go around trunk latch.

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Here you can see how my tank sits from outside.
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And mostly done...

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I'm not into going to the track yet my 64 Signet has a JAZ 22 gallon fuel cell in the trunk which slips in an 1/8 inch thick one piece aluminum encasement and bolted down with straps. Has worked well for 25 years.
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That is a great installation job! In case the OP doesn't want to go to that extent of fabrication, a simple hole cut into the trunk floor to accomodate the sump will suffice too. Yes, put the sump facing the rear as the purpose of it is to maintain a supply of fuel to the oulets during hard acceleration. You can fabricate a guard to cover all but the rear outlets of the sump like this one.
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I just put one in my car about a month ago after changing rear end housings (original gas tank would not clear the back braced rear). Couple of things to keep in mind before you start cutting if you are going to take this to the track:

1. You have to box in the sump with steel if it is outside of the body (see NHRA reg below). It is easier to put the fuel cell on a pedistal in the trunk and run the lines out the floor, rather than cutting a hold and building a box to protect the sump (I thought of this AFTER I cut my trunk :banghead: ).

2. You have to build a rear firewall to keep it NHRA legal (see NHRA reg below).

From the NHRA rule book:

General Regulations 1.5
Tanks: When permitted by class regulations, fuel tanks located outside body and/or frame must be enclosed in a steel tube frame constructed of minimum 1 1/4-inch O.D. x .058 chromoly or .118 mild steel tubing. All fuel tanks must be isolated from the driver’s compartment by a firewall, completely sealed to prevent any fuel from entering the driver’s compartment. All fuel tanks must have a pressure cap and be vented outside of body. A positive-locking screw-on fuel tank cap is mandatory on all open-bodied cars. Insulated fuel tanks prohibited. When used, fuel cells must have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. The metal box must be constructed of minimum .024 steel or .032 aluminum. Nonmetallic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to frame.

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks for the tips and pics. Well done jobs guys. I dont think im going to be vintage racing but who knows but thanks for the tech info. Going to start fabbing up the trunk floor and building the framework for the cell monday.
 
I just put one in my car about a month ago after changing rear end housings (original gas tank would not clear the back braced rear). Couple of things to keep in mind before you start cutting if you are going to take this to the track:

1. You have to box in the sump with steel if it is outside of the body (see NHRA reg below). It is easier to put the fuel cell on a pedistal in the trunk and run the lines out the floor, rather than cutting a hold and building a box to protect the sump (I thought of this AFTER I cut my trunk :banghead: ).

2. You have to build a rear firewall to keep it NHRA legal (see NHRA reg below).

From the NHRA rule book:

General Regulations 1.5
Tanks: When permitted by class regulations, fuel tanks located outside body and/or frame must be enclosed in a steel tube frame constructed of minimum 1 1/4-inch O.D. x .058 chromoly or .118 mild steel tubing. All fuel tanks must be isolated from the driver’s compartment by a firewall, completely sealed to prevent any fuel from entering the driver’s compartment. All fuel tanks must have a pressure cap and be vented outside of body. A positive-locking screw-on fuel tank cap is mandatory on all open-bodied cars. Insulated fuel tanks prohibited. When used, fuel cells must have a metal box protecting the part of the fuel cell that is outside of body lines or trunk floor, excluding hose connection area in rear. The metal box must be constructed of minimum .024 steel or .032 aluminum. Nonmetallic fuel cells or tanks must be grounded to frame.

I hope this helps.

Does a back seat count as a firewall between the trunk and inside of car?
 
this is how my cell is going in the truck.. not finish yet but hope to be really soon.... i plan to make a mount on the side for the pump filter and then have a return line also.. thats if i dont buy a rons toilet set up first......:D:Dthinking really hard about it..:prayer::prayer::prayer:
 

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You realize this thread is or 4 1/2 years old?
maybe so, but still interesting. I put a new tank in the fish, but would build a ,exact fit, alum, fuel cell for the spare tire well, if I go that route.
 
The circle track crowd has the same bulkhead regs. It's not a bad idea when you think about it. More than one occasion i can think of, crew guy in a hurry fuels the fuel cell, neglects to replace the cap. Smells pretty bad in the driver's compartment without that bulkhead, hard to clean up too, crawling through roll bars and such. Not a bad idea to run the vent to the outside either.
 
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