fuel delivery problem

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UPDATE: with fuel being drawn from the fuel can, I rigged up a long bypass line from the can to the carb, I'm getting 3psi at the gauge. the engine starts and stalls run for about a second then dies
How is the fuel level in the carb?

I wouldn't be to worried about the engine stalling at this point, that may be more of a tuning issue

But...youre making progress
 
If the electric fuel pump is mounted high, you will still have the same issue. You could leave the fuel lines attached, and unbolt the pump from the mounts, so it hangs down some, and try it again.
thanks...I'll try that later when I get home
 
I mounted the fuel pump lower, ( axle level) and I mounted the fuel pressure gauge up front. I'm not getting enough pressure to get a reading on my gauge. had the same problem with my mech. pump too
 
i still want to know the float level
(dont really care about holley or carter right now...but float level will be an indication of fuel pressure/flow)

so, we verified the pump works when running hose, but not the lines on the car, right ?

like i said before, hook one section of the car up at a time untill things stop, and that section has the problem
 
i still want to know the float level
(dont really care about holley or carter right now...but float level will be an indication of fuel pressure/flow)

so, we verified the pump works when running hose, but not the lines on the car, right ?

like i said before, hook one section of the car up at a time untill things stop, and that section has the problem
pump works when running hose, but not the lines, blew low pressure air through lines no blockage, there was some fuel in the lines. wife was standing on other side of line...pretty funny. the problem is the same no matter which carb is on the car
 
this is what I'm leaning towards, I have pre-bent stainless lines there are a lot of bends.
with the fuel pump only putting out 3psi ( at the pump) it may not be enough pressure to reach the front of the car.
 
You got two brand new pumps, and neither on of them puts out what it should...chances are, it is not the pump

So, IF the pump is good it is either not getting the fuel in...or it is not getting fuel out

Now, in order to get fuel OUT of the tank, you need to be able to get air IN to the tank
So check that
We talked about connections on the fuel lines, did you ever address that?
 
this is where I'm at now. put the thermoquad back on, left the fuel pump at the lowered position unhooked the purge canister plugged up those ports on the carb. now I'm getting almost 5psi by the carb. my new problem is it will run while I engage the starter as soon as I let off the key it stalls any ideas ?
 
Classic symptom of a bad ballast resistor
You can bypass it for a quick test or swap out the resistor from the ignition for the one from the wipers
 
you're trying to break in a cam ?
how often/long have you cranked it?
 
mhhh
we need to reassess the situation before we wipe out the cam

lets see if anyone else has any suggestions
 
After you get your fuel issue sorted out, Do not start the engine!
You are gonna have to re-apply the break-in camlube,no exceptions.
To begin the break-in, ALL support systems have to be known to be properly functioning.
As soon as the engine starts with the break-in lube properly applied, the engine HAS to be revved up to minimum 2000rpm for the recommended period of time;usually 20 minutes.
This means the cooling system has been proven, the fuel system has been proven,the oil filter is tight, the automatic has been prefilled, the rear tires are in the air, the fire extinguisher is handy, running water is nearby, the baseline timing is close,and really you should have a helper or two; one on the extinguisher, one in the car manning the kill switch. You be the eyes.
Then; then let her rip!
 
Send me a plane ticket....return,lol
Pick me up at the airport, but blindfold me before passing the city gate; the only scotrun I wanna see is my own, and even then, just long enough to wash it.lol.
 
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