agreed... just wanted to see if the gauge had a curve or was linear
Fuel Gauge Sending Units compared
- Thread starter rich006
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If you use resistors to do some testing, make sure they are high enough wattage. At full scale, 12 volts divided by 13 + 10 ohms (gauge + sender) is about 0.5 amps. For the resistor, 0.5 amps times 10 ohms is 5 watts. A little quarter watt resistor will burn your fingers & change value after a bit. No need to ask how I know that.
I overkilled my resisters at 100W power resistors.
UH UH UH!
Reality... gauges run at ~6V but your point is well taken
Well, I suppose it is a matter of interpretation, with the original regulator, it was a pulsed 12v, so 12 for awhile then 0 for awhile, so it averages to about 6. Math is still good, but only while it is at 12v. So on the average, you would be correct.
Agreed... pulsed DC we are both right ~50% of the time!
pishta
I know I'm right....
rebuild an original. wire is available and the laminate board can be cut with a keyhole saw. The shape of the wire wrapped board is the key as noted. Could even "recurve' the spectra unit using a new board.
Here is another option, a digital flow meter. Put in 16 gallons and just monitor how much you used. ...$25. Maybe?
Digital Flow Meter Water Flowmeter Temperature Time Record with G1/2 Flow sensor BIO | Wish
Here is another option, a digital flow meter. Put in 16 gallons and just monitor how much you used. ...$25. Maybe?
Digital Flow Meter Water Flowmeter Temperature Time Record with G1/2 Flow sensor BIO | Wish
Middle of 80-10 ohm range is 45. Factory spec for half tank or middle is 23 ohms. There's your sign.
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I just bought a new sending unit. I had to do a major rebend the fuel line so I could get it to fit into the tank. Which led to the end of it sitting higher in the tank that I am comfortable with. I left it as I think I was coming close to crimping the tube. Both the gasket and locking ring were way too small and had to reuse the parts I had just removed. I complained to the seller and he gave me a full refund, just this afternoon.
This is the 4th or 5th sending unit I have tried. They have all been abortions. But the strangest thing happened with this new sender. Before I went to the station to fill the tank, the gauge was on empty, When I finished filling the tank, that gauge was pinned to the full stop.
That is the first time, in over six years, there was a positive sign that the sender may be working properly. Keeping my fingers crossed
This is the 4th or 5th sending unit I have tried. They have all been abortions. But the strangest thing happened with this new sender. Before I went to the station to fill the tank, the gauge was on empty, When I finished filling the tank, that gauge was pinned to the full stop.
That is the first time, in over six years, there was a positive sign that the sender may be working properly. Keeping my fingers crossed
Keep a gallon in the trunk.
My old Spectra would read full for 3/4 of the tank. Then it would read 1/2 then 1/4 in about 50 miles then show empty. And you best be near a gas station
My old Spectra would read full for 3/4 of the tank. Then it would read 1/2 then 1/4 in about 50 miles then show empty. And you best be near a gas station
Pawned
N.R.A. Lifetime Member - And damn proud of it
I have always kept 2 to 3 gallons of gas in a can in the trunk. I probably always will
MileHighDart
Well-Known Member
On a related subject.
Sometime soon i'll be doing a custom gauge panel with Autometer Ultra Lite gauges.
Let say the stock sending unit is 80 - 10 like the original poster said.
Several different autometer gauges are available with differing ohm ranges. The ones that are closest to 80 - 10 are.
73 - 10
and
90 - 0
Which one of these should I order ? or which would get me closest to a properly functioning fuel gauge ?
Sometime soon i'll be doing a custom gauge panel with Autometer Ultra Lite gauges.
Let say the stock sending unit is 80 - 10 like the original poster said.
Several different autometer gauges are available with differing ohm ranges. The ones that are closest to 80 - 10 are.
73 - 10
and
90 - 0
Which one of these should I order ? or which would get me closest to a properly functioning fuel gauge ?
73 to 10 would be the best choice
Woodys_Cuda
Ontario, Canada
I have a spectra in mine. I noticed the same thing as you did. With a full tank you think you're getting great gas mileage. lol. Once it reads 1/4 tank I go and fill up because it's like playing Russian roulette.
Great thread!
When my new spectra unit reads 1/8 of a tank it takes about 10 gallons to fill the tank. I like it that way - better to have lots of gas in the tank when the gauge reads low than the opposite!
timk225
Well-Known Member
Thread Necro!
I've been watching the new fuel sender / tank in my 1973 Duster since I installed it, and it would be easy to just keep track of miles to empty, but I like to have an accurate fuel gauge.
When I put the new fuel tank (Made in Taiwan) in, I got this sender from Year One: https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/bg914
And after watching the OEM fuel gauge habits for many tanks, I see what I'm dealing with. It will go from reading Full to Empty in roughly 125 miles. My Slant 6 is getting right around 15 mpg. I will fill it up and write down the mileage, knowing I am good for 200 miles. I once drove it until it ran empty on a highway, and I got about 235 miles total that tank. I've looked at the resistance charts in this topic, and it seems about right.
I'm this close to getting an AutoMeter fuel gauge and their Fuel Bridge to calibrate it. I'll run a new wire from the tank to the fuel bridge to minimize resistance. I'll use their https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-fuel-level-73-10-linear-z-series.html fuel gauge with it.
This wouldn't be hard to do, and I have it all figured out, but of course auto meter makes their calibration system wrong.
With my 1973 Duster on level ground, I'd use a protractor, string, and weight to get the angle of the tank as it is installed in the car. Then remove the tank, dump out any gas, and prop it up so it is at the same exact angle on the ground. Then use gallon jugs of water to count how many it takes to fill, then drain it out. Put in a half a gallon to set my "empty" point, then fill a total of 4 gallons for 1/4, 8 for 1/2, 12 for 3/4, and 16 for full. Then whatever extra amount the tank can hold, just to see.
Now this would be easy if you calibrated the fuel bridge from empty to full. But it is the opposite. You start with the Full setting and work your way towards empty. So I'd have to fill exactly 16 gallons, set full, drain out exactly 4 gallons, set 3/4, etc, or dump the whole tank and refill 12 gallons for the 3/4 calibration.
It is a pain.
I've been watching the new fuel sender / tank in my 1973 Duster since I installed it, and it would be easy to just keep track of miles to empty, but I like to have an accurate fuel gauge.
When I put the new fuel tank (Made in Taiwan) in, I got this sender from Year One: https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/bg914
And after watching the OEM fuel gauge habits for many tanks, I see what I'm dealing with. It will go from reading Full to Empty in roughly 125 miles. My Slant 6 is getting right around 15 mpg. I will fill it up and write down the mileage, knowing I am good for 200 miles. I once drove it until it ran empty on a highway, and I got about 235 miles total that tank. I've looked at the resistance charts in this topic, and it seems about right.
I'm this close to getting an AutoMeter fuel gauge and their Fuel Bridge to calibrate it. I'll run a new wire from the tank to the fuel bridge to minimize resistance. I'll use their https://www.autometer.com/2-1-16-fuel-level-73-10-linear-z-series.html fuel gauge with it.
This wouldn't be hard to do, and I have it all figured out, but of course auto meter makes their calibration system wrong.
With my 1973 Duster on level ground, I'd use a protractor, string, and weight to get the angle of the tank as it is installed in the car. Then remove the tank, dump out any gas, and prop it up so it is at the same exact angle on the ground. Then use gallon jugs of water to count how many it takes to fill, then drain it out. Put in a half a gallon to set my "empty" point, then fill a total of 4 gallons for 1/4, 8 for 1/2, 12 for 3/4, and 16 for full. Then whatever extra amount the tank can hold, just to see.
Now this would be easy if you calibrated the fuel bridge from empty to full. But it is the opposite. You start with the Full setting and work your way towards empty. So I'd have to fill exactly 16 gallons, set full, drain out exactly 4 gallons, set 3/4, etc, or dump the whole tank and refill 12 gallons for the 3/4 calibration.
It is a pain.
My dad drove his now my dart for decades that way
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
EXACTLY! You beat me to it. So do you buy a meter match for your specific application, or do you have to set it up yourself.
I guess I am lucky. About 15 years ago, I bought a new fuel tank and got a repop sending unit at the same time. It has worked fine.
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