Fuel injection

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Porkchop

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I'm wondering about switching my dart 340 to fuel injection. Have no idea about it but I was wondering if anybody could give me any pointers if it's worth it or not and if it would increase the horsepower.

Thanks
Porkchop
 
It will NOT increase HP over a PROPERLY sized, jetted and otherwise properly operating carb

EFI varies IMMENSELY as to amount of work, cost, and problems. I started with used systems to learn, and have been happy, but the cost can get to you.

For me, it works, others, not so much. Be prepared to do a LOT of study and research

Wiring is an issue, as delicate circuits can pick up RFI/ EMI from other circuits and cause problems. Bear in mind that the auto industry has spent BILLIONS learning how to design and implement EFI and keep it working properly

For me, the one big thing "plus" for EFI was vapor lock problems with modern fuel, and better startability duo to fixing fuel boil on shutoff
 
I have a few friends that have had really good luck with it, using Fitek and a Sniper system.
The Fitek is easy to set up.
The Holley Sniper system has alot more setting for custom programming.
Both systems have worked good for them.
 
Holley sniper on mine. Was a learn as I go project, took a while to shake out. I wrapped the wires in faraday tape and grounded one end, easy to do while sitting on the bench rather than in the car after you discover problems. RFI seems to be the biggest issue. LOT of help on Sniper forums. Learn how the tuning works. So easy to make a change, if you like it you keep it, if not change it back in seconds.
Was a pain initially. Friend has a Fitech, we both agree much quicker than a carb. I’m sure a carb expert could maybe match it, but I learned a lot by being able to change timing, afr, cold weather starts, fuel and timing curves in seconds
 
Most comparison tests show little or no difference in peak HP between the bolt on Sniper type systems & a 4 bbl. Main benefit seems to be easier starting etc.
It still uses the intake manifold, so all the vagaries for THAT manifold will remain with EFI. In this scenario, the only thing that is really different is the injection pressure between carb & EFI.
BOTH use pressure; carb uses atmospheric, EFI uses a higher pressure generated by a pump.

If it was my engine........
Spend the money elsewhere. Get a GOOD reliable carb [ that would be any carb except a Holley or clone ] & tune it. If you cannot tune it yourself, have a professional do it. Two good trouble free carbs would be an Edel AVS or Carter TQ.
 
I guess it depends on your goals, if you plan on boosting it later, EFI. If you plan on switching between E85 and gas, EFI. About anything else, you can get a carb to equal or better than EFI.
I switched my new engine over to EFI because I like to learn and let's face it, the last carburetor on a production car in the US was 32 years ago, maybe it's time to step into the 1990's. LOL
 
I guess it depends on your goals, if you plan on boosting it later, EFI. If you plan on switching between E85 and gas, EFI. About anything else, you can get a carb to equal or better than EFI.
I switched my new engine over to EFI because I like to learn and let's face it, the last carburetor on a production car in the US was 32 years ago, maybe it's time to step into the 1990's. LOL
Just sayin, LOL, I owned a Ford Ranger and Dodge 600 (k car) that were both injected--1986 !!!
 
I agree with the previous posters. If you do go Fuel injection make sure your wiring is up to par. Biggest problem with any of the systems is Crappy installs. I went fuel injection and then multiport on my slant 6 because on the slant fuel distribution can be a huge issue due to the manifold design. with multiport I can tune each cylinder as needed.
 
Thanks everyone for your input. I think I'm going to stick with the carb. I am going to build a big block for my 69. I think that should give me something to do.

Porkchop
 
IMO
Unless you plan to race it, a BB is way overkill on the street.
Especially in Darts because of the small factory rear tubs, that can only accept up to 255s. And I mean even a stout 318 can annihilate those in first gear.
If you install a 440, you might as well budget for tubs, relocated springs, and a narrowed rear end. Then, since it's now a fat-tired 440, you might want to install aftermarket axles and/or at least think about a dana.
IMO
for a streeter;
>a nice high-compression 340 and 4-speed auto with 3.91s might fill the bill.
>If you wanna boil the hides to 50 plus mph, make it a 360.
 
That's good advice. I like the idea. I currently have a 340 but I would like to build a stout 360. I guess I'll start looking for a 360 to build and a different transmission.

Thanks a lot I appreciate it.

Porkchop
 
hell no, you already have the 340!
If you had an 727 based overdrive, and 3.91s this gets you a first gear Torque multiplication of 2.45 x 3.91=9.58, and a cruiser gear of
1.00 x3.91 x.69=2.70, and 65mph=2185rpm
If you had a 360; to get 65mph=2234rpm, about the same cruise-rpm, would require a rear gear of 2.76 and so first would be 2.45 x 2.76 =6.76
Lemmee tell you this:
With the same stall, your 360 with 6.76 will be a pitiful dog compared to the 340 with 9.58
Ok, but, you say, you don't care about hiway rpm.
Ok then, let's say you build your 340 to put out a modest 300ftlbs at 2800@WOT
Thus the 340 will put down ;
300 x 9.58=2874 ftlbs into the rear axle at 2800rpm, at WOT; right on the starting line. and the 360, to equal that, will need;
2874/6.76 =425 ftlbs. Is this doable? Yes..... but not at 2800 rpm; it will need either more stall or more gear, so again the 360/A727/2.76 combo. is a loser, to the 340/A518/3.91s.
I can manipulate the numbers all day long, to make either combo do what you want, when equipped with the 4-speed overdrive.
Ok then lets say the 360, set up the same, will get you an extra 30 ftlbs at 2800, then;
2874/330= an 8.70 first Roadgear, and 8.70/2.45=3.55s. So now they both start out at an even-steven performance capability at Zero mph.
But the 360/3.55s will cruise at 65=2873 @zero-slip, say pushing up to 3000 on the tach without a Lock-Up...... so again, the 360 loses.
The point here is that
the stinking 4-speed auto, makes the combo.

Why not then just install the overdrive behind the 360?
Well sure but;
1) that's more money? and
2) what would be your plans for the 340? and
3) in an A-body, that 9.58 starter gear is ridiculously huge for a 360.
The 3.91s are way overkill. But to run less, the 360, with a bit of a cam, is rapidly gonna lose fuel efficency at below 2200rpm, due to not being able to give it enough ignition timing. Like with 3.23s for example, 65=1800, and the First Roadgear is 3.23x 2.45=7.91. Normally this is acceptable with a modest cam, you just stall it up until it performs adequately at take-off. To get to 2873ftlbs, as before, requires;
2873/7.91=363 ftlbs so that is quite doable with a 360 .
What I'm saying, I guess, is that the 4-speed/overdrive makes the impossible, possible.
Now, let's talk about making your 340 a serious tire fryer.........
Or, we can talk about making a 360/overdrive into a stupid tire-frying combo, yet she may get fuel-mileage into the mid 20s or more. This doing of two things, with the same combo, is something that the 340 may not be able to keep up with ............

BTW
If you have a Dart, Scamp, Valiant etc, with the small tubs in the back that max out at 255 sized tires, the 360 is doubly overkill, cuz with a starter gear near 10/1 the tires will just go up in smoke. The 318 is about the right size for this A-Body ....... but the 340 makes it just that much more fun.
A fun streeter starts at a weight to power ratio of somewhere between 11 or 10 to one. So then a 318 is good to 3180 pounds, a 340 to 3400, and a 360 to 3600 pounds. If /when the ratio goes higher than ~10/1 you have to start making compromises, with either gears, stall, or cylinder pressure.
And below 9/1, is just bragging rights as to how often you gotta replace the rear tires.
The 67>69 Darts are about 3200 pounds loaded up with a V8/auto/8.75 power everything and A/C; therefore, with the driver, say a total of ~3400 pounds, this is right on 10/1 with a 340.
The power/torque of the 340 (or the 360) can be shifted down or up, as may be necessary to satisfy your need for either acceleration, or towing, or hiway fuel-efficiency. But the long-stroke 360 does not have to compromise quite as much, and has the potential of being a lil more relaxed in the doing.
Happy HotRodding.
 
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