Fuel line fittings

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71scamp78

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Ok running a new aluminum 3/8 line from mechanical pump to sending unit. What's the best way to hook new aluminum line to new 3/8 sending unit end besides just a rubber hose. Is there some kind of quick fittings they sell..first time messing with stock fuel system really.

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71scamp78 said:
Ok running a new aluminum 3/8 line from mechanical pump to sending unit. What's the best way to hook new aluminum line to new 3/8 sending unit end besides just a rubber hose. Is there some kind of quick fittings they sell..first time messing with stock fuel system really.

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Rubber hose is the preferred method. Why would you not use rubber? The only thing you should do after that is to ensure the grounding clip is attached (attaches to the metal fuel line and the metal tube on the sending unit itself).
 
Summit sells fragola, and their house brand, of hose clamp fittings to adapt braided line to a hose barb, like you have on you sending unit.
They also have aluminum tube nuts and sleeves to adapt the braided line to aluminum tube. Also have tube adapter fittings.
You will have to get the appropriate fittings for your tube and line sizes.
(3/8 line is -6 braided)
I think you will have to use stainless braid rubber line, or just regular rubber at the sender end, because of the hose barb. I (now, I've learned my lesson, lol) use nothing but teflon line now, lasts ten times as long as rubber with the gas we have now. But all my stuff now has A/N lines everywhere.
 
I would just use slip on fuel hose. Get good quality. The EFI stuff is "stiffer" Be careful clamping the aluminum
 
What I want to do is have a inverted flare on aluminum line and be able screw it into the sending unit. Just unsure what fitting would go on the sending unit to connect the two
 
71scamp78 said:
What I want to do is have a inverted flare on aluminum line and be able screw it into the sending unit. Just unsure what fitting would go on the sending unit to connect the two
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Wouldn't you then have to cut that flare off the sending unit to install the correct fitting, then re-flare it?

Why not just emulate the factory and put a bubble flare on the new fuel line, then use a short piece of rubber line?
 
mopowers said:
Wouldn't you then have to cut that flare off the sending unit to install the correct fitting, then re-flare it?

Why not just emulate the factory and put a bubble flare on the new fuel line, then use a short piece of rubber line?
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No I think there is a fitting to connect the two..worst case is I just do a rubber hose..just seeing what better options were if any
 
mopowers said:
Wouldn't you then have to cut that flare off the sending unit to install the correct fitting, then re-flare it?
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Yes. Those blue plastic clips are for late model lines that have a bead about an inch or so up the line, not a flare. To use that fitting you'd have to be able to make a bead in the tubing but even with the right tool it would be almost impossible with the bend in that short length of line.

To adapt an -AN type fitting to that pickup tube you'd have to cut the flare off the end then use a 37º flaring tool to make a new flare for the tube sleeve and nut. Then you'd need a hard line or hose end adapter to thread into that. I've done it but you need the right 37º flaring tool, can't use a regular 45º one.

Problem is like the bead mentioned above, there's not enough length left when you cut the flare. You need room to get the height of the flaring tool over the tubing and at the same time have enough clearance for the tube nut and sleeve to slide under it before the flare is made.

You could use a short length of rubber line off the pickup then get an -AN adapter with a hose barb on one end and connect to that. I try to avoid using rubber lines myself but sometimes you have to use them unless you're entire system is made with -AN fittings from the start.
 
Is suppose you could cut the flare off and solder/weld on the appropriate AN male fitting, then just use a tube nut to attach the aluminum line. What material is that pickup tube made out of?
 
Looks like I should just go the easy route with a good piece of rubber hose and some good clamps to the new aluminum line. Would really like to flare end at pump and screw it in rather than a barbed fitting and clamp. What is recommended on that end..
 
On sort of the same subject..the wire coming out if trunk which is the fuel sending unit wire for gauge it's missing the correct factory end that slides over the stud..do they reproduce those ends or is it just OK to use an eyelet and be good. Also what's best way to ground tank. Thanks for the help
 
If you don't want to use braided rubber line, tube nuts, and A/N fittings on the tank end, I would use a flair tool to put a bump in the end of the aluminum tube, and use good rubber fuel hose and clamps.
As for the mechanical pump end, it depends on what fittings you have on the pump. Are they screw in fittings that can be changed, or hose bibs that are part of the pump?
As for the push-on wire connector, I would prefer a couple nuts, an eyelet, and a lock washer.
 
71scamp78 said:
Looks like I should just go the easy route with a good piece of rubber hose and some good clamps to the new aluminum line. Would really like to flare end at pump and screw it in rather than a barbed fitting and clamp. What is recommended on that end..
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Brass NPT adapter, you can get them at any decent hardware store. Which fuel pump, Carter aftermarket, Holley etc. or OE type with hose barb fittings? If it has threaded inlet and outlet ports you'll need an adapter but if it's got a hose barb then you can only use a rubber hose.

Also, what size line are you planning to use? Factory lines are 5/16" but most aftermarket -AN fuel line fittings are going to be -6 or 3/8" nominal.

If this is all stock type stuff, just use short pieces of rubber line, makes life easier. That way you're not modifying and/or cobbling things together or spending a fortune in -AN fittings.
 
33IMP said:
If you don't want to use braided rubber line, tube nuts, and A/N fittings on the tank end, I would use a flair tool to put a bump in the end of the aluminum tube, and use good rubber fuel hose and clamps.
As for the mechanical pump end, it depends on what fittings you have on the pump. Are they screw in fittings that can be changed, or hose bibs that are part of the pump?
As for the push-on wire connector, I would prefer a couple nuts, an eyelet, and a lock washer.
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It's a carter pump so no bibs just NPT threaded holes I believe
 
The factory used a rubber hose there for a reason. The tank and body move "somewhat" together, but they are separate. The flex and move independently as well. A solid aluminum line there will crack and break. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel. It was made for a good reason.
 
RustyRatRod said:
The factory used a rubber hose there for a reason. The tank and body move "somewhat" together, but they are separate. The flex and move independently as well. A solid aluminum line there will crack and break. Stop trying to reinvent the wheel. It was made for a good reason.
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I'm just going with a rubber hose...lot less hassle, money and time. Appreciate the help for sure. Whats the best way to ground the fuel.
 
71scamp78 said:
I'm just going with a rubber hose...lot less hassle, money and time. Appreciate the help for sure. Whats the best way to ground the fuel.
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The factory method is to use a grounding clip that attaches to the sending unit barb, bridges the section of hose, and connects to the fuel line.
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HOWEVER, this is dependent upon mounting the fuel line with factory style snap in clips along it's length- if you're mounting your new line with rubber-insulated clamps or straps, you probably aren't going to get a good ground that way. In that case, I would just drill a small hole in the corner of the tank flange and run a ground strap to the frame or floor pan.
 
Professor Fate said:
The factory method is to use a grounding clip that attaches to the sending unit barb, bridges the section of hose, and connects to the fuel line.
s-l225.webp

HOWEVER, this is dependent upon mounting the fuel line with factory style snap in clips along it's length- if you're mounting your new line with rubber-insulated clamps or straps, you probably aren't going to get a good ground that way. In that case, I would just drill a small hole in the corner of the tank flange and run a ground strap to the frame or floor pan.
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Ok sounds good plenty of meat on corners.
 
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