Fuel Sender Ohms

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I8NEMO

I8NEMO

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Yeah, got the cheap fuel cell off Amazon. Fuel sender "works with 90 ohm gauge" and I get nothing. Factory sender works perfectly. Before I entertain fabbing the factory sender into this tanks side, im searching for a top fit sender that might work, how many Ohms is the factory sender?


1968 Barracuda, 340, carb. Mechanical pump

Screenshot_20230228-142824_Amazon Shopping.jpg
 
10 to 72,
10 is full
72 is empty.
23 is 1/2 tank

Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart

See post 4

The cell will need to be grounded for the sender to work correctly most likely.

You should be able to move the new sender up and down with the fuel gauge sender wire attached to the sender and a ground strap to the car body and the sender ground.


There is a device called a meter match and it probably would work for this application.

The gauge needs a curve to function correctly and the sender will be very liner.
 
Last edited:
Dana67Dart said:
10 to 72,
10 is full
72 is empty.
23 is 1/2 tank

Product Review: A100 Fuel Sender For 67 Dart

See post 4

The cell will need to be grounded for the sender to work correctly most likely.

You should be able to move the new sender up and down with the fuel gauge sender wire attached to the sender and a ground strap to the car body and the sender ground.


There is a device called a meter match and it probably would work for this application.

The gauge needs a curve to function correctly and the sender will be very liner.
Click to expand...
Thanks, the new tank sender has 2 wires going to a modern plug terminal, I cut the terminal off and ran one wire (my best guess as to which one would be negative) to ground the other to the factory sender wire and moved the float arm then repeated with wires reversed. Nada. I then hooked up the factory sender and it works fine
 
Your answer makes no sense. How did you get a factory sender into a rectangular fuel cell and get it to work at all, much less acccurately?
 
I would check resistance from tank to one sender wire then the tank to the other sender wire .

Then both sender wires.


Could be a bad sender?

I assume you have the sender out of the tank.

Take some photos of it and some close ups of the rheostat
 
Have to ask. You do have the key in the run position (or ACC)
 
Dana67Dart said:
Does the new tank have a built in fuel pump?
Click to expand...
No, and I don't need one. I found and ordered a top fit sending unit on "Tanks" with the correct ohm's and ohm orientation and an adjustable float arm to the depth I need. Thanks for your help, very informative!
 
Dana67Dart said:
I would check resistance from tank to one sender wire then the tank to the other sender wire .

Then both sender wires.


Could be a bad sender?

I assume you have the sender out of the tank.

Take some photos of it and some close ups of the rheostat
Click to expand...
Yes, sender out of tank. I had a new factory tank in with a newer sender and had been test driving, the fuel gauge worked perfectly. With all the suspension mods ive done, a leaf spring put a hole in the gas tank which got me back to my original plan of a fuel cell in the trunk. key was on. Remember, after this failed test I hooked up the old sender and watched the gauge move .

This new tank has some bad reviews on the fill cap plastic, I'll bet this sender is junk too.

20230301_095100.jpg


16776899296175842566884667697752.jpg
 
67Dart273 said:
Your answer makes no sense. How did you get a factory sender into a rectangular fuel cell and get it to work at all, much less acccurately?
Click to expand...
The new aftermarket tank is simply sitting in the trunk, before I can drive again I need to fab in a fuel filler tube from the factory fender location, fab attach points for the tank, create a working fuel sending unit and run fuel line. Right now I'm focused on the fuel sender.
I ran both fuel sender tests with the senders out of the tank
 
If the new tank sender is actually a variable resistance, then you should be able to verify that, simply, with a meter. You only have three possibilities----or or the other wire to ground, or between the two wires. If it is a resistor, which wire you ground should make no difference.

It is possible that it is NOT a resistive sender, I am not familiar with what else is out there for sensors

You have two issues if it's a resistor--one is the resistance range, and the second is the fact that original Mopar senders are not linear--reread what Dana posted for the values and you can see that.

There is an aftermarket product called "meter match" and at least one "copy" on egag and they scale non linear/ other/ innaccurate senders to match the desired meter reading
 
67Dart273 said:
If the new tank sender is actually a variable resistance, then you should be able to verify that, simply, with a meter. You only have three possibilities----or or the other wire to ground, or between the two wires. If it is a resistor, which wire you ground should make no difference.

It is possible that it is NOT a resistive sender, I am not familiar with what else is out there for sensors

You have two issues if it's a resistor--one is the resistance range, and the second is the fact that original Mopar senders are not linear--reread what Dana posted for the values and you can see that.

There is an aftermarket product called "meter match" and at least one "copy" on egag and they scale non linear/ other/ innaccurate senders to match the desired meter reading
Click to expand...
That's great info, I dont' know if the new sender is a resistive sender or what. The ohms on the new sender ; 8.5 Empty and 99 Full. I noticed on the Tanks application listing below that on some senders the low ohm side, like this new sender, is set up for empty, the reverse is required for our stuff so I don't believe there was any way this sender was going to work. I ordered the ORG below, empty ohms is about 10 ohms low but I don't think this is a big deal? I'm more interested in knowing where empty is vs full.

Tanks Application Listing:

  • SW - SW gauges - 240-33 Ohms
  • VDO - VDO gauges - 10-180 Ohms
  • GME - GM up to 1964 - 0-30 Ohms
  • GML - GM 1965 and up - 0-90 Ohms
  • ORG - Early Ford & Mopar - 73-10 Ohms
The first number of the (Ohms) represents empty and the following is for full.

For more information click here
 
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