My fuel sending unit is not functioning,Looking at replacements they are listing a few sizes. Is there a way i can figure this out with out going under the car and measuring it? It is a 75 Dart swinger 318 2bbl. Any help. I am pretty sure it has the fuel return line. Thanks for your help
Fuel sending unit replace
- Thread starter whtmontie
- Start date
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pishta
I know I'm right....
its going to be the 5/16 model. If thats what your question is.
Yes that was my question, i had someone talking to me while i was writing it.
Don't toss your old one, If you don't like the way the fuel gauge works with a replacement you may want to consider having it rebuilt. also watch the fine print, some senders or gauges require specific gauges or senders and/or instrument voltage regulators (IVR) My experience is that aftermarket ones don't have the correct non linear sending unit resistance wiring, causing the fuel gauge to read incorrectly. In my case it read ~1/4 to 1/2 till it was empty and full till it was 1/2 or there abouts. There are many treads about this issue.
Thank you. This is a very confusing fix on this car. I have seen them range in price from $22.95 to over $200. Right now it does not read anything and since i don't use the car very often i have no clue what is in the tank. The car is going for paint in the next few weeks i wanted to finish any mechanical work before that so i don't unnecessarily touch the new paint.
I sought out a NOS from a dealer. I contacted a local dealer and he was able to locate the latest part number for mine (67 Dart) and he even located a dealer for me with the last one in the US. I think it was about $150 but the gauge works correctly. Getting a newer part number is the hardest part.
There are some very cheap aftermarket senders out there. We have seen plastic floats that melt in fuel and we have seen the electrical terminal leak fuel. So first you need to know if your sender is in fact faulty or does it have a saturated float or is the fuel gauge the fault. If you do determine you need a new sender, Here's what I suggest....
Buy a decent sender at 45 to 60 usd. Per the odds, expect it to report wrong. From there you have 2 options,,, purchase and install Inteletronics metermatch module to program the sender gauge relationship or send your OEM sender out to be restored.
On a side note, I don't know if the metermatch module retains its calibration points if/when the battery is disconnected.
Restored OEM sender is with out a doubt the best option but the turn around time might be 6 weeks. A aftermarket sender will be a quick fix providing some clue of how much fuel you have.
Buy a decent sender at 45 to 60 usd. Per the odds, expect it to report wrong. From there you have 2 options,,, purchase and install Inteletronics metermatch module to program the sender gauge relationship or send your OEM sender out to be restored.
On a side note, I don't know if the metermatch module retains its calibration points if/when the battery is disconnected.
Restored OEM sender is with out a doubt the best option but the turn around time might be 6 weeks. A aftermarket sender will be a quick fix providing some clue of how much fuel you have.
Last edited:
pishta
I know I'm right....
Also if your handy with a soldering iron, you may be able to diagnose and fix your old one. The one I pulled had the pointer/contact on the rheostat rotted off. I could have soldered a new finger onto it and it would probably have worked again but the sock was stuffed with rust and I had already ordered a new one. Its just transformer style wire wrapped around a frame and a swinging contactor as well as a float.
66jim
Well-Known Member
I installed a spectra unit, would not recommend, it "works" as
you can tell there is gas in the tank . Accurate hell no. I would
start by checking the wiring and gauge, ground the wire to chassis for a few seconds should sent fuel gauge past full or install
a 10 0hm resistor between the sending unit wire and chassis
grounds with alligator clips and read the gauge should read to
the full mark.
If this test passes then remove the sending unit and examine
it for damage especially the wire wound resistor, If it looks
OK, I would clean the sending unit in a ultra sonic bath. My
local small engine repair shop has one used to clean carbs an
small parts they may help you out.
you can tell there is gas in the tank . Accurate hell no. I would
start by checking the wiring and gauge, ground the wire to chassis for a few seconds should sent fuel gauge past full or install
a 10 0hm resistor between the sending unit wire and chassis
grounds with alligator clips and read the gauge should read to
the full mark.
If this test passes then remove the sending unit and examine
it for damage especially the wire wound resistor, If it looks
OK, I would clean the sending unit in a ultra sonic bath. My
local small engine repair shop has one used to clean carbs an
small parts they may help you out.
It is definitely the sending unit. I have grounded out the gauge and it did move to full. I might go wiith a cheap sending unit just to get one in and send out the OEM unit.
Im leaning to replacing it with a cheap unit and fix the old one.
It is the Sending unit for sure.I might replace it with a cheap unit and fix the OEM unit. I just need to find out how much gas is in the tank and what size fittings i have on the sending unit.
There aren't any "fittings", just 5/16 hose over tubing with clamps.
There's a ground jumper over the rubber hose also which connects the sender to chassis ground. This little jewel or the lack of it can disable a sender also.
There's a ground jumper over the rubber hose also which connects the sender to chassis ground. This little jewel or the lack of it can disable a sender also.
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