Fuel tank sending unit

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Technically it can, but the gauge won't read correctly. Bend the arm so that when the tank is almost empty, the gauge indicates empty. It will just stay on full forever, and then start rapidly dropping once the level gets low enough to move the float. It's what I've done in the past so I knew if I had gas or not.
I don't understand this comment. Getting the gage to read empty when it is empty doesn’t compensate for proper operation.
 
Also made a calibration box that will work on oil, gas and temperature senders to show low medium and high ( empty, half, full) also available for loan

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No, but it can keep you from walkin. lol
So can just carrying a gas can in my trunk or making sure I keep the tank full. This is the problem with the garbage made today. People tolerate and accept poorly built items that either fail,don't fit or don't work correctly rather than refusing to buy them and complaing to the manufacturers and boycotting the item. Why reward them by buying junk?
I understand trying to make the best of the situation,but in the end we all lose because the manufacturers arent addressing the problem and correcting it. We shouldnt have to settle for this and have a "its better than nothing" attitude. They could have designed these coreectly. its completely inexcusable that they wouldn't put the care into manufacturing a part that fits and functions as it's supposed to.
 
I don't understand this comment. Getting the gage to read empty when it is empty doesn’t compensate for proper operation.
I agree. It's a defective product and people shouldn't have to settle for this.
Guess I'm just going to look for an nos or rebuilt Original.
 
So can just carrying a gas can in my trunk or making sure I keep the tank full. This is the problem with the garbage made today. People tolerate and accept poorly built items that either fail,don't fit or don't work correctly rather than refusing to buy them and complaing to the manufacturers and boycotting the item. Why reward them by buying junk?
I understand trying to make the best of the situation,but in the end we all lose because the manufacturers arent addressing the problem and correcting it. We shouldnt have to settle for this and have a "its better than nothing" attitude. They could have designed these coreectly. its completely inexcusable that they wouldn't put the care into manufacturing a part that fits and functions as it's supposed to.
With some things, we don't have a choice. Not everyone is a guru and can disassemble and repair everything under the sun.
 
So can just carrying a gas can in my trunk or making sure I keep the tank full. This is the problem with the garbage made today. People tolerate and accept poorly built items that either fail,don't fit or don't work correctly rather than refusing to buy them and complaing to the manufacturers and boycotting the item. Why reward them by buying junk?
I understand trying to make the best of the situation,but in the end we all lose because the manufacturers arent addressing the problem and correcting it. We shouldnt have to settle for this and have a "its better than nothing" attitude. They could have designed these coreectly. its completely inexcusable that they wouldn't put the care into manufacturing a part that fits and functions as it's supposed to.
It doesn't do any good. One of the smaller companies that sell a sender, I called them to ask who makes it. The guy said they were made in house. When I asked if they were the correct non-linear, he said he's never heard of that, it's not a thing, and that I have no clue what I'm talking about. Even after explaining, he refused to believe it, and just kept saying I was wrong. I refused to buy it from them because I didn't feel like he would let me return it when it turned out to still be like all of the other ones. The Australian unit is the only one I've found that works almost perfectly. I'm sure my gauge isn't exactly calibrated correctly, but when it gets close to empty, it takes what you would expect to fill it back up.
 
With some things, we don't have a choice. Not everyone is a guru and can disassemble and repair everything under the sun.
I understand what you're saying,and I admire the folks here for trying to work around it,but it just disgusts me that so much of these aftermarket parts today are junk,and that we as a society have become apathetic and accepting of things that are cheaply made and don't function as they should,that its become normal. How many times do these smartphone companies release software with serious bugs in it,or automakers making cars with transmissions that fail at 20k miles. It's our hard earned money. In the "old days" companies cared much more. Most of the parts from the auto parts store are defective right out of the box I once went through 2 alternators before I got a good one. Even the repair shops are often incompetent. I paid to have a generator rebuilt for one of my 50's cars and it came back DOA. Had to drive back down to the shop,the guy put it on the bench and tested it and said "sorry,my guy is supposed to test them before the go out".
Anyway,I just think it's sad that folks here have to come up with all these work arounds and compromises just because the folks who make these parts are lazy and apathetic. You'd think people involved in reproducing these parts would love these cars and share our passion. Sadly that doesn't seem to be the case very often.
 
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It doesn't do any good. One of the smaller companies that sell a sender, I called them to ask who makes it. The guy said they were made in house. When I asked if they were the correct non-linear, he said he's never heard of that, it's not a thing, and that I have no clue what I'm talking about. Even after explaining, he refused to believe it, and just kept saying I was wrong. I refused to buy it from them because I didn't feel like he would let me return it when it turned out to still be like all of the other ones. The Australian unit is the only one I've found that works almost perfectly. I'm sure my gauge isn't exactly calibrated correctly, but when it gets close to empty, it takes what you would expect to fill it back up.
You would think the makers would read these forums..maybe you should send the guy who you were trying to explain the problem too a link to some of the numerous threads here where people are complaining about these senders. Im just going to buy the Aussie sender since you say it works. I will say that I've been really impressed with the work I've seen people in Denmark,Sweden,Finland,Australia put into making parts that nobody else would make because it's not "profitable" enough. Especially for the finned mopars.
I'm curious though,why was there a long and short arm version of these senders? Did the tanks change from 1967-1969 to 1970 and later?
 
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I need one for my 68. My question is why should anyone have to monkey around bending a senders float arm and settling for a gauge that will not function the way it did from the factory and will suddenly drop like a rock and read somewhat correctly again when empty? There is no excuse why any of these companies couldn't have put the care into making a sender that would fit and function correctly for these cars.
I was hoping that these Australian senders would be the answer to this problem and function correctly. The original poster says they do. I sure hope if I shell out nearly $200 for one it will.
Weren't these guages for these Darts made by Stewart Warner for Chrysler? I'm not sure about the 60's but I believe they were in the late 1950's. I remember seeing that somewhere.
Just noticed your question on a gas tank sender unit thread.
As an Aussie I can tell you that the gauges for the "Chrysler Valiant" hardtop in Australia (read Darts for USA) used VDO Gauges, and the VDO senders are not compatible with my '66 Barracuda that was imported 25 years ago from California.
Just FYI

Gary
 
Also made a calibration box that will work on oil, gas and temperature senders to show low medium and high ( empty, half, full) also available for loan

View attachment 1716229766
There are also "Meter Match" units like yours, to calibrate that re-pop sender closer to accurate. It won't be perfect but at least when it get's close to empty on the gauge you know you are about to run out. Solved with a Meter Match Fuel Tank Sending Unit/Fuel Float Adjustmet

In a perfect world, the aftermarket would make a close to original copy and it would fit and work perfect. They could but they don't. As long as it fits and works reasonably well is good enough for them. We are just lucky to have a replacement. I wonder if the Chevy guys have the same issue?
 
I have a meter match on my car & it works great. It calibrates at 4 points, empty, 1/4, 3/4 and full. Based on gas refills, I think it is accurate within a gallon or two. You can also set where empty is, so you can give yourself as much margin to walking as you want. The only bad news is that they seem to have doubled in price or more since I bought mine 5 years ago or so.

My little box is only meant to check the operation of the gauge.

I also made one to calibrate a meter match with the four set points, also available for loan.

IMG_0774.jpeg
 
Just noticed your question on a gas tank sender unit thread.
As an Aussie I can tell you that the gauges for the "Chrysler Valiant" hardtop in Australia (read Darts for USA) used VDO Gauges, and the VDO senders are not compatible with my '66 Barracuda that was imported 25 years ago from California.
Just FYI

Gary
Well, I bought one that said it was for an AP6 Valiant, and it made the gauge work correctly.
 
Well, I bought one that said it was for an AP6 Valiant, and it made the gauge work correctly.
Amazing.

I bought a Sprectra tank from Rockauto and a sender at the same time, thinking that they would fit and match.
Tank is perfect but I have gas to just below the sender hole and no reading at the fuel gauge.

I don't know what reading I should have at the gauge, but surely something????
 
Amazing.

I bought a Sprectra tank from Rockauto and a sender at the same time, thinking that they would fit and match.
Tank is perfect but I have gas to just below the sender hole and no reading at the fuel gauge.

I don't know what reading I should have at the gauge, but surely something????
Measuring with an ohm meter, it is 10ohms full, 78ohms empty. 28ohms is roughly half a tank if I remember correctly. The replacement senders you buy from anyone, Spectra included, are generally 0-100ohms and are linear. They will not work the gauge correctly. As stated, your gauge with that sender will read empty when there is still 8 gallons in the tank. You will have to use jumper wires and sit in the car watching the gauge and bend the arm so it reads empty kinda close to right. It will just stay on full for a long time and then start rapidly dropping. It's what I had done in the past before finding this unit from Plum Krazy Garage. I'm sure other Australian companies sell it too, they're just the one I was led to. Although pricey, I ordered it, put it in, and with no "adjustments" it works. Empty is empty, full is full, and half is half. I have since sold the car I put it in, but should I get another A-body, I will be ordering another one of these if I need it. I've since discovered how awesome F-body cars are and am now playing with those.
 
Well, I bought one that said it was for an AP6 Valiant, and it made the gauge work correctly.
Do want to share what the unit looks liek or where you ordered it from?
And was this for a '76 or an earlier model. I ask because there seems to have been at one change over the production years.
 

Do want to share what the unit looks liek or where you ordered it from?
And was this for a '76 or an earlier model. I ask because there seems to have been at one change over the production years.
It looks like every other modern replacement. I also no longer have the car. But, the picture of the box in the first post has the part number and where I purchased it from on it. Should be 1963-1976 like the factory unit.
 
It looks like every other modern replacement. I also no longer have the car. But, the picture of the box in the first post has the part number and where I purchased it from on it. Should be 1963-1976 like the factory unit.
OK. Thanks.The ohms sounds right and it worked for your car, but its short arm. At least on the 67 to early 70s cars, those all show full until down to about 3/4 of a tank.
 
Measuring with an ohm meter, it is 10ohms full, 78ohms empty. 28ohms is roughly half a tank if I remember correctly. The replacement senders you buy from anyone, Spectra included, are generally 0-100ohms and are linear. They will not work the gauge correctly. As stated, your gauge with that sender will read empty when there is still 8 gallons in the tank. You will have to use jumper wires and sit in the car watching the gauge and bend the arm so it reads empty kinda close to right. It will just stay on full for a long time and then start rapidly dropping. It's what I had done in the past before finding this unit from Plum Krazy Garage. I'm sure other Australian companies sell it too, they're just the one I was led to. Although pricey, I ordered it, put it in, and with no "adjustments" it works. Empty is empty, full is full, and half is half. I have since sold the car I put it in, but should I get another A-body, I will be ordering another one of these if I need it. I've since discovered how awesome F-body cars are and am now playing with those.
Tank you for explaining all of that, I would like to look into it.
Good luck with your F body :thumbsup:
 
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